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BC 30 reverb questions


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I picked up my bc 30 last year, and it arrived with a reverb spring broken (unbeknownst to me at the time). After thinking that perhaps this model just had lousy reverb, I started checking around in this forum and others to see what the consensus was. I found the term 'spongy or mushy' to be a common descriptor, but nobody said 'lousy' or 'pathetic', so I assumed there were electronic problems. I installed a comparable tank, and couldn't believe how poor the reverb sounded. I changed tubes 3 and 5 as advised on another thread on this forum - no better. I found a replacement Belton tank from another unit and installed that- no better. In short, I'd have to classify the reverb more as "why bother." It was only a tiny bit better than when it was broken. It's less effective than a fender reverb deluxe set on 1. Is that the way they are, or do I need to keep looking for a problem elsewhere than the tank and tubes? Other user's take on this would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks.

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I'd say you've still got a problem somewhere - the reverb should definitely be very effective as you turn it up.

 

Much appreciated, wiggy. I don't know anyone else with a BC 30, and I've encountered amps with horribly weak reverbs, so it was all guess work up until now. Not being much of an 'electronics' person, what should be the next item in the chain to check? Anyone got suggestions?

 

Thanks

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Reverb tanks for a SS reverb have a different impedence than one for a tube reverb, and it sounds a lot like you have replaced it with the wrong type.

 

Actually, the sound is very much like the few SS reverbs I've heard, which were all pathetically weak. Unfortunately, I'm sure I've got the right tanks going from the threads spread around this section of the forum and an Epi tech support technician. I wish I didn't because it would be simpler than opening up the guts and replacing components. The present Belkin is a BL2AB1C1D. I tried the first replacement unit from another maker, a 4AB3C1B (knowing the "3" variation was "long delay" vs. short, and the 4 was their comparable to the Belkin 2).

 

I didn't consider a bad pot, however, and I'll have to give that a test. I've never had one go bad when building guitars, so I just never thought of the possibility of a bad one, I guess.

 

It's an overall disappointment because it arrived this way, and it was a free upgrade, compensation for a brand new defective amp (different model) from a major retailer. During this reverb fix process I discoverd that it was probably a return, and perhaps one without the problems resolved because the reverb bag had a couple sets of perforations per screw, which tells me somebody else replaced or at least removed and reinserted the reverb tank before, and it's still not working. I'm well out of the one year warranty now, and when searching for the replacement tank, I discovered that the responses about this amp from the 'Gibson Authorized' vendors I was referred to was pathetic. One told me there was no comparable tanks available for that model. Another told me they didn't have access to the schematic. Another dealer just ignored my email requests for parts info until I phoned twice. They passed me on to a very pleasant lady who took my information and never bothered to get back to me. If it weren't for this forum and the BC 30 threads, and the kindness of an Epi technician, I would never have gotten off ground zero. To be honest, if I didn't love the sound of the amp, particuclarly with the twelve-strings, I wouldn't be dealing with either Gibson or Epiphone anymore. Love their product and tech support has been great to me, but it seems that the dealer network is overdue for an overhaul....and once you're out of warranty, the dealer network is all you have to rely on. Has it been this tough on others to get parts/service on this model?

 

Hope y'all will excuse the venting, but it is frustrating. Time to get out the schematic, search the threads again to find that info on draining the charge from the caps, and get ready to become an unoffciail junior uncertified amp tech apprentice. I'll run the ohm meter on the control pot and if that doesn't resolve it, I'll be back asking for more informal tech support. Hell, I might even get a little wild and clip one of those recommended caps in the chain and make my first 'user approved' mod (is that where "decapitation" comes from??). These forums really are an important resource for us folk that don't delve deeply into the electronics! "Thanks" to all the vets that take the time here.

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If I get a chance I'll knock up a quick mp3 of my BC30 with the reverb going from off to full on to give you a benchmark. Might not be able to do it til tomorrow though.

 

The other thing which occured to me is that the reverb can be switched on and off from the footswitch so if there's a bad earth somewhere between the footswitch socket and the board it might be bleeding off the signal (i.e running 90% switched off). Someone more knowlegable will probably correct me on this one though.

 

Other areas to check are the valve sockets themselves - if one of them has a problem then it won't matter what valves or tank you use the problem will still be there.

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I have a BC-30, and the reverb is plenty strong --- at full level it's right up there in **** Dale Surf-drenched territory.

 

Here's a possibility to test wiggy's theory --- does the reverb footswitch effectively turn the reverb on and off? There may be a problem with the footswitch control or jack circuit. I've seen cases with other amps where the footswitch was set to off, then disconnected, which left the manual knob control pretty much useless. Ideally, disconnecting the footswitch should automatically set the reverb to "on" so the manual knob is active, but if that circuit is bad, it can behave as you've described.

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I have a BC-30, and the reverb is plenty strong --- at full level it's right up there in **** Dale Surf-drenched territory.

 

Here's a possibility to test wiggy's theory --- does the reverb footswitch effectively turn the reverb on and off? There may be a problem with the footswitch control or jack circuit. I've seen cases with other amps where the footswitch was set to off, then disconnected, which left the manual knob control pretty much useless. Ideally, disconnecting the footswitch should automatically set the reverb to "on" so the manual knob is active, but if that circuit is bad, it can behave as you've described.

 

Hopefully, I'll have time to get into it again this weekend. This dad blasted 'making a living' is really starting to interfere with my art and music. Anybody got some surefire lottery numbers?

 

I'll post results as I get 'em. The responses are all appreciated.

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