Some advice please

[Trance]

Hi Folks

 

I've just acquired a 1995 Korean Epi LP (see piccies below). I got it very cheap and whilst it is perfectly playable, I'd like to address a few issues with it and have a few questions you might be able to assist me with. I plan to use the guitar as a bit of a workhorse and long term project.

 

 

It has a couple of bad guages (to the wood) on the back which I intend to dress. Can anyone confirm which lacquer was used? - I'm assuming it's a urethane.

 

The wiring is a bit 'tired' and I'd like to replace it with something reasonable - but not too expensive, in keeping with the value of the guitar. I've seen some cheap rigs from China (about $20) and some expensive Gibson/USA proprietary ones (about $140)- I'd like something more in the $50 mark. I only paid £60 ($90) for the guitar, so do not want to go overboard. Any thoughts? I'm happy to build a new wiring loom from components if need be.

 

Is the Epi LP designed with any particular(optimal)string size in mind? I replaced the, very old strings with some 9/42s but the guitar action doesn't seem as playable now. It played brilliantly with the old strings (which is why I was attracted to it). Bear in mind I'm a novice player.

 

Any other lowish cost upgrades you'd recommend? Quite happy with the pups - the guitar has a good tone. The bridge has seen better days but seems serviceable.

 

Thank in advance for any suggestions.

 

Nb - I'm based in the South of England.

 

 

[Old Rocker 59]

As far as the wiring is concerned , your best bet would be to go to www.stewmac.com . They cover just about everything to do with guitar repair . Or you could always look on E-Bay as well.

I would also get a new cover for the pickup switch . Concerning the string guage , I use 10-46 on my LP Goth Studio and they add more tone IMO.

[milod]

I think there are two factors on string gauge on an acoustic, and three on an electric.

 

1. How do you play? Some gauges, types (round versus flatwound, etc.) and brands will "work" better for you and your playing style than others.

 

2. Setup will change a bit with different gauges and/or tensions on strings. That also will make a difference on how the guitar even feels to play. "Setup" means how the neck is set with the torsion bar inside it, and the bridge height.

 

Each of us, too, has a different preference on both strings and setup. I personally prefer very light strings, mostly 9-42, but one solidbody has worn 8-38 since I bought it new in the mid '70s. Usually - but not always - the lighter string player has a gentler touch and/or plays more closely to the bridge whether with a pick or fingers. It is a different feel. It's not objectively "right" or "wrong" excepting how you play.

 

3. On a straight-out electric, the setup of the pickups in relation to the strings will make a difference in the sound of the guitar through an amp.

 

As for the wiring, I'm assuming you're in the UK. You may wanna get into the "lounge" area of the forum as well as here and ask where such material may be best purchased domestically.

 

As for messes on the back... that'd be the least of my own concerns.

 

m

[Trance]

I think there are two factors on string gauge on an acoustic, and three on an electric.

 

1. How do you play? Some gauges, types (round versus flatwound, etc.) and brands will "work" better for you and your playing style than others.

 

2. Setup will change a bit with different gauges and/or tensions on strings. That also will make a difference on how the guitar even feels to play. "Setup" means how the neck is set with the torsion bar inside it, and the bridge height.

 

Each of us, too, has a different preference on both strings and setup. I personally prefer very light strings, mostly 9-42, but one solidbody has worn 8-38 since I bought it new in the mid '70s. Usually - but not always - the lighter string player has a gentler touch and/or plays more closely to the bridge whether with a pick or fingers. It is a different feel. It's not objectively "right" or "wrong" excepting how you play.

 

3. On a straight-out electric, the setup of the pickups in relation to the strings will make a difference in the sound of the guitar through an amp.

 

As for the wiring, I'm assuming you're in the UK. You may wanna get into the "lounge" area of the forum as well as here and ask where such material may be best purchased domestically.

 

As for messes on the back... that'd be the least of my own concerns.

 

m

 

 

Hi and thanks for your reply

 

I'm reasonably well practised at setting up actions (including the trussrod) but seem to find it easier to get the action low with slightly heavier strings on my LPs (less so on Strats). My fingers, however, prefer lights, especially for barre chords (which I'm still trying to master).

 

I've only ever used 'normal round' strings so I don't know whether I'd find the other types more comfortable.

 

And, I agree, the messy bit on the back isn't a great concern - but I enjoy tinkering and trying to restore finishes. Luckily the front of the guitar looks pretty cool.

 

Frets are a bit worn so will need dressing soon - but don't seem to affect the playability.

[amx05462]

my question would be if you like the sound of the guitar then why change the wiring? that being said check ebay they have any kind of wiring you want from modern to the old cloth covered and the braided metal covered wires and all the capacitors and pots. if i liked it as it is sound wise and your having no problems with tone or volume pots.. why mess with it? just get the pickup switch knob and enjoy it. as to your strings. if the action seems lower with the 9s then most likely you had heavier strings . 11s. but if thats the case just back the truss rod nut off 1/4 turn and try that.

[Trance]

my question would be if you like the sound of the guitar then why change the wiring? that being said check ebay they have any kind of wiring you want from modern to the old cloth covered and the braided metal covered wires and all the capacitors and pots. if i liked it as it is sound wise and your having no problems with tone or volume pots.. why mess with it? just get the pickup switch knob and enjoy it. as to your strings. if the action seems lower with the 9s then most likely you had heavier strings . 11s. but if thats the case just back the truss rod nut off 1/4 turn and try that.

 

 

Hi, thanks for that.

 

There is an intermittent fault with a wire shorting out (and killing one humbucker - very hard to isolate, even with a meter - but not enough wire left to strip it back without it disappearing into the guitar. I may just replace the wires and keep the pots/capacitor.

 

I did notice that this guitar uses 'A' pots for volume controls and 'B' pots for tone - I'd have expected them to be the other way around. It means that all the tone variation is in the 1st quarter turn of the knob. Was this usual on these LPs or has someone wired it wrongly? If so I will swap them around and replace all the wires. Not that it matters that much - still seems to do the job OK.

 

I've still got the old strings - I shall have to get the micrometer out and measure them.

 

Was I right in assuming it has a urethane finish?

[mcgruff]

If you're replacing electrics, CTS or Bourns pots, Sprague orange drop caps, and Switchcraft or Neutrik jacks & switches are all good quality components.

 

I just got a bunch of stuff from Mouser (who either deliver to the UK or have a base here) and Audiospares including Bourns push-pulls to do the Jimmy Page wiring scheme (adds coil splits, series/parallel and out-of-phase options). Prices seemed very good. I went for 500k audio taper pots and 0.015 caps. When I measured them, the pots were actually 522, 502, 486, 479 and 459. That's why I ordered the extra one - the 459k pot will be set aside.

 

Are you sure the pups are OK? I think you might have epi's 57CH(G) buckers which are very muddy and characterless (pull the pickups and check underneath).

 

I'd recommend winding your own if you're up for it. Magnet wire is very fragile but you soon get the hang of it so long as you can work carefully and patiently. My own dot came with 57CH(G) mudbuckers and even my first attempt at pickup winding was a huge improvement on that with much better attack, bite and character.

[Ed Zeplin]

A general rule of thumb for me is 10-46 or -52 for Gibson scale length of 24-3/4" and 9-42 or -46 for Fender scale length of 25-1/2". The reason being the longer scale means more string tension to come up to pitch. The feel for bending is about the same for me. I like the hybrid sets with the larger bottom end strings. 9-42 works fine but for me they are a little too slinky.

 

As for the gouges on the back I would just leave it. Nobody sees it when you are playing but it is up to you. The finish is polyurethane and the are lots of folks here to address the finish repair if you choose to do it. Do you have pictures of the back?