jlbanta61 Posted December 2, 2015 Share Posted December 2, 2015 Hello, I'm new to the forum and this is my first post. I just purchased a 1967 LG-0 in very good shape, played very minimally over it's lifetime. My question is this guitar has tortoise shell neck binding and from what I can see from pictures on the internet, the LG-0's did not have neck binding. If this is true, I'm wondering why this one has it? Could it have been a mistake, or used intentionally to cover up some imperfection on the neck? Or am I wrong and Gibson did indeed bind the necks on some of these models? Thanks for your help, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aliasphobias Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 Hello, I'm new to the forum and this is my first post. I just purchased a 1967 LG-0 in very good shape, played very minimally over it's lifetime. My question is this guitar has tortoise shell neck binding and from what I can see from pictures on the internet, the LG-0's did not have neck binding. If this is true, I'm wondering why this one has it? Could it have been a mistake, or used intentionally to cover up some imperfection on the neck? Or am I wrong and Gibson did indeed bind the necks on some of these models? Thanks for your help, John Hello and welcome. Yes Gibson did bind the neck on some, you have the proof . There is a lot of this with Gibson; mystery models, inconsistent serial numbers, inconsistent appointments etc. Enjoy your LG-0 and post some pics, we would love to see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlbanta61 Posted December 3, 2015 Author Share Posted December 3, 2015 Thanks for the info aliasphobias, that makes sense. Here are some pics of it. It's in very decent shape for it's age. The exception is the TS body binding has many cracks in it (I had a tiny piece fall out. Now that it's being played and handled etc... I have some new retro 'Golden Age' tuning gears ordered from Stew-Mac for it. I'm pretty certain the chrome ones must have been a replacement set somewhere over time. I'd rather try to keep the vintage look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aliasphobias Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 Good call on the tuners, I think that would have had the Kluson 3 on a plate tuners? Common problem with the binding on some models. As a suggestion post on the "acoustic" forum. It tends to get more traffic and there are some friendly, knowledgeable people there. Take a look at the bridge pad when you get a chance, some of the earlier models had spruce (which eventually became a problem and was later changed to mahogany). I would be curious as to what it is made of. Given that yours has the RW bridge it probably has the mahogany pad. The spruce pad was usually coupled with the plastic bridge. Â Cool little guitar! Â edit; budget tuners Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlbanta61 Posted December 3, 2015 Author Share Posted December 3, 2015 Good call on the tuners, I think that would have had the Kluson 3 on a plate tuners? Common problem with the binding on some models. As a suggestion post on the "acoustic" forum. It tends to get more traffic and there are some friendly, knowledgeable people there. Take a look at the bridge pad when you get a chance, some of the earlier models had spruce (which eventually became a problem and was later changed to mahogany). I would be curious as to what it is made of. Given that yours has the RW bridge it probably has the mahogany pad. The spruce pad was usually coupled with the plastic bridge. Â Cool little guitar! Â Thanks for the advise, is there a way that you're aware of that I can transfer this Subject to the Acoustic forum. I'm not sure about the bridge pad. The bridge is lifted slighlty, I'm able to stick the end of a business card under there no more than a 1/4". I plan on sanding a very small amount from the saddle, when I do, I'll give a look to the type wood under there. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimt Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Thanks for the advise, is there a way that you're aware of that I can transfer this Subject to the Acoustic forum. I'm not sure about the bridge pad. The bridge is lifted slighlty, I'm able to stick the end of a business card under there no more than a 1/4". I plan on sanding a very small amount from the saddle, when I do, I'll give a look to the type wood under there. Thanks again. Â Â as far as the bridge goes.. I would be sending it to a luthier and get it removed , Cleaned up and reglued.... reason.. so the Top does not belly at the rear and sink at the front from stress.. it might cost a bit.. but a lot less than having top issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aliasphobias Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Thanks for the advise, is there a way that you're aware of that I can transfer this Subject to the Acoustic forum. I'm not sure about the bridge pad. The bridge is lifted slighlty, I'm able to stick the end of a business card under there no more than a 1/4". I plan on sanding a very small amount from the saddle, when I do, I'll give a look to the type wood under there. Thanks again. Â Â Â Â No, I don't know how to do that. I struggle to post photos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlbanta61 Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 as far as the bridge goes.. I would be sending it to a luthier and get it removed , Cleaned up and reglued.... reason.. so the Top does not belly at the rear and sink at the front from stress.. it might cost a bit.. but a lot less than having top issues. Â Yes, wise advise. I know of a great luthier in Eau Claire, WI, Gordy Bischoff. I should take it to him. thanks for your input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlbanta61 Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 No, I don't know how to do that. I struggle to post photos. Â Gotcha! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlbanta61 Posted January 25, 2016 Author Share Posted January 25, 2016 Well, it's been awhile. I did take my little LG-0 to Gordy Bischoff in Eau Claire, WI. He repaired the bridge, had to reset the neck and also replaced some of the TS body binding where it was cracking away. I had him install the Golden Age tuners from Stew Mac, they seem to work very well. In all honesty, after some $$ spent, this little guitar plays better than it has a right to, I'm extremely happy I spent what it took to make it right. It stays in tune now like a dream. As I remember others stating regarding the tuners, the pegs are quite silly looking being so white. They do a great job at making the plate look retro but then have the pegs as white as snow, weird. I am going to take another members advise and try the Rit Golden Yellow dye. My thought on this is to start out safely with a weak mixture and make it stronger if needed (can always go darker, can't go lighter) Any suggestions or advise? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aliasphobias Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 Glad it worked out for you. The LGO is one of those "don't break the bank guitars" but they seem to have a little following. Mahogany is not my favorite top wood but I tend to like it better in small body guitars. I have experimented with toning tuner knobs but never tried the RIT. I don't remember having good results with anything I have tried (tea, coffee, shoe polish, etc.). Your approach seems logical. Please report back with your experience. Acknowledged your yea vote for the Golden Age tuners. I had heard mixed reviews on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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