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Successful Dot Upgrade


Scuttlebutt

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Last week I successfully replaced all the electronics in my favorite (natural color) Dot 335 with some help from this forum. I found this forum while searching for advice on the project, and I wanted to say thank you for the information I found. It gave me added confidence and a few tips that made the challenging task of upgrading a semi-hollow quite enjoyable.

 

I installed Gibson 57 Classic (and a Classic Plus) pickups, CTS "Superpots", specialty caps, new toggle, jack and shielded wiring. The transformation was amazing, and I couldn't be more pleased. I am an Epiphone fan, owning a Sheraton and LP Elitist.

 

So now that I found you, I am a new member and am pleased to be part of the community. Thanks again and best wishes to you all.

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Cool - that is the upgrade I want for my Dot Deluxe as well. In the last few days' date=' I've noticed the neck pickup cutting out. If I bang on it it comes back. I know I could fix it, but I figure I might as well upgrade at the same time.[/quote']

 

Milosch,

You're right. It's all got to come out to repair anyway... just do it!! It's really worth it. Pick a rainy day and be sure to limit your caffeine intake...

 

I am already looking forward to doing my Sheraton (scratchy pots). Good luck.

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OK....I give up! How do you get to the jack? I can see the pots and switch are pretty close to the

f-hole and probably pretty straight-forward to changeout. But, the jack looks miles away from the f-hole and that has to be one of those "must change" parts in a Dot. Was that the toughest component to changeout? How'd you do it?

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Congrats on your upgrades. It is always a nice feeling knowing that you are able to accomplish a job like this

 

OK....I give up! How do you get to the jack? I can see the pots and switch are pretty close to the

f-hole and probably pretty straight-forward to changeout. But' date=' the jack looks miles away from the f-hole and that has to be one of those "must change" parts in a Dot. Was that the toughest component to changeout? How'd you do it?[/quote']

 

 

 

I used fisihing line. I ran the line through the hole for the 1/4" jack and tied it to the jack. I ran the line down though the hole in the jack from the top and around the tip. Then I just pulled it back up thorugh. I used fishing line to fish everything in, except for the pots and switch that were close to the f hole. Just take you time.

 

I used all shielded wire, which I highly recommend. ONe thing to wacth for as you are fishing the post in. Sometimes the wire for the tone pot on the neck pickup wanted to get tangled with the wires for the 1/4" jack. Just watch when you are pulling it through. For tightening the 1/4" jack I just used a piece of 14 gauge wire I had laying around for a wiring job I did in my basement. I made a hook on one end and pushed it down through the jack. Then I took my wrench and tightened the jack as I held the wire. It caught the tip of the jack enough to get the jack fairly tight. It hasnt' come loose on my and I did the job several months ago. It was easy to pull out once the jack was tight.

 

Try everything out before you fish it in to make sure it all works. I made a template and mounted all of my parts to it and soldered everything up to make sure I had enough wire. Then I took it off and fished it in. It really isn't that difficult, it just takes a lot of patience.

 

Good luck

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Thanks for the tip. I was thinking more clothes hanger inserted into the back of the jack. But, I like

the fishing line tip! Reminds me of a technique I use to get knobs off. I use a length of dental floss

under the knob and pull-up. Works every time! But, before tackling a Dot upgrade, I'll be sure to have some fishing line handy!

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Another thing on the 1/4" jack - get a jack with a little longer shaft. I had some neutiks jack on jhad so I used one on my first attempt. The sahft was too short so I couldn't get the washer on. The jack was always coming loose, so I bought a switchcraft with a longer shaft. It has never come loose since I put it in, probably 4 month ago now. It is well worth it and it will diminish the frustrations.

 

http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/electrical_jacksmono.htm

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Good tip - yeah, because the jack goes through the wood, not a thin plastic or metal bracket

as in most electrics. So, the body wood is thicker to go through than for most applications?

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I used something else for the jack. I ground the end down on an old 1/4" cable so that the nut would slip over it. Then I just plugged it into the jack before loosening the nut and dropping the jack into the body. It pulled the new one into place perfectly. I used dental floss on the pots, and it didn't even break when I reamed the holes to fit a 3/8" CTS pot shaft. (I've got photos, but I'm unsure how to include them)

 

Have fun and good luck!

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Scuttlebut.....so, you ground down a 1/4" guitar cable connector, slim enough so it would fit through the hole in the guitar, passed the cable through, connected it to the jack and pulled it back through? Not sure I was following exactly how you did it.

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Great that the forum helped you out!

 

Great that you replaced all the electronics while you were going in there too. That's my usual plan and recommendation for semihollows as well. If you're changing something, might as well change everything while you're in there. If you don't, you might be repeating the procedure sooner than you think.

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Scuttlebut.....so' date=' you ground down a 1/4" guitar cable connector, slim enough so it would fit through the hole in the guitar, passed the cable through, connected it to the jack and pulled it back through? Not sure I was following exactly how you did it.[/quote']

 

PJ,

That's exactly right. I sacrificed an old, light-duty cable I had lying around - I now call it a tool to be used next time!

 

The best trick I learned here by far though, was making a styrofoam form for perfectly placing/locating the new pots while soldering them. Unlike a solid body, when these are soldered outside the guitar body you really don't want the connecting wires between the pots too long, and you certainly can't have them too short. You really don't want to stress the solder joints while stuffing everything back through the f-hole and positioning it. This way they line up perfectly.

 

After pulling the knobs from the old pots, press a piece of firm styrofoam onto the pot shafts and switch (in center position) and make an indentation where the jack is. Once flipped over, it lays the component positions out for you perfectly (for determining wire lengths), and even holds the new pots upside-down while soldering them. Awesome.

 

Side note: Remember to route your new wires in a way where they won't show through the f-hole.

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Did your Dot have this new multi-pin connector in it, that's shown in the Epiphone catalog? It appears to be a connector for plugging and unplugging the pickups from the pot harness. Did you encounter it? Did you use it?

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Did your Dot have this new multi-pin connector in it' date=' that's shown in the Epiphone catalog? It appears to be a connector for plugging and unplugging the pickups from the pot harness. Did you encounter it? Did you use it?[/quote']

 

There was no connector. Not sure I'd want one. Every connection was soldered. The original wiring in the Epiphones is not shielded, including the original pickup leads. That alone should warrant replacing the harness. The 57 Classic leads are shielded.

 

However the connector might be handy if it was in the pickup routs to prevent removal of the harness to just change pickups or test various ones...

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Did your Dot have this new multi-pin connector in it' date=' that's shown in the Epiphone catalog? It appears to be a connector for plugging and unplugging the pickups from the pot harness. Did you encounter it? Did you use it?[/quote']

 

My Dot didn't, but my Sheraton II had one. I put in all new electronics when I changed the pickups and I didn't use the connectors, I just soldered the pickups to the pots.

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