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Anyone can teach me how to set the neck of mi epi so theres no buzzle anymore??

I've raised the bridge without much changes...I think it may be a neck relief thing...but i dont have any idea either of how to notice that the neck is too curved, or how to get it correct. I've removed the trus rod cover(or whatever it is called) but i dont know which tool do I need to fix the problem, even if i'd have to do it CW or CCW...


Please help meeeeeee!! I can't stand this f.. noise!!!!! bzzzzzzz ahhh! hehe

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Put a capo on the first fret and your finger on the last and go to the middle of that (forget the fret number) and the distance between the fret and string is how much relief you have. If the string is touching the fret, you are either dead on or the neck is bowing. Use the correct size allen wrench and only do about 1/6 of a turn per day to tighten or loosen. Or you could look down the neck with your eye above the nut.


Or you could have your guitar set up really nice by a professional tech. This would be the best bet.


And about string buzz. I don't worry about it unless it's audible through the amp. In most cases you only hear it from the guitar, not the guitar and amp.

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Life Lesson #3,720: If you don't know how to do it, hire someone who does. My advice is take it to a shop and let them set it up for you.


If you don't want to pay the $30 for set-up and strings, you'll need an Allen wrench and remember the mnemonic "Righty tighty, lefty loosey." As you tighten the truss rod, the further the neck will bow toward the back. Loosen, and it will bow to the front. (Someone, correct me if I'm wrong.) And if you're worried about the curvature of the neck, look at it in profile. Any significant bowing will be evident.

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Truss rod adjustment can be a troublesome issue for the inexperienced ...especially with regard to the budget or mid priced guitars which most folks cut their teeth on.

Following all the perfectly correct advice [or the factory specs] can actually get you into all kinds of trouble if you don't understand what's going on with a particular neck or fretboard !

Some necks have a slight twist. Many have a little bit of a ramp [or "rising tongue"] towards the body end.

It's also common for factory fret jobs to leave the first [bottom] fret a gnat's higher than the rest.

All or any of the above can get you into all kinds of trouble when following the typical factory requirement for about 10 or 12 thou of relief from end to end under the low E.

You could end up with a "backbow" or hump in the middle of the neck on one or both sides of the fretboard.

So a pro fret level and set up is definitely the best way to go for the nervous beginner.


The above said, there's a safe dodge for getting relief in the right ballpark with most necks.

Firstly, measure relief between the 2nd and 14th frets

[capo or fret lightly just behind the 2nd fret to avoid distorting he string path...too much pressure will cause the string to arc upwards and produce a misleading measurement]

This will remove from the equation any slight case of a ramp at the dusty end or a high first fret at the other.


Secondly, set your relief with reference to the 3rd and 4th strings, not the low E.

This will account for any slight twist in the neck which might otherwise confuse things.


Adjust the rod to give just perceptible relief under those middle strings when measured between frets 2 & 14.

[so that you can just see a gap...maybe about 6 thou or so.


Now check the relief under the outer two strings to establish that there is no gross twist or other distortion in the playing surface. You will often find that [for various reasons] that the neck exhibits a bit more relief under the bass strings than the high strings. [Don't worry about that. It's a good thing...because that's where you most need it.]


Done. Your relief is now safely adjusted within a sensible range and with no odd side effects.


Adjust the action down until you just start to get a bit of fret buzz when playing normally and noodle up and down the fretboard.

If the relief is right for that guitar, the buzzing will be pretty even along the length of the board.

More buzzing in the lower positions indicates that a bit more relief is needed. More buzzing higher up the fretboard may require a bit less relief, with a slight raising of the action at the bridge to compensate.


You should also double check that the nut height is sensibly set.

If the guitar is much harder to play with open strings than with a capo at the first fret...chances are the nut is not cut low enough.

Fret each string at the third fret, so that it also touches the second fret. Now look at any clearence between the string and the first fret.

If anything above a light tap with your finger is required to "ping" the string against the first fret, the nut is probably too high.

The effective nut height as defined by the depth of the slots should be just a tad higher than that of the frets.

[unless you're a slide player...in which case this whole subject is totally irrelevant ! ;^) ]


Finally check and re-adjust the action by raising or lowering the bridge to taste.


If all the above adjustments appear to be in order and you still have issues with the playability [or excessive string rattle/buzzing in certain areas of the fretboard], then chances are that the frets need levelling or that the neck has other issues requiring pro attention.

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