slide-n-bend Posted March 23, 2008 Share Posted March 23, 2008 I just "revived" my pick-up selector switch again so I figure it's time for the inevitable. I know how difficult the labor is, what I need help with is buying the stuff! I'm pretty certain the sheri takes 500k pots but that's where my knowledge ends. I've seen "linear" and "audio" and "CTS". Which do I get for the different controls (volume and tone). Is there a way to know which pick-up switch and input jack to get before I remove them? (there are a few choices at Allparts) And I think I was told by someone to get rosin core solder. Are there different grades of the stuff (like, I've seen 60/40 rosin core. Is that the stuff or is there something else?) Do you have to use soldering flux like on pipes or no? And last (I think) but not least, will any soldering iron do or does it have to be a certain wattage or something. It sounds like I'm helpless but I just don't what, I know how to do that stuff. I know the guys here know their stuff! Thanks for any help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcwillow777 Posted March 23, 2008 Share Posted March 23, 2008 I just rewired my Sherry a few months ago. It really isn't too difficult, it just takes some patience. About the pots, I know some here have said to use audio or linear for specifics ie. volume or tone, but I just used audio for both - 500K. I have had no problems. I used Alpha pots in my Dot and Sherry. They fit the holes without having to make them bigger. The CTS are a better quality, but you will need to make the holes a little larger. I used CTS in my G-400. One thing I learned AFTER doing my Dot was that I need to get the switchcraft long shaft 1/4" jack. The regular one was too short. I'm not sure if All Parts sells them or not but this place does: http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/electrical_jacksmono.htm This place will have all the parts you need. I couldn't find a gold switchcraft switch, but I used an All Parts one and it has worked fine for me. Get some shielded wire. Solder - I used 60/40 until I did a couple of amp kits. The guys recommende 63/47 and I have been using it since. It sets up faster than 60/40. I always use a rosin core solder. When soldereing to the backs of the pots, sand them down first so the solder will stick better. I do use flux from time to time, but the rosin core solder has worked very well on any guitar repairs I have done, so I haven't needed to use it for any of that. I have a 40 watt soldering iron. It melts the solder faster. I'm just careful not to hold it on the parts too long. There are places that sell all of the parts you will need in a kit form, some are pre-soldered. Personally I like soldering the parts together. I made a template when I did mine, out of a think piece of plywood I had laying around. I layed the parts out in it like they would be on the guitar and then soldered them up. That way I knew I would have the right amount of wire needed. Here is a thead that was helpful for me. http://www.gibson.com/products/epiphone/forum/toast.asp?sub=show&action=posts&fid=2&tid=132960 Don't solder teh pickups to the pots until the pickups have been mounted in the guitar. The first time I did it I soldered all the parts up before I got my guitar. I just had to de-solder and re do it. Wiring kit and some other sources: http://www.guitarcandy.com/tek9.asp?pg=products&specific=jommonp4 This guy will give you switchcraft if you ask for it, he just charges a little more. Same with the long shaft 1/4" jack. http://www.rsguitarworks.net/rsstore/index.php?cPath=47&osCsid=84d456pbvp0ab3rksgndk6k0u1 I haven't bought any of these, but I know others here have and have liked them. http://www.wdmusic.com/guitar_electronics_226_ct.htm http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_pickups.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colimodio Posted March 23, 2008 Share Posted March 23, 2008 You need this: It saves a lot of trouble get it at https://www.mojomusicalsupply.com/item.asp?pid=21760&pg=92721&id=2114390-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWANG Posted March 23, 2008 Share Posted March 23, 2008 I make that out of cardboard. But that's a good pic...!! notice the covering from pot to pot over the wires.. without that your threading nightmares will become real! just trace the holes on the face of the guitar on paper. then place that on a piece of cardboard.. punch a hole in. mount your pots/switch/jack. and wire it up.. test those solder joints. no sense pulling everything out for one weak joint. watch pot sizes.. 500K is it, but minis fit! always turn the pot all the way down before soldering.. rough out the back of the pot where you want grounds soldered. if you use wire that's shielded but not covered with cloth or plastic. use sleeves.. if you don't have any .. should be in your epi now.. you can gut a piece of old guitar cable and cut it to length. always always be careful of stray wire ends.. again.. no sense pulling it all because of one tiny wire touching from hot to grnd. etc. the all parts three way is waiting to be put in mine right now....another box type switch bit the dust.. the all parts is the best one I've run into so far. I sell allparts and wd parts.. cts alpha cgs pots.. etc. arguments abound about caps.. but.. from my amp experiments .. spragues brighter sharper faster.. mallorys warmer... sozos are seem to have caught everyone's fancy in amps.. and I know page uses them in guitars, too.. but I've not tried them. further, I've not noticed great difference in the guitar! so.. ymmv. TWANG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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