Jump to content
Gibson Brands Forums

aliasphobias

All Access
  • Content Count

    854
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

aliasphobias last won the day on May 2 2017

aliasphobias had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

13 Neutral

About aliasphobias

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. So you come here belittle me. Appoint yourself as spokesperson for "the forums", as well as the woodworking community and you have nothing? No woodworking experience to cite for those who use an "actual chisel"?
  2. It looks to be in very good condition. Not to be cute or flip, those are the ones that worry me. It usually means they haven't been played much and for good reason. I don't think the double x is as much a factor as the huge plywood bridge plate that encompasses the entire diamond made up by the x braces (inaccessible). As a hobbyist guitar repairman and builder they have always piqued my interest. Bracing is easily modified or scalloped. However, I find the asking price of them to not easily fall into the realm of "experimental" pieces. Condition alone makes it worth a look. Good luck I hope it turns out for you. Either way, should you check it out, I would be interested in your impression. Edit: Also if I am not mistaken this era would be the longer 25 1/2" scale as opposed to the 24 3/4". Although there have been both iterations since the beginning the short is probably the more sought after.
  3. It seems I have angered you Leonard. The next time that you are resetting a guitar neck, or fitting the dovetail on the guitar you are building try this experiment: take a very damp sponge and wet the mortise, then insert the dry dovetail, it will leave a very noticeable damp mark where material needs to be relieved for a tight fit. Just like carbon paper leaves an ink spot. I have repaired guitars and build acoustics for a hobby. I don't claim expertise in either. I have also not accepted work I didn't feel I had the skill for. I have never handed one back to the owner that I had damaged through ignorance or negligence. The information Mr. Rosa lacks is readily available on the internet. Feel free to qualify your rant with your real life woodworking experience. Mr. Rosa posts his videos in a public forum he has welcomed public scrutiny.
  4. V The guy is a first rate hack. He doesn't have a basic understanding of the materials he works with. I will admit I didn't watch the entire thing. I looked at the picture (destroyed finish around the bridge) and skipped ahead to see how he did that. Heat is not the best way to loosen glue, steam is. Just like the J200 that he used every chemical he had available to try and melt the lacquer. Guess what melts lacquer? Lacquer thinner. The problem is/was lacquer thinner evaporates before it can soften the finish unless you add lacquer retarder with it. He charges people to ruin their guitars. First do no harm!
  5. I would take it to a luthier and have the pins fitted and pin holes slotted (your bridge plate will thank you one day). Just a perfect option for the low saddle AND poor fit.
  6. I will throw this out there. The adjustable bridge has a large margin for error (from the factory)... I have seen many that have never had nor do they need a neck reset. Over set necks? You bet. Look at the saddles on an adj. , then tell me you would like your slotted saddle that tall. As for the OPs question, yes I think it was intended as an action adjustment on the fly. As these pages will attest, it has become much more than that. I like them and have had several. As Mr. 7th, I have had a long dance with the ceramic versions (there are two, shiny and the dull) and hereby declare it the best. Unless you want to sit back in the mix or record then the rosewood or ebony sounds perfect. Have tested the Tusq and bone and they aren't for me.
  7. P.O.S., (respectfully of course). As mentioned needs a neck reset. I like the cartoon characters on the sides!
  8. That is a lovely J 45, Mr. Gog. Congratulations on your good taste! I would love to have one but my billfold can only get me to the mid '50s.
  9. P Let's talk about them again! It's not like much is happening here. Glad you like yours Marcos. I liked mine too. I think Gibson was on to something there. A new design! Then they figured out everyone wanted an old J45. Venetian or Florentine? ..
  10. I recently ran my '57 J50 on Reverb (original but for string pins and tuner buttons), no cracks, neck hasn't been reset nor need it. I didn't have the original Lifton case but offered it with a Gibson T.V. , luggage style, case. In the couple months of it running, the best offer I got was $3800. I didn't need to sell it, was just in a mood to, so I kept it. I hope it works out well for you Dan. Sorry to hear of the M.S. progression.
  11. Nah not much. Some hear it and some don't. Just make sure you don't force them if they don't fit (use a little sandpaper and modify the pin not the hole [sorry if you already knew that]). Easily reversed if you don't like them
  12. I would agree that they vary. What era 'bird are we talking? I would measure for you if I had one. You might try posting this in the "acoustic" sub forum, this doesn't get much traffic
  13. That's a tough call from the pics but looks like some impact damage at the treble side of the nut (pic 1). Also a little misalignment at the area (pic 3). I think I would get a pro opinion.
  14. The guitar looks to be a '46/'47 LG2. Script logo, no banner.
×
×
  • Create New...