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Question or two for those who have put Bigsbys on thier Pauls...


generation zero

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Hey guys... I've seen a few of you who have put Bigsby vibratos on your Les Pauls, and I was considering doing that to my Samick Avion, which is basically a Les Paul copy. I went researching Bigsbys and found two models, the B7 which appears to be the original, and the B700 which is the liscensed model. The only major difference aside from cosmetics I could find is in the design of the end of the tailpiece. The B7 has 4 screwholes, and a bigger hole for the strap button, where the B700 has only 2 screw holes, and the strap button appears to get mounted over a third screw hole. Question 1, if I am using Schaller strap locks, will that system work with the B7? I'm assuming the strap button sits down inside the large hole on that model, hence m concern with the straplock being able to fit around the peg once the bridge is installed. And question 2, are there any other differences I am not noticing in the pictures, such as weight, type of metal used, general quality and durability? Both are made by the same company, so I would assume there's not too much difference... unless "licensed -> original" is like "Epiphone -> Gibson" and the liscensed ones are made overseas or something. Just trying to make sure the original one will work with my straplocks, and that it's worth the extra $20.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

Pictures in reference:

 

B7, original:

 

502071.jpg

 

 

 

B700, liscensed:

 

502075.jpg

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I put a B70 on my Agile AL-3100, a Les Paul Copy, so I can't really comment on either first hand. One advantage to the B7 is the large hole in the center. Often times the end pin is not on center and with that being the case you don't have to redrill the end pin hole. I have had no problems with the B70s that I have installed on my guitars, 3 in all. I would recommend a roller bridge and a graphite nut. However, I do have the stock nuts on two of my guitars with Bigsbys and they work fine. No major problems with it going out of tune. No more than with all the string bending I do.

 

My guess about the strap lock fitting into the hole is that it would, but I don't know for sure.

 

I don't know that there are that many differences in the B7, B70 and B700 units other than what you mentioned and the fact that the B7 is USA made, the others are Asian. There probably are, but I am happy with my B70. The B70 looks more like the B7, except that there are only three holes in the end like the B700. The end pin goes in the center hole. If you gotta have USA than go for the B7. My B70 is a licensed Bigsby though. It is stamped licensed, it just looks different than the way licensed looks on the B7. When I bought mine the B7 was way more than $20 more, so I went with the B70. I don't know how much you are looking to spend, but I paid about $85-90 for mine, including shipping.

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Hi gen,

As you can see in my avatar, I have a Bigsby B5 (sandcast) mounted on my Epi '56 Goldtop. Bigsby also sells the licensed B50 (less expensive).

I originally bought a B7, but my tech advised me to exchange it for the B5. Although the B7 is more common (and factory installed in some cases), the B5 doesn't stick out of the bottom (and is easy to install), so you won't have any problems with your straplocks.

Tuning shouldn't be a big problem if you install locking tuners. I have Gotoh locking Rotomatics and a GraphTec nut.

Check it out...

Frank

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The B5 looks cool, but it also looks like it would be harder to install... did you install it yourself, or did you have your tech do it? I'll look into it, to see which is more expensive, because cost is a factor... but I think I like the look of the bigger tailpiece for this specific guitar. I'll post pics of it in a bit... When I do, you'll see how the black and chrome scheme of the B7 or the B700 would look sweet with the rest of the existing hardware. Right now, Musician's Friend has the B700 for $99, and the B7 for $119... for $20, I think the USA made one looks a little more retro, which is kinda what I'm going for. But, considering the potential issue with the strap button, I will probably just grab the cheaper one. Still open to other thoughts though... thanks for your insights, guys!

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Here's a few pics of the guit fiddle in question...

 

11ig8.jpg

 

12qw8.jpg

 

 

And a quick mockup of what it might look like with a B7:

 

13tj9.jpg

 

 

See what I mean about the black and chrome? Definitely helps to tie the pickguard to the hardware and pickups. I was going to take the guard off like I did on my other pauls, but the geniuses at the factory used too long a bolt to secure the guard to the mounting bracket and then didn't secure the bracket tightly to the body, so the bolt in the guard banged a nice little hole in the front of the guitar. But since it's not really a Paul anyway, and the body shape gives it a bit more retro feel, I decided to leave the guard on and go for a neo-vintage kinda vibe. The covered Mean 90 sounds killer... it offsets the darkness of the solid body well. This is by far the heaviest guitar I have... which is a plus for me. I originally only bought it for the Gator case it came in, I planed to offload it immediately, but it has quickly grown on me. After I took that hideous Dimebucker out of it, that is... LOL!

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I used the B70 on my epi lp.

 

One tricky part is the hinged tail section isn't quite the same curve as the body is at the heel.

so you have to be careful putting the screws in there.

If you start with those screws, you risk getting it less straight over the bridge.

 

Another thing is the bushing holes will show. More on the low side than the high.

I used a piece of aluminum and made a half circle, glued it over the low side bushing.

the tiny high side was a pain for aluminum, and hidden by the whammy bar 99% of the time, so I used a piece of guard material.

someday I'll take the time to make that aluminum, too.

 

I filled the strap peg hole with toothpicks and elmers. then redrilled for the hole in the bigs which didn't really line up with it.

 

 

You want to put masking tape over the top of the guitar before you start, prevent scratching while you're lining everything up and getting it

figured out.

On the heel too.

 

I used a schaller roller bridge. the strings coming off the whammy front bar nearly touch the sides before they hit the saddles.

So if you want to be very sure this wont happen, go for graph tech saddles, or have a good return policy on the bridge you do try.. observing it's

front to back width. (nut to bridge width)

 

I didn't try the B5 because I had the impression it wouldn't really mount on an arched top.

The B7/B70 is what is always recommended so I went with that.

 

Here's a rather crappy pic of mine with the bushing pieces.

elpstbigsfix1.jpg

elpstbid4.jpg

 

there's a bunch of pics, pages two and three of the work done.. tape, bushing hole removal, etc., at that photobucket address.

 

you should be able to use straplocks ok.. I used dunlops. you have a little extra thickness at the bigs tail so all you have be sure of is the right screw length.

Nice guitar.. and a bigs with graph techs saddles would look good for sure.

I also went with grover locking tuners.

 

TWANG

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