surfpup Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 So I am thinking about replacing my stock Nashville bridge and stock tailpiece with the Faber Tone-Lok stuff. To do it right, I have to remove the seats for the bridge posts and then tap and install new ABR type studs. Not too worried about doing this, just wondering if anyone her has done so and what the tonal results were. Thanks in advance for any info you can provide. Here is the installation with pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom99SS Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 You may want to look into Callaham Nashville conversion posts. No drilling required and allows one to us any type ABR-II bridge. I had a TonePros AVR-II bridge and installed it with no issues onto these conversion posts. This helped the tone, sustain and the vibration you feel through the guitar has been enhanced. The Faber system requires you to drill into the guitar so this mod cannot be undone. Plus if I remember correctly the Faber bridge is pre-slotted so you are stuck with their string spacing. Also, the new Faber conversion posts are a new 2 piece design so I really do not see the great benefit it has over the original Nashville bushings. The older one piece posts where better IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfpup Posted December 19, 2010 Author Share Posted December 19, 2010 Thanks, Tom. I appreciate the wisdom. There is a Faber kit that does not require tapping as well. Their suggestion is that part of the benefit of the tapping method is eliminating (rather than converting) the Nashville bushings. I will check out the Callaham stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfpup Posted January 4, 2011 Author Share Posted January 4, 2011 The Callaham bridges look great - though expensive. I know their stuff is excellent. A friend who is a pro in Nashville won't use anything but Callaham bridges on his Strats. Callaham doesn't offer tailpieces anyway, so I ordered the Faber tailpiece, and it arrived today. It really is super light! We will see if it makes a tonal difference or not. I may even try to record before and after samples so that I can really compare and be objective. Later I will contemplate by bridge choice - Faber or Callaham. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigKahune Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 Surfpup - Interesting project. Please keep us updated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfpup Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 So I installed the Faber Tone-Lok bridge and I am happy with the results. Subtle but noticeable improvement IMHO. I posted the before and after sound recordings in the lounge yesterday but forgot I had started this thread previously. I think the next step might be the Callaham bridge you recommended, Tom. They are expensive but nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swleary Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Surfpup, I really like the look of your stock bridge and tail piece ...that look so sexy...I want :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfpup Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 Surfpup, I really like the look of your stock bridge and tail piece ...that look so sexy...I want :) I'll sell them to you butt cheap! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom99SS Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 I think the next step might be the Callaham bridge you recommended, Tom. They are expensive but nice. Surf at least try their Nashville conversion posts. That is all I have with a TonePros AVR-II bridge. There conversion posts are one piece and are a snug fit. Plus they are only $18. I even think you can use them with your Faber bridge (especially if it is a locking bridge). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfpup Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 Surf at least try their Nashville conversion posts. That is all I have with a TonePros AVR-II bridge. There conversion posts are one piece and are a snug fit. Plus they are only $18. I even think you can use them with your Faber bridge (especially if it is a locking bridge). Good point. If I'm not going to dive into actually tapping out the maple top for bridge studs, the Callaham studs are the way to go. Do you like the TonePros bridge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom99SS Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Good point. If I'm not going to dive into actually tapping out the maple top for bridge studs, the Callaham studs are the way to go. Do you like the TonePros bridge? Yes. The AVR-II is very solid, nice tone and intonation, and it also has the brass saddles which are nickel plated like the Faber. I really like this combo (Callaham Nasville conversion posts and TonePros AVR-II bridge). The reason I did not go for the Callaham bridge is I had read reviews that it made guitars brighter which I did not want. Of course every guitar is different but I also had an AVR-II already unopened. Every guitar is different and responses differently to mods but this setup along with the Gotoh lightweight tailpiece and TonePros steel locking studs really gives me a really nice sound. Good luck with your mods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfpup Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 Yes. The AVR-II is very solid, nice tone and intonation, and it also has the brass saddles which are nickel plated like the Faber. I really like this combo (Callaham Nasville conversion posts and TonePros AVR-II bridge). The reason I did not go for the Callaham bridge is I had read reviews that it made guitars brighter which I did not want. Of course every guitar is different but I also had an AVR-II already unopened. Every guitar is different and responses differently to mods but this setup along with the Gotoh lightweight tailpiece and TonePros steel locking studs really gives me a really nice sound. Good luck with your mods. Thanks, Tom. I appreciate the info. Update: I just ordered a few sets of the Callaham ABR conversion studs. (why pay $7 in shipping for one $18 part, right?) I figure I'll be wanting to upgrade my other Gibsons too. I think I will try the Faber bridge first. Then maybe try the TonePros on the next one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom99SS Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Thanks, Tom. I appreciate the info. Update: I just ordered a few sets of the Callaham ABR conversion studs. (why pay $7 in shipping for one $18 part, right?) I figure I'll be wanting to upgrade my other Gibsons too. I think I will try the Faber bridge first. Then maybe try the TonePros on the next one. If you have any questions installing the Callaham conversion posts let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfpup Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 If you have any questions installing the Callaham conversion posts let me know. Thanks. I have a bushing puller. Looks like the new ones just tap in (with a metal tube of course to protect the threads). At least I won't have to tap threads with these like I would with the Faber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom99SS Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Thanks. I have a bushing puller. Looks like the new ones just tap in (with a metal tube of course to protect the threads). At least I won't have to tap threads with these like I would with the Faber. I just used my smallest 1/4 drive deep well socket upside down and tapped them in. They send you a black plastic tube to put over the threads so I put that on then the deep well socket. Worked like a champ. Good luck and let us know how it turns out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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