ES-359 with B7 Bigsby?

[Drunkmunky33]

Guys,

 

A previous thread that i had created and was answered was sort of no help for me/didn't give me the answer i was particularly looking for.

DO any of you think drilling holes in an Ebony Gibson Custom ES-359 - to fit a Bigsby B7G to it - is a good idea? I understand second hand value and appreciation wouldn't be as good etc, but this tremolo (although seen as many as merely a good looking, heavy lump of aluminium) is exactly what i want,it's gorgeous and that alone - sort of - is enough for me. Any suggestions on what to do? The Vibramate route only leads me to attaching a B5 to it, which isnt even close to the spectacle the B7 is. However, an advert on eBay specifies that the Vibramate V7 for the B7 Bigsby fits the ES335. Now i know eBay isn't reliable. Vibramate says it isn't compatible, BUT on the off chance that the V7 fitted the 335, it was also fit the 359 would it not?

 

Here is the link to the eBay page, the Vibramate Spec page, and the thread i previously started.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Bigsby-B7-Vibrato-V7-Vibramate-Bundle-Tailpiece-for-Gibson-Les-Paul-Gold-/360694113757?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item53fb0b65dd

 

http://www.vibramate.com/vibramate-model-chart.php

 

http://forum.gibson.com/index.php?/topic/105705-es-359-with-vibramate-and-b7-bigsby/page__p__1429194__hl__vibramate__fromsearch__1#entry1429194

 

 

 

 

Thanks a lot for your time \:D/ ,

 

Charles

[BigKahune]

.

Here's a thought -

 

I remember a post where a member said he use the strap button to screw the Bigsby into the end block and the pressure of the strings held the Bigsby down on the top - http://forum.gibson.com/index.php?/topic/81005-putting-a-bigsby-on-my-es-335/page__view__findpost__p__1154253

 

 

.

[daveg]

My OPINION is that you are making a very basic error. Take a look at this:

 

http://www.garysguitars.com/catalog/1966-guild-duane-eddy-de-400-gue0172

 

This design WORKED but needed a rocking bridge as shown. I fitted one of these to my Les Paul Recording and changed the bridge to a Schaller unit with rollers. The strings need to move over the bridge otherwise you wise get all sorts of (unintended) noises.

 

The version that you propose NEEDS the extra screws in the body - this one does not.

 

Do a little more research before you ruin a fine instrument and find that you need to make further changes to make it work properly.

 

DG

[Jayyj]

The strap button trick does work if you use a Bigsby B3 or B6, which uses string pressure to hold the Bigsby against the guitar body. If you do this make sure there is a long screw going into a properly drilled hole, and use a washer between the strap button and the Bigsby. If you use a B7 the string tension will pull the Bigsby away from the body, so the strap button trick won't work.

 

There is also the Towner Bigsby kit, that screws into the holes for the stop bar and makes a B3/6 function more like a B7, and would work in conjunction with the strap button mount.

 

Personally I've owned guitars without Bigsbys and enjoyed playing them at home, but whenever a gig or a recording session comes up it's always a Bigsby loaded guitar comes with me. For that reason if I decide I really like a guitar and permanently fitting a Bigsby is the only way to get one on there I'll just go for it. But if it's just an idea you're toying with or if you're some who likes to keep a guitar for a while then move on to another instrument, the Towner/B3 combo would probably be my preference.

[dponzi]

Did you look into the Vibromate? I think the Vibromate should eliminate any need to drill holes. The Vibromate is held down at the strap button hole and at the stop bar lugs. Then the Bigsby is screwed down into threaded holes in the Vibromate.

 

My link

 

 

 

I should have read your entire post. Sorry

[Danny W.]

My OPINION is that you are making a very basic error. Take a look at this:

 

http://www.garysguitars.com/catalog/1966-guild-duane-eddy-de-400-gue0172

 

This design WORKED but needed a rocking bridge as shown. I fitted one of these to my Les Paul Recording and changed the bridge to a Schaller unit with rollers. The strings need to move over the bridge otherwise you wise get all sorts of (unintended) noises.

 

The version that you propose NEEDS the extra screws in the body - this one does not.

 

Do a little more research before you ruin a fine instrument and find that you need to make further changes to make it work properly.

 

DG

The guitar in your link, a Guild DE400, is a thin hollowbody that can't be used with a B7 because there is no solid wood to hold the body screw. I'm pretty sure the ES359 is a true semi with a center block, in which case the Bigsby B7 is the correct model--the B3 does not put as much down tension on the bridge as the B7 does. When Gibson installs a Bigsby on a semi, they use the B7 model:

 

 

Note that the B3 in your link has a longer throw to the bridge and that the DE400 has a bit more arch than a CS359, so it probably gets enough down pressure without the roller bar, but on a semi, more is better.

 

As for a roller bridge, I much prefer a standard ABR-1. Roller bridges can add mass and decouple the strings from the body. I currently have four guitars equipped with ABR-1s and the only unintended noises result from my playing. I do use grease on them to make sure they stay quiet <_<

 

Danny W.

[BigKahune]

... I'm pretty sure the ES359 is a true semi with a center block, in which case the Bigsby B7 is the correct model ...

 

I have a 359 and yes it has a center block.

 

 

.

[cjtowner]

Thank you for the conversation about the Towner products, if anyone has installed them I would like to hear your comments, stories, etc...

 

Thank You

Chrisitan