scantron Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 If your bridge looks like this one below' date=' your going to have trouble fitting any new bridge on it. Welcome to the forum. Stan.[img'][/img] Has anyone found anything to fit those older Dot & Sheraton bridges? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWANG Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 I've got one in gold for the tail and bridge left.. I'm gonna see if there are more available today or tomorrow. the schaller roller bridge fit my epi lp studio just right. had to work with the dowels though. whew! and works just fine, too. but the korean sheris.. they need a specific bridge which is no longer in production. TWANG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ross g Posted December 11, 2008 Author Share Posted December 11, 2008 i got the Sheraton back a couple weeks ago...the bridge i got from Allparts, a Gotoh ( http://www.allparts.com/store/gold-roller-tunematic,Product.asp ) fit into the old bushing and is held on by string tension, so no drilling/doweling was needed...i just paid for a new setup... it stays in tune a lot better, but i think new tuners is the next step...if anyone has a suggestion for quality gold replacements i'd appreciate it... overall i'm happy with the Bigsby, but it seems to rob some of the sustain tbh... keep that in mind if you're thinking of doing it to your guit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWANG Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 refresh me.. that's a korean sheri.. had the bigger style bridge when stock? Nice looking bridge! I used gold grovers.. with the stepped buttons, Imperials. Not the Imperials with the Kluson style back.. so no drilling new screw holes.. work fantastic, tunes great, and really compliments the sheri headstock. I didn't notice any sustain loss with the bigs on my epi lp.... but I hear that complaint a lot, so.. I guess it varies. I'm still debating whether to get a bigs for the sheri.. probably will. *L* Are you going to cover the old tail bushing holes? I made an abalone dot... am trying to find some mop so I can try triangle in dot to match the neck inlays. But a set of dots made of guard material or abalone is probably what I'll settle for. Some use a long plate from one bushing to the other.. engraved with name or custom or something like that, too. TWANG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ross g Posted December 11, 2008 Author Share Posted December 11, 2008 yeah, it's a '99 Korean/Samick...my guit tech guy suggested a Schaller, would have been a lot more work and i didn't like the looks...the Gotoh was less expensive and matched the Sheraton much better imo... i don't think i'll do anything with the holes, doesn't really bother me... as far as the sustain: i may try removing the felt tabs that are between the Bigsby and the guit body, not sure if it will help...the playing is a little spongy, took some getting used to...i may go to .11s (now using :10s) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ross g Posted December 11, 2008 Author Share Posted December 11, 2008 i think the Grover Robomatics are the ones i'd go for...anyone know if they fit or does the peg hole need to be drilled out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcwillow777 Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 Nice looking bridge. Glad it worked out for you. i think the Grover Robomatics are the ones i'd go for...anyone know if they fit or does the peg hole need to be drilled out? The rotomatics should drop right in. You might want to consider the locking Grovers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ross g Posted December 11, 2008 Author Share Posted December 11, 2008 Nice looking bridge. Glad it worked out for you. The rotomatics should drop right in. You might want to consider the locking Grovers. thanks' date=' i like the sound of this: You'll need fewer string wraps, change strings faster, and your tremolo will have more accurate return-to-pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWANG Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 I love the locking grovers.. on strats and on my lp with bigs.. but I love em without a whammy, too.. fast easy string changes. NOTE grover just switched to a model with a knob on the back.. the old ones just had a slightly taller string post.. so now the string post is regular height.. and you have a knob on the back. the instructions with them are simple.. none. I don't know if they work like sperzels.. I assume they do. but.. they told me.. good old wd.. ha!.. they were black chrome, and they aren't. they are painted black. or at least appear to be, to me. I was a bit disappointed in that. but they do look good still.. I don't know if the old style are shipping or the new.. the price went up..I'll have to call and check this out.. It appears you string through, cut string tighten knob.. and tune. the advantage of the knob style is.. with the old style sometimes the string would break close to the tuning post.. and you'd have to dink around to get it out.. I found grabbing it with a needle nose and detuning let it slip right out, but doing that with fingers was harder.. as the string, esp. the e b g were so hard to hold onto if short... with the knob style, you just loosen the knob and it drops out. TWANG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ross g Posted March 18, 2009 Author Share Posted March 18, 2009 ok, i FINALLY have things sorted out... first off, the Sheraton lost considerable sustain with the way i had it set up (with the new roller bridge bushings sitting in the old ones, held on with string tension), i was never satisfied with it...also the bridge wouldn't stay at the correct height with the new bushing being able to spin around....i tried to epoxy the new bushings into the old ones, but i screwed it up: because they weren't really centered, the bridge wouldn't fit on the posts anymore, and while futzing around i ended up snapping one of the posts... at that point i felt like this i figured the old bushings needed to be removed, the holes doweled up, and new bushings fitted... i told my friend about the problem, he happens to be a furniture repair guy and said he could do the job...i was able to get new bushing and posts from ALLPARTs (actually they sent me the wrong ones, but i eventually got the ones for the Gotoh Roller bridge)..my buddy did his best to match the finish as well: not perfect, but you have to look close to see it... now we are in business! the lost sustain is back, she chimes and bends like a champ...i also put the Grover Rotomatic locking tuners on it, and i'm using a graphite lube i got at the local GC...oh, i also removed all the felt washers from the Bigsby, i wanted to make the best contact with body as possible, can't really see the need as i've already drilled into the body...i am VERY happy with my Sherry at this point, but now i'm going to have to upgrade the pups, the stock gold ones are pretty much silver now from the finish wearing off, might as well take her all the way with new pots too thanks again for all help i got on this project...i just noticed lots of people have read this thread, i hope it helps anyone else trying to do the same to their older Sheraton...i think i'm going to move up to :11s, i'll snap some pics and post them at that point.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWANG Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 I have parts numbers for direct fit roller bridges for epis. except for the sheraton. But I've managed to fit a roller to mine without removing or even changing the bushings. plus one on your success! TWANG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ross g Posted March 18, 2009 Author Share Posted March 18, 2009 I have parts numbers for direct fit roller bridges for epis.except for the sheraton. But I've managed to fit a roller to mine without removing or even changing the bushings. plus one on your success! TWANG whatyear is your Sheraton? what did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianh Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 ok' date=' i FINALLY have things sorted out...[/quote'] Ross, can you post some pics of the final results? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWANG Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 I don't remember.. 91? korean sheri. I used a bridge from all parts.. had to do a little finagling but she went right in. TWANG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ross g Posted March 18, 2009 Author Share Posted March 18, 2009 Ross' date=' can you post some pics of the final results?[/quote'] i sure shall, gimmie a day or two... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ross g Posted March 21, 2009 Author Share Posted March 21, 2009 as promised, here's some pics...you can see clearly in the pics where the old posts were removed, but in person you can barely notice it unless you look really close...can't afford new pups/electronics right now, but that's next... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest icantbuyafender Posted March 21, 2009 Share Posted March 21, 2009 Im assuming that any OTHER epi than such a sheraton would have just as easily been outfitted with a regular sized roller bridge (nashville) and a bigsby? like for a G400... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IJJ Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 (edited) Hi All, I realise I am late to the party on this however as this forum thread remains visible and your discussions contain useful info, I would like to contribute as I have found a solution that works for me. I have a 1988/1989 Washburn HB35 upon which I have installed a Bigsby. It has the same thick bridge as the Sheratons you are discussing. I measure the bridge posts to be closer to 71mm than 72mm apart. My initial plan was to get a new bridge, thinking it would be the simplest solution so I bought a cheap 72mm TOM roller bridge from China to try it but that 1mm difference was a problem. I couldn’t force it on. Anyway the machining was crap, the saddles misaligned and the rollers jammed. Straight in the trash. After working out what search terms to use I found a few forums like this. I decided to try buying a set of just roller saddles knowing that dimensions may not be a perfect match. I spent 10GBP with Black Dog Music Supplies here in the UK and got a set. The key would be whether the screw holes would be in the right place for the saddles to sit snugly. After a bit of fiddling I found that the recesses on the top of the bridge in which the saddles move backward and forward are marginally narrower than the 9.1mm wide saddles. Using a needle file I carefully took off the corners (of the saddles) at a 45 degree angle where they meet the recess edges. It was equivalent of taking off about ½ a mm on each side. The supplied standard adjustment screws are shorter than the original ones and do not reach across but fortunately they have the same thread so I reassembled using the tweaked saddles and the original screws. The fit is utterly perfect and snug. They do not rock from side to side at all, yet can be adjusted easily. A slightly fiddly annoyance is that this bridge has tiny retaining C-clips for the screws. I found that some kept falling off so maybe because they are old they’re not quite as springy as they once were. I have ordered a pack of ten 1.9mm replacements from eBay for less than 2GBP. Once I have them on I will do a set-up etc, but for now I am very happy that I can keep the original chunky bridge and not have to do any filling and drilling. I hope this helps anyone coming here in the future. Edited August 31, 2020 by IJJ Clarity/disambiguation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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