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aliasphobias

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Everything posted by aliasphobias

  1. Sounds like the op has the correct plan. But you don't have to duplicate the fb radius on the saddle top. All you are doing with the saddle is setting the action at the 12th fret. All ready made saddles are ballpark and all will require adjustment. Bob Colosi is a great go to and where I'd start, if you're not of mind or mood to make one.
  2. It is one of Gibson's many iterations of the J45. The "ladder brace" behind the bridge plate may be a Proulx tone enhancer. I have never seen one in a Gibson! May have been added later? I have seen the Proulx in small/boutique built guitars just not in Gibson. The tone enhancer is reported to liven up the trebles IIRC. I owned the a '94 j45 with mahogany back and sides, tulips, and the banner headstock. It did not have the Proulx but could have used it, from what I remember. Welcome and enjoy the western.
  3. Looks like a mid '60s J45 unburst. Good find!
  4. Looks like a '70s case to these eyes. Not being a huge fan of that era guitar, can't say much about the cases. Nice guitar! Pretty case! No money changed hands..gotta love that!!
  5. It looks to be '60s to me. I think Gibson only made them for a couple years (late '30s) if memory serves, with the "Old Kraftsman" moniker. The Gibson made ones look very similar to the Recording King or Kalamazoo models they made. The painted on binding and "steel reinforced neck" give a nod to 1960's Kay instruments, which most Old Kraftsman were. Looks to be in good shape ! Enjoy!!
  6. So you come here belittle me. Appoint yourself as spokesperson for "the forums", as well as the woodworking community and you have nothing? No woodworking experience to cite for those who use an "actual chisel"?
  7. It looks to be in very good condition. Not to be cute or flip, those are the ones that worry me. It usually means they haven't been played much and for good reason. I don't think the double x is as much a factor as the huge plywood bridge plate that encompasses the entire diamond made up by the x braces (inaccessible). As a hobbyist guitar repairman and builder they have always piqued my interest. Bracing is easily modified or scalloped. However, I find the asking price of them to not easily fall into the realm of "experimental" pieces. Condition alone makes it worth a look. Good luck I hope it turns out for you. Either way, should you check it out, I would be interested in your impression. Edit: Also if I am not mistaken this era would be the longer 25 1/2" scale as opposed to the 24 3/4". Although there have been both iterations since the beginning the short is probably the more sought after.
  8. It seems I have angered you Leonard. The next time that you are resetting a guitar neck, or fitting the dovetail on the guitar you are building try this experiment: take a very damp sponge and wet the mortise, then insert the dry dovetail, it will leave a very noticeable damp mark where material needs to be relieved for a tight fit. Just like carbon paper leaves an ink spot. I have repaired guitars and build acoustics for a hobby. I don't claim expertise in either. I have also not accepted work I didn't feel I had the skill for. I have never handed one back to the owner that I had damaged through ignorance or negligence. The information Mr. Rosa lacks is readily available on the internet. Feel free to qualify your rant with your real life woodworking experience. Mr. Rosa posts his videos in a public forum he has welcomed public scrutiny.
  9. V The guy is a first rate hack. He doesn't have a basic understanding of the materials he works with. I will admit I didn't watch the entire thing. I looked at the picture (destroyed finish around the bridge) and skipped ahead to see how he did that. Heat is not the best way to loosen glue, steam is. Just like the J200 that he used every chemical he had available to try and melt the lacquer. Guess what melts lacquer? Lacquer thinner. The problem is/was lacquer thinner evaporates before it can soften the finish unless you add lacquer retarder with it. He charges people to ruin their guitars. First do no harm!
  10. I would take it to a luthier and have the pins fitted and pin holes slotted (your bridge plate will thank you one day). Just a perfect option for the low saddle AND poor fit.
  11. I will throw this out there. The adjustable bridge has a large margin for error (from the factory)... I have seen many that have never had nor do they need a neck reset. Over set necks? You bet. Look at the saddles on an adj. , then tell me you would like your slotted saddle that tall. As for the OPs question, yes I think it was intended as an action adjustment on the fly. As these pages will attest, it has become much more than that. I like them and have had several. As Mr. 7th, I have had a long dance with the ceramic versions (there are two, shiny and the dull) and hereby declare it the best. Unless you want to sit back in the mix or record then the rosewood or ebony sounds perfect. Have tested the Tusq and bone and they aren't for me.
  12. P.O.S., (respectfully of course). As mentioned needs a neck reset. I like the cartoon characters on the sides!
  13. That is a lovely J 45, Mr. Gog. Congratulations on your good taste! I would love to have one but my billfold can only get me to the mid '50s.
  14. P Let's talk about them again! It's not like much is happening here. Glad you like yours Marcos. I liked mine too. I think Gibson was on to something there. A new design! Then they figured out everyone wanted an old J45. Venetian or Florentine? ..
  15. I recently ran my '57 J50 on Reverb (original but for string pins and tuner buttons), no cracks, neck hasn't been reset nor need it. I didn't have the original Lifton case but offered it with a Gibson T.V. , luggage style, case. In the couple months of it running, the best offer I got was $3800. I didn't need to sell it, was just in a mood to, so I kept it. I hope it works out well for you Dan. Sorry to hear of the M.S. progression.
  16. Nah not much. Some hear it and some don't. Just make sure you don't force them if they don't fit (use a little sandpaper and modify the pin not the hole [sorry if you already knew that]). Easily reversed if you don't like them
  17. I would agree that they vary. What era 'bird are we talking? I would measure for you if I had one. You might try posting this in the "acoustic" sub forum, this doesn't get much traffic
  18. That's a tough call from the pics but looks like some impact damage at the treble side of the nut (pic 1). Also a little misalignment at the area (pic 3). I think I would get a pro opinion.
  19. The guitar looks to be a '46/'47 LG2. Script logo, no banner.
  20. It looks pretty rough to me Pat. Yours was "controlled" rough, plus you got to play it first. My guess is that in the 4 months he has had it listed, he turned down at least 1 (of the 5 he's had) offer he should have taken. I think I'd save up another $700-1000 and dive into something a bit cleaner.
  21. As we all know hide glue is brittle. I can't imagine what the flattening process must have done to the top bracing. A competent luthier or repairman would have easily assessed the condition of the top. It's either stable (leave it alone), or unstable (usually requiring some brace re-glueing). It's just as important what you don't do on these old guitars. We can disagree on some of the minor points but I think we all agree that old girl deserved better. Much better..
  22. Personally....I judge him on his quality of work. 'I didn't look up the serial number to date it, who has time for the that with all the instruments laying around to work on?' This guitar came to him with a loose bridge, a compromised bridge plate and some serious finish issues. It didn't have any cracks, broken headstock, or need a neck reset. Within a few minutes he had melted the finish in front of the bridge, started experimenting with chemicals to blend the bare wood 'to be personally honest I don't know what kind of finish is on it, they could've used anything' I still don't think he understands that Gibson builds a radius in there tops because he proceeded to smash it out with boards (that he's specially prepared to not hurt the finish), and the biggest piece of wood he can fit through the soundhole, which in theory moves the saddle closer to the nut (10 cents sharp on the E string , bewildering eh). As I said originally, the glue squeeze out, that he knew was going to be there, he just sets it aside and goes to bed. That's a basic woodworking skill! That is about taking pride in your workmanship and is unforgivable IMO. The 'customer doesn't want to spend a lot of money on it' doesn't hold water for me Juan. Nobody just gives the repairman a blank check and says fix it at any cost! He could have saved time and money by doing a few minutes research to find out the year and finish. 'To be perfectly honest, by golly I can just tell by looking at'em and smelling them how old they are'. Good grief!! This guy isn't only a hack but a first rate hack. The guitar needed the bridge re-glued to be a "player", period. It left his hands in worse shape than it arrived, and much harder for the next person to correct. First do no harm.
  23. If your luthier tells you he can cause more problems cleaning up his glue squeeze out so he's just going to leave it, take your guitar and run. A little bit of paste wax over the finish in the bridge cut outs would have done wonders. Hot hide glue would have been much cleaner if you're too lazy to do clean work. This guy is a hack. I am surprised at how many here are impressed with him.
  24. I always enjoyed the vimeos of you and your wife playing together Tom. Her smile said it all! A special connection with the music. The solid notes from the bass and beautiful harmony soaring above the melody. May her memory live on in the music that you made together and the beautiful instruments the two of you collected. My deepest sympathy to you, your family and friends.
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