Epi Casino bridge height

[Casino4Life]

I replaced the bridge on my '05 MIK Casino about a year ago and have noticed recently the intonation is off, I like a low action but I think it's to low causing buzzing and chords that sounded clean before don't sound as clean. What is the correct bridge height or action? Trying to donut my self, help would be appreciated

[tweed2]

C4L. I checked my '01 Casino, that just came back from my luthier, after getting it's bi-annual set up. I can tell you the height that he set my bridge at, but I don't know how much that will help, as neck set angle, neck relief (I don't use too much), string gauge, vary from guitar to guitar and will affect it. The top of the E saddles are both at exactly 11/16" off the body. What's probably more relevant is the string height at the last fret and/or 12th fret. I find that most of my guitars are right around this same setting, for what I consider a medium low action. Using a feeler gauge, the Bass E has .07 inch clear at the last fret and .085-.09 at the High E. Same places at the 12th fret show about .005 less. Might be a weird way to check it, but I find automotive feeler gauges are cheap and pretty accurate. As far as the intonation, it sounds like you may need to adjust the saddles. First things first. Hope this helps or at least gives you a good starting point.

[Casino4Life]

As always tweed good advice

[Spamonkis]

I replaced the bridge on my '05 MIK Casino about a year ago and have noticed recently the intonation is off, I like a low action but I think it's to low causing buzzing and chords that sounded clean before don't sound as clean. What is the correct bridge height or action? Trying to donut my self, help would be appreciated

 

It sounds like you are due for a full set up. Any luthier (guitar repairmen) can do it for you, but most of it is doable yourself if you are handy. Here is how it is done:

 

1. Check/ Adjust the truss rod: Check the neck relief by holding the "E" string down at the first fret with your fretting hand and at the same time, fretting the same string at an upper fret (in the area where the neck joins the body) with the pinky of your picking hand. As you hold the string down at these two points, use the thumb of your picking hand to press down at the mid-point of the fretted section of string. There should be a very slight space (movement) between the string and the fret. Check this for both "E" strings with all strings tuned to pitch. If they are not the about the same, the best you will be able to do is to get the straightest side set ideally, and the other side will have a bit more bow and have higher action. If there is a space clearly visible with the naked eye, the truss rod probably needs to be tightened to straighten the neck (Exactly how straight you want it has a bit to do with personal preference). If there is no space at all, the neck may be back bowed and need the truss rod loosened. Either way, go SLOWLY! I usually adjust and re-check with 1/8- 1/4 of a turn. After each quarter turn, I wait about 15 minutes to be sure the neck is settled in, then re-check the action.

2. Level/ Polish the frets: This requires special tools and is not needed in most cases, so we will skip it. If you really want this done, take it to a pro.

3. Adjust the bridge height: In general, set it as low as you can without buzz/ poor tone. The bass side will usually be a bit higher than the treble side to allow for the larger arc of the vibrating string. How low you can get it will have a lot to do with your playing technique (a heavy picking hand usually requires higher action). Set it, play, adjust, until it is right.

4. Adjust intonation. Tune a string. Play the 12th fret harmonic (it will be in tune with the open string) and then the 12th fret fretted note. If the fretted note is sharp. move the bridge saddle back (away from the nut), if it is flat, move the bridge saddle toward the nut. Re-tune the string and check again. Go until the fretted note and harmonic are the same. Do this for all strings.

That's about it. A couple of tips: Be sure you have a good set of tuning keys. A set of Grovers can be had for under $50 delivered to your door! 10 minutes to put them on (one screw per tuner) Why deal with the frustration of tuners that won't hold. Also, buy a tube of powdered graphite (lock lubricant, you can get it at Wal-Mart for a couple of bucks). Put a spot of graphite powder on each string saddle of the bridge and each string slot in the nut. This will keep the strings from hanging and slipping as you fine tune.

 

God bless, Spamonkis

[tweed2]

It sounds like you are due for a full set up. Any luthier (guitar repairmen) can do it for you, but most of it is doable yourself if you are handy. Here is how it is done:

 

1. Check/ Adjust the truss rod: Check the neck relief by holding the "E" string down at the first fret with your fretting hand and at the same time, fretting the same string at an upper fret (in the area where the neck joins the body) with the pinky of your picking hand. As you hold the string down at these two points, use the thumb of your picking hand to press down at the mid-point of the fretted section of string. There should be a very slight space (movement) between the string and the fret. Check this for both "E" strings with all strings tuned to pitch. If they are not the about the same, the best you will be able to do is to get the straightest side set ideally, and the other side will have a bit more bow and have higher action. If there is a space clearly visible with the naked eye, the truss rod probably needs to be tightened to straighten the neck (Exactly how straight you want it has a bit to do with personal preference). If there is no space at all, the neck may be back bowed and need the truss rod loosened. Either way, go SLOWLY! I usually adjust and re-check with 1/8- 1/4 of a turn. After each quarter turn, I wait about 15 minutes to be sure the neck is settled in, then re-check the action.

2. Level/ Polish the frets: This requires special tools and is not needed in most cases, so we will skip it. If you really want this done, take it to a pro.

3. Adjust the bridge height: In general, set it as low as you can without buzz/ poor tone. The bass side will usually be a bit higher than the treble side to allow for the larger arc of the vibrating string. How low you can get it will have a lot to do with your playing technique (a heavy picking hand usually requires higher action). Set it, play, adjust, until it is right.

4. Adjust intonation. Tune a string. Play the 12th fret harmonic (it will be in tune with the open string) and then the 12th fret fretted note. If the fretted note is sharp. move the bridge saddle back (away from the nut), if it is flat, move the bridge saddle toward the nut. Re-tune the string and check again. Go until the fretted note and harmonic are the same. Do this for all strings.

That's about it. A couple of tips: Be sure you have a good set of tuning keys. A set of Grovers can be had for under $50 delivered to your door! 10 minutes to put them on (one screw per tuner) Why deal with the frustration of tuners that won't hold. Also, buy a tube of powdered graphite (lock lubricant, you can get it at Wal-Mart for a couple of bucks). Put a spot of graphite powder on each string saddle of the bridge and each string slot in the nut. This will keep the strings from hanging and slipping as you fine tune.

 

God bless, Spamonkis

Hey, your pretty smart for a new guy. Very eloquently put, sir. Welcome aboard, stick around. As always, here's your forum-warming present. +1