caulkhead Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 Hi all, I'm happy to say I'm the proud owner of a 2004 Unsung built Sheraton II (see pics) I got it about a month ago in mint second hand condition and I was very pleased with the deal. After about a month of living with it there are things I love: Great looks Great neck Bags of character Plays really well Sounds cool through my Vox amp. But also things that I want to improve upon: Lots of hum Tuning machines not precise Pickups muddy and indistinct. I've been reading these forums and I've decided to make some improvements. I've ordered some new tuning machines and pickups (GFS Vintage 59's and Grover rotomatic 18:1 locking tuners) but I'm also keen to replace the wiring harness as I think most of the hum must come down to bad wiring. I want to go down the route of using a pre-wired harness as my soldering and wiring skills are only basic. I was strongly considering the Mojo pre-wired unit but I don't really want to drill the guitar if I can help it. My question is, can I buy a pre-wired harness with small enough pots to go through my F hole that will also fit into the existing harware holes?? Many thanks in advance for any help you can give me. ATB Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lpdeluxe Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 Measure the f-holes: they have to be 1" at the narrowest point for the Mojo assembly to fit. My Samick had 3/4" wide f-holes, and I ended up wiring it with mini pots. The Mojo kit looks pretty good, but it wouldn't fit in my Epi, and my Gibson 335 doesn't need it. If you want my guide to rewiring a Sheraton, let me know. It mostly takes patience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcwillow777 Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 I've got Vintage 59s in my Sherry and Dot. They were a big improvement. I would say the the hum is a ground problem. Making a wiring harness isn't too difficult, if you do one make sure that you use shielded wire. I didn't on my first attempt on my Dot and I had a lot of hum. It is dead quiet now. Twang has made several harnesses for other forum members. Shoot him a PM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron G Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 For the sake of clarity and accuracy, what you're referring to is not a harness - it's a pre-wired assembly. Guitars do not have wiring harnesses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWANG Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 I mount the pots on cardboard. I recommend alpha or cts but you need to drill out the pot holes sometimes.. not hard though. as they come with metric sized shafts. basically you just put the right size drill bit in the drill and tape around the end so that only 1/2"can go through.. and it reams it right out. Or you can use mini cge pots. which is what gibson used to use. and they fit right in. I've got all three. I use sheilded wire for all the hot leads, and do the switch and output jack along with the pots. sprague caps. treble bleed caps if you want them, free, and installed. that lets you turn down the volume and not lose treble as you do it. the tone stays the same. and you can have it wired stock or as individual controls so that you can turn one off and the other stays on. stock, if your turn one down all the way, with three way in middle, both pickups go off. Of course, you can buy the pots and do it yourself, too, just soldering skills. but most people like to have it done for them as you don't have to buy so much extra wire, or they don't have soldering iron, etc. I've got pots and wire and caps and switch and output jack in stock. The hard part: threading it through the f hole. that's how they have to come in. so you have to run string through the output jack and at least three of the pot holes.. one pot and the switch you can do with your fingers or using a screwdriver just push them up through the f hole. another thing, some sheris, like mine, wont take a full size pot through the f hole, so you have to use minis. the drilling part isn't to be scared of. .. heck, you could do it with just the bit and no drill, twist it in by hand. It's a thin top. Overall, the thing that will frustrate you the most is threading through.. you have to run a piece of string through, say, the output jack hole.. then through the output jack.. I use a rubber washer tied to one end of the string so it pulls the jack up to the hole when you pull on the outside end of the string. then, when you have the threaded portion through the hole, you put on washer and nut. you have to watch that you don't turn the nut and force the jack to turn. that can screw up your wiring and short things out.. so you have to start over. then shake the washer into the guitar, when you're all done with everything, and pull it out through the f hole. repeat with pots. with pots I tie the string around the base of the shaft, then cut it off when I'm done. always solder with the pots turned all the way down, or you get hot spots. patience will win with this job. it's doable. TWANG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L1Picker Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 I recommend alpha or cts but you need to drill out the pot holes sometimes.. not hard though. as they come with metric sized shafts. basically you just put the right size drill bit in the drill and tape around the end so that only 1/2"can go through.. and it reams it right out. When I opened the holes on my Broadway to put in CTS pots I used a bit on my Dremel that cleaned it up nicely without damaging the finish at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWANG Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 That's a good idea.. I might even try that on mine if I ever redo it. I know some of them are close and the binding should be thick enough to reduce a bit. +1 TWANG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caulkhead Posted January 6, 2009 Author Share Posted January 6, 2009 Hi everybody, Many thanks for your kind advice, it's very much appreciated. Ron, sorry about the bad terminology - I'm still playing catch-up......!! Twang, many thanks for your offer, if you are happy to ship to the UK then I'd be delighted to get the wiring assembly from you. I'll drop you a PM to tie up the details and we'll go from there. All the best! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWANG Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 that guitar sure has a great gain and figure in it. looks better than mine. I'd make one more recommendation. graph tech saddles in the bridge. no tone loss, better tuning, easier on strings. and if you don't like the way the guard is thin.. you can see the bracket.. I can make you a guard that's thick and wont show it. I should take a pic of the one I just put on mine.. I'll try to do that today. much better material. got your pm.. thanks TWANG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
generation zero Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 I'm in the middle of rewiring my semi-hollow Les Paul copy, and having similar issues. The string is a good idea, I never thought of that. I'm mad that I didn't, actually... LOL. The standard size pots fit through the F holes on mine, but just barely. I was thinking of going with minis... Is there any noticable difference in tone with the minis or no? Also, twang, where do you get your sprague caps from? I was going to order caps from stew Mac in bulk when I order a roll of vintage style pushback wire, but I don't think those are spragues. I am also thinking of trying that Black Ice thing they have... It's a passive overdrive circuit in a cube housing not much bigger than a cap... Turns your tone knob into an overdrive control. I was going to try that on a different guitar, maybe the Samick. Anybody ever try one? Also, while we're on the subject of pots and caps, anybody have any thoughts on using 1 Meg pots instead of 500k? Supposedly it let's you run your guitar "wide open"... Not sure if that would be a good thing or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWANG Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 The minis don't have the tight feel of the larger pots.. but otherwise, I can't tell any difference. It's never bothered me on the sheri one bit. You can get spragues mallorys or sozos.. try www.tubestore.com hmmmm just checked.. 400 to 600V.. better for amps www.tubesandmore.com hmmm just checked those are all 600 V you don't need that. and www.mouser.com taking a look.. ah. http://mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=sprague+orange+drop+capacitors look for 200V in the value you want. and here's another Small Bear Elec. http://www.smallbearelec.com/Categories.bok?category=Capacitors%2C+Sprague+715+Series%2C+Orange+Drop that oughta do ya. TWANG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caulkhead Posted January 6, 2009 Author Share Posted January 6, 2009 Hi twang I actually quite like the see-thru pickguard so that's staying on there but your advice about the graph tech saddles is definitely a good call - Can you buy them with a gold finish? And do you know what the model number is to fit a 2004 Korean Sherrie? Cheers mate!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWANG Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 the graph techs are even called the epiphone saddle.. so it's an easy answer! they only come in black. but that still looks good in the gold bridge! epiphone moderators asked me to not sell parts in here.. so please email me from now on with those questions. coleman_patrick@hotmail.com I don't wanna get booted! TWANG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caulkhead Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 Apologies to the Mods and to you Twang. I didn't want to cause any problems for anyone. I'll take this off-board now and to your email. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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