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How to easily fill an enlarged screw hole


BSAKing

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A BSA-quik-fix-tip (patent pending) - How to easily fill an enlarged screw hole

 

 

 

I do not recollect seeing this same approach mentioned in a post, but entirely likely this is old news, but just in case.... it sure saved me some effort.

 

Ok – so I got this Epiphone Joe Pass off Ebay – not a lot wrong with it at all, but I was out to check it out anyhow and learn something in the process. Examining it, it turns out that the tailpiece was off center and also canted to the right. This had the effect of pulling the strings to the right when the bridge was positioned properly to align the strings over the pickup screws. I loosened it off and had enough play to almost center it and it made quite a difference in the intonation on the lower registers near the nut. So – I figured it was worth doing permanently. To do that I had to fill existing screw holes and then make new ones over a tad.

 

I had seen other posts where people used toothpicks to fill in the hole – well ok. But I went one better. I used BBQ skewers that you use for shishkabob on the BBQ.

 

Why? Because they are bigger than toothpicks, round (like a dowel), and also have a really nice tapered pointy end.

 

If you take that pointy end and stick it in first (just like in the Zorro movie :-({|= ) it will wedge in to fill the hole exactly – and since tapered – will fill different sizes of holes the same way. No spaces or gaps to contend with.

 

If you are really clever (big cheesy grin) you will push the end into your hole you want to fill and then mark it and pull it back out. Then cut it off so it will be flush with the surface once re-inserted (you can also do the same on the back part so it will not stick out there either). You can also sand the end so it will be nice and smooth too, once reinserted.

 

Best of all – it will not fall through the hole since it is tapered, fills the hole exactly, and once pushed in with a bit of glue will be perfectly flush with the surface. No sanding in place to marr the finish.

 

As an added bonus – you can drill your pilot hole for the screw almost immediately since it is pressure fitted into the hole and any pressure only makes it snugger.

 

Made my life easier so maybe it will be useful to others. (The management assumes no responsibility for irresponsible usage of this fine piece of information. lol)

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Another method I have used in the past (not for guitars but other wood products), is to take any piece of wood, a rasp or file and make some shavings. Mix this with some wood glue, creating a thick paste. Then just shove it in the hole. Wait overnight to dry and re-drill.

It does require waiting for the glue to cure, but it works.

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Last Sunday I looked down and my strap button was backed out 1/4" !! The Schaller strap locks don't help if the screw backs out... I used the toothpick method with no glue to fix it a year ago. It's time to engineer a real fix. I'll try the BBQ idea.

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the major plus I found is that you can insert it, mark in advance, trim and sand, then just pop it in flush with a dab of glue - no sanding or filing near the finish at all... Worked ok for me anyway.... I drilled pilot holes for the screws afterwards to avoid any chips or splintering.

 

As an aside I really cleaned up the fretboard while I had it apart. I used this Gerlitz Guitar Honey and scrubbed it with it along the frets. All sorts of crud came off. It certainly made a noticeable difference over just using lemon oil. I suspect it has some sort of cleaning agent in it as well. The board just looks more evenly colored now. I am sure any one of a number of 'pro' products would do the same....

 

BSA

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