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aliasphobias

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aliasphobias last won the day on May 2 2017

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  1. I would take it to a luthier and have the pins fitted and pin holes slotted (your bridge plate will thank you one day). Just a perfect option for the low saddle AND poor fit.
  2. I will throw this out there. The adjustable bridge has a large margin for error (from the factory)... I have seen many that have never had nor do they need a neck reset. Over set necks? You bet. Look at the saddles on an adj. , then tell me you would like your slotted saddle that tall. As for the OPs question, yes I think it was intended as an action adjustment on the fly. As these pages will attest, it has become much more than that. I like them and have had several. As Mr. 7th, I have had a long dance with the ceramic versions (there are two, shiny and the dull) and hereby declare it the best. Unless you want to sit back in the mix or record then the rosewood or ebony sounds perfect. Have tested the Tusq and bone and they aren't for me.
  3. P.O.S., (respectfully of course). As mentioned needs a neck reset. I like the cartoon characters on the sides!
  4. That is a lovely J 45, Mr. Gog. Congratulations on your good taste! I would love to have one but my billfold can only get me to the mid '50s.
  5. P Let's talk about them again! It's not like much is happening here. Glad you like yours Marcos. I liked mine too. I think Gibson was on to something there. A new design! Then they figured out everyone wanted an old J45. Venetian or Florentine? ..
  6. I recently ran my '57 J50 on Reverb (original but for string pins and tuner buttons), no cracks, neck hasn't been reset nor need it. I didn't have the original Lifton case but offered it with a Gibson T.V. , luggage style, case. In the couple months of it running, the best offer I got was $3800. I didn't need to sell it, was just in a mood to, so I kept it. I hope it works out well for you Dan. Sorry to hear of the M.S. progression.
  7. Nah not much. Some hear it and some don't. Just make sure you don't force them if they don't fit (use a little sandpaper and modify the pin not the hole [sorry if you already knew that]). Easily reversed if you don't like them
  8. I would agree that they vary. What era 'bird are we talking? I would measure for you if I had one. You might try posting this in the "acoustic" sub forum, this doesn't get much traffic
  9. That's a tough call from the pics but looks like some impact damage at the treble side of the nut (pic 1). Also a little misalignment at the area (pic 3). I think I would get a pro opinion.
  10. The guitar looks to be a '46/'47 LG2. Script logo, no banner.
  11. It looks pretty rough to me Pat. Yours was "controlled" rough, plus you got to play it first. My guess is that in the 4 months he has had it listed, he turned down at least 1 (of the 5 he's had) offer he should have taken. I think I'd save up another $700-1000 and dive into something a bit cleaner.
  12. As we all know hide glue is brittle. I can't imagine what the flattening process must have done to the top bracing. A competent luthier or repairman would have easily assessed the condition of the top. It's either stable (leave it alone), or unstable (usually requiring some brace re-glueing). It's just as important what you don't do on these old guitars. We can disagree on some of the minor points but I think we all agree that old girl deserved better. Much better..
  13. Personally....I judge him on his quality of work. 'I didn't look up the serial number to date it, who has time for the that with all the instruments laying around to work on?' This guitar came to him with a loose bridge, a compromised bridge plate and some serious finish issues. It didn't have any cracks, broken headstock, or need a neck reset. Within a few minutes he had melted the finish in front of the bridge, started experimenting with chemicals to blend the bare wood 'to be personally honest I don't know what kind of finish is on it, they could've used anything' I still don't think he understands that Gibson builds a radius in there tops because he proceeded to smash it out with boards (that he's specially prepared to not hurt the finish), and the biggest piece of wood he can fit through the soundhole, which in theory moves the saddle closer to the nut (10 cents sharp on the E string , bewildering eh). As I said originally, the glue squeeze out, that he knew was going to be there, he just sets it aside and goes to bed. That's a basic woodworking skill! That is about taking pride in your workmanship and is unforgivable IMO. The 'customer doesn't want to spend a lot of money on it' doesn't hold water for me Juan. Nobody just gives the repairman a blank check and says fix it at any cost! He could have saved time and money by doing a few minutes research to find out the year and finish. 'To be perfectly honest, by golly I can just tell by looking at'em and smelling them how old they are'. Good grief!! This guy isn't only a hack but a first rate hack. The guitar needed the bridge re-glued to be a "player", period. It left his hands in worse shape than it arrived, and much harder for the next person to correct. First do no harm.
  14. If your luthier tells you he can cause more problems cleaning up his glue squeeze out so he's just going to leave it, take your guitar and run. A little bit of paste wax over the finish in the bridge cut outs would have done wonders. Hot hide glue would have been much cleaner if you're too lazy to do clean work. This guy is a hack. I am surprised at how many here are impressed with him.
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