Murph Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 Well used.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murph Posted January 2, 2019 Author Share Posted January 2, 2019 Chris Thile trying to steal it with Chris Eldridge watching. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murph Posted January 2, 2019 Author Share Posted January 2, 2019 Working it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorrisrownSal Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 Thanks Murph. I am going to be patient and hold out for the right Gibson, which is to say I will play it first... or buy it from the right place - like you did. I have an Eastman till then. Any idea the difference between A junior, 0,1,2,3 etc? Simpler the better for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobouz Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 Any idea the difference between A junior, 0,1,2,3 etc? Simpler the better for me. I'm most familiar with 'A' model mandolins from the late teens & early-mid '20s. > A-Jr, A-1, A-2, A-3, & A-4 differences are primarily a matter of bling (inlays & binding). > Truss rod first appears in the 1922 model year (a few produced in late '21), but the A-Jr does not get the truss rod upgrade. > Pre-'22 model necks (no truss rod) are wider, and have a V-shaped strip of ebony under the fingerboard to provide strength. > Many lower 'A' models have birch bodies, even though Gibson's specs listed maple. These can still sound exceptionally good. It's very important to play an older 'A' before being financially locked in. They can range from dull & lifeless, to wonderfully crisp & full-bodied. Typically though, the early '20s (Loar-era) examples are consistently good. Best of luck in your search! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorrisrownSal Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 Thanks for that information... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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