Samick/Korean Sheraton II bridge replacement .. pictorial

[TWANG]

Step one:

Why?

 

Some people find the gold has worn off. Some are concerned that the tone isn't what it could be. The original bridges

had saddles that were fairly porous material. I've even seen them broken in half.

Some want to go chrome, some want rollers, or graph tech saddles, or Tone Pros.

 

The original bridge, if compared to after market bridges, shows the post holes to not line up.

Consequently, everyone, including me, thought that standard metrci aftermarket bridges would not fit.

Indeed if you have your posts in the guitar, and try to set a metric bridge on them, it wont fit.

 

However, dubwise in this forum, asking a question about bridge rattle, was advised to use teflon plumbers tape

around threads, to tighten the fit.

Which made me wonder if there might be enough clearance created by raising the bridge posts, creating more wiggle room--the farther down you have the posts, the tighter they fit, the less clearance or wiggle you have.

 

In the first picture we can see, though it's a bit hazy-hard pic to take with my little digital camera, the post holes

do not line up.

In the second picture, we see the orginal bridge, a metric chrome roller bridge, and a recent issue epiphone standard tunematic bridge side by side from the back.

 

 

end part one.

[TWANG]

step two:

 

with the bridge posts installed, but lowered to normal setting, we can see in the first pic that the metric sized roller

bridge will not fit over the posts. The difference in spacing between posts is greater so one side fits, the other side wont

allow the post to pass through the hole.

 

 

but by raising the posts, we find they will wiggle a bit.. the threads are barely in the bushings, the threads allow more wiggling of the

posts.. accented by their weak/shallow insertion in the bushings.

In the next pic we see the posts in the bushings, but raised.

Also note, the treble side is chrome.. So the new metric posts and bushing are THE SAME SIZE.

That means that you can use a gold bridge, and your old bushings, or you can use a metric black or chrome bridge if you pull your bushings

to match color. The bushings will match the holes in your body.. no redrilling.

 

 

the next pic shows the new bridge mounted on the posts. You'll notice the low E side is not flush with the post top.

You must watch as you lower the bridge posts, as one side or the other will tend to be pushed up. Simply push down on it as you lower

the bridge posts, going a little on one side then a little on the other.

 

No bridge will go down all the way on one side, while leaving the other side up. You always have to raise or lower each side incrementally, back and forth.

 

 

In the next pic I show the bushings, original gold and replacement in chrome are the same. posts will interchange. bushings will interchange.

bridges will interchange on either posts or bushings. This means that if you don't want to remove the bushings, you can just mount

the chrome or other color posts in them, and the chrome, or other color bridge, on top of that.

 

 

end step two.

[TWANG]

Step three:

 

Here is the new bridge, perched atop the raised posts.

 

 

The next pic shows the new bridge but this time well fit, both sides pushed down well onto the posts, and the posts lowered

into the guitar, for string height adjustment.

 

 

the next pic shows the original bridge followed by a pic of the new bridge.

Strings are loose.

 

 

 

NOTE:

this completes the installation, all one does is tune the strings, choose action and you're done.

 

I have noticed that using .011 guage strings on the reproduction Samick style bridge, which has rather tall saddles,

getting low action of the high E string is difficult.

In fact Having just put .011's on my sheri which has the repro bridge, I replaced the bridge with my old one.. because I had

already modified it's saddles and they were lower on the High E side, which allowed me to lower the strings for good action.

 

So, remember that if you use heavier guage strings to consider the saddle height of whatever bridge you choose as a replacement.

Rollers cannot be lowered except by the bridge post height adjustment.

Solid saddles can be filed down, as on my sheri.

 

Solid saddles also tend to have sharp edges. I rounded my original bridge saddles off at each end, though I sacrificed some gold, so that

my palm heel could rest on, or brush against the bridge saddles with not scratching of the skin.

You can also, as I did, lower the overall height of those saddles so that any action problems are cured.

 

I don't expect you'll have any trouble in this regard with roller bridges.

Graph Tech saddles are less tall, so using them will also guarantee a better action range.

 

 

So, you can now choose almost any brand model or type of bridge in metric size as a replacement for your worn or otherwise

inadequate sheraton II bridge, just check bushing size and type against the original.

 

It will fit easily, fit well, and may improve performance and looks.

 

I would like to also note that I replaced the worn tailpiece on my sheri, and the new one do not fall off when you loosen the strings.

In fact, once it's on there, you have a heck of time getting it off it's posts. Very tight.

So you may not need the locking type tail.

 

And, you can drill a hole in the side of a bridge, tap it, and install a set screw, so it locks, or the tailpiece, just like tone pros.

I don't know if that's less costly, and it would take some care and proper tools. But it's an option.

 

TWANG

[EpiSheriMan]

Wow,...this looks super complicated!!! Not sure if a non-DIY guy (Like me!!) willbe able to figure this out!!!

 

Regardless,..... I really wanted to thank you TWANG for taking the time to do all this. Photos and all...

 

You are a star!!

:D/

 

I hope it works on mine.....

[TWANG]

It should. It's really very simple.

loosen strings.

remove old bridge.

 

Now.. I didn't tell how to replace bushings so I'll do that now.

 

You go to the hardware store, and get a bolt the same size as fits the bushing, but longer.

by an inch.

you screw it into the bushing, and as it bottoms out, it starts to push the bushing up and out.

when the bushing is out enough to pull on the bolt and it all comes out..

you then just push in the new bushing.

 

this is usually done by a drill press.. but you don't need to do it that way.

The bushing hole is a little bit looser from having the bushing in and out, so just put the new bushing in,

and press.

If it wont go all the way in by finger pressure

place a screwdriver upside down.. soft plastic handle on the bushing..

tap the other end of the driver with another screwdriver handle..

just tap tap tap not hard.

and it will go right in.

 

Once the bushing is in you put in your new posts.

just barely.. as tall as they'll go while still not falling over.

then put the bridge on.

the looseness at the top allows you to get the spacing correct and the bridge fits right on.

 

then with the bridge tight on the posts, you lower one side then the other bit by bit.. until the bridge is lowered down to the

bushing tops.

remember to keep an eye on the post tops as the bridge will tend to work up just a bit as you lower the posts.

just press it back down with fingers.

 

After that, you string it up and tune, then readjust the bridge up, if need be, to get the action you want.

 

I always do this: adjust the new bridge saddles forward or backward, copying the old ones, so that you have as little

intonation adjustment to do when it's in as possible.

 

It's ALWAYS better to loosen a string before you move the intonation screw. String pressure is enough to actually strip this screw.

I don't know how many tele and strat owners I've seen who don't do this and then complain the bridge is cheap.

No, the screw threads are small. the pressure is a lot. and stripping the threads is easy to do.

So loosen the string, adjust the bridge saddle, then retune.

I use an old set of strings, set the intonation, then put on new strings and double check. That way, the old strings take all the abuse of

tuning way up and way down.

Also, when you raise a bridge, it's better to loosen the strings at least somewhat.. say a step or step and a half.. the bridge will move much easier that way and it's also easier on the threads.

 

 

glad to be of help.

 

TWANG

 

TWANG

[sledge57]

Wow' date='...this looks super complicated!!! Not sure if a non-DIY guy (Like me!!) willbe able to figure this out!!!

 

Regardless,..... I really wanted to thank you TWANG for taking the time to do all this. Photos and all...

 

You are a star!!

:D/

 

I hope it works on mine.....

 

 

[/quote']

 

Looking for the "tongue in cheek smiley" you're kidding about difficult right?

 

If not I wouldn't be too worried, this is about as simple looking as it gets.

 

I do have a concern though Twang, how much wider or narrower is the "metric" bridge you are using? I mean the distance between the holes.

 

I'm concerned by the pressure that might be imposed on the top when you tighten it all down. As the new bridge is forcing the posts apart or pulling them together.

 

If we're only talking a few thousandths of an inch here shouldn't be a problem but I'd hate to see a stress crack develop in a guitar top after some time by the force of the bridge.

 

I wish I had an original and and after market one to measure, I could tell you EXACTLY the difference in size (CMM technician and the machines I work on are accurate to about 40 millionths of an inch, .00004)

 

If I get around to changing mine some day I'll measure it.

[TWANG]

I wouldn't be worried about damage at all.

the difference is shown in that fuzzy first pic.

I have a larger one on my photobucket.

I'd say about a pencil lead.. a bit less.

You can pull it off with your fingers even when it's all the way down.

Just doesn't seem that tight.

The posts are made to turn in the bridge holes..

the post screws are made to turn in the bushings..

between the two of them, they leave enough room to do this with very little pressure.

It fits tight, but not over tight.

 

Lets put it this way.. when you screw it down, it turns easy..

it's only when you take one side down too far that you start to feel it pushing/pulling the other side.

 

Safe as houses.

 

TWANG

ps.

hey.. epis are not all that accurate.. I'm sure there's a korean samick out there somewhere that had the bushings set too close or too far for

this to be as easy as mine. But judging by experience, I'd say even they would take this mod with no problem.

 

good question though!

[EpiSheriMan]

I wouldn't be worried about damage at all.

 

So that what the first picture is of! Both bridges on top of each other??? :)

[TWANG]

Yeah.. it shows, barely, that the hole isn't round with the stock bridge under it.

I couldn't quite get the interior clear but you get the idea.

It really isn't much difference. But it's too much difference IF the posts are deep in the bushings.

Raise them up and the pressure isn't all that great.

It's really not like it's forcing the bushings to press the top wood..

And you know.. that wouldn't be much anyway, because the wood will give, and the bushings have a circle around them

that's unfinished. You can't crack the wood, you can't affect the top, and you can't affect the finish.

 

 

the bushings are serrated edges.. they have some clearance.

In fact, on mine they are fairly loose compared to chinese epis which are much much tighter.

Combined with the threads not being perfectly tight, this works out quite well.

 

TWANG

[EpiSheriMan]

 

Guys, call me stupid but I'm not buying this!

 

If you look at my pictures, there is no possible way that this new AllParts roller bridge is going to "screw down' Using the original Sheri bridge posts! It goes against logic? I tried to screw the posts down to drop the bridge but it just gets stuck. I'm afraid that if I force it I'll do perment damage

 

Any thoughts?

 

[EpiSheriMan]

 

In this one you can see the angle of the post...

 

No way that's gonna screw down!

[TWANG]

yeah. clearly your posts are not straight up and down.

as a matter of fact, both posts seem to lean toward the outside.

That has increased the distance at the end, enough that the wiggle room is no longer enough to

allow the new bridge to settle on the post ends.

 

As I said in my explanation, epis are different enough that the difference between how the bushing are set could

cause a problem on a given guitar.

 

your post that isn't all the way through the bridge, is partly through.

You've got some room, but not enough.

A simple way to fix that is pull the bushing back out.

Check that hole to see if it's straight.. which we know it isn't, correct it.

Shim it a tad on the other side.

replace the bushing and you're good to go.

 

From the very first you said you couldn't understand this, when it was perfectly clear.

You expressed great trepidation, indicating a lack of confidence in your own skills, but went forward anyway.

The problem you have is very minor. And easily fixed to good result.

Just be patient.

Look. use your eyes. use your common sense.

 

And by the way, this is exactly what I mean about these epis, and most other guitars.

Which I've been saying all along about almost any part we've talked about.

I've not built a guitar that had precut body routes that didn't have some small problem somewhere.

You can take apart nearly any guitar and find measurements that are a tad off here and there.

 

I can't be there to do these things for you, but please don't try to intimate I'm wrong about it, especially not after

I've showed it can be successfully done.

You just have another step to add to the process, due to epis varying a bit as to the accuracy.. not because my way is inaccurate, but because

the guitars simply differ.

 

Never force anything. Just reexamine your tolerances and adjust.

 

Removing a bit of wood in the bushing hole is not hard to understand, and not hard to do.

Any round file will cut enough for you to get the few thousandths of an inch you need for this to work.

 

If you're not competent enough to hold a file straight without scratching your guitar, you shouldn't be doing this in

the first place. We both know you can.

 

 

TWANG

 

 

 

 

Don't tell me you're not buying the idea, after I posted picture in which it worked perfectly.

Instead just face the problem you have on your guitar.

[EpiSheriMan]

Don't tell me you're not buying the idea' date=' after I posted picture in which it worked perfectly.

Instead just face the problem you have on your guitar.

 

[/quote']

 

TWANG,..I'm not saying it won't work on some guitars. It clearly did on yours. And I would be so happy if it did on mine!!!

 

I'm just saying in my post above that mine must have different spacing,..and that therefore your method unfortunately won't work on mine? Do you agree......or am I still doing something wrong in your opinion?

 

From you last post I understand that you think that if I file the bushing holes in wood just a little, I should get the spacing I need....

[TWANG]

Yes. you're not following through.

the posts on yours point slightly outward.. they aren't straight.

The bushings went in ok, but they are slightly angled, which causes more distance than on mine.

 

On my sheri there was a worse mistake made in manufacture.

You can pull one of my bushing out by hand.. just grab the post and it comes out easy.

 

they drilled the hole at the right angle, but made it too big.

 

On yours they drilled the hole at the wrong angle.

close enough for the original bridge.

So a slight increase in hole size.. actually you're just going to fix the angle.. will do it.

 

and it's easy, too.

 

put masking tape double thick around the hole from the edge to about two inches out.

that way any slip you might make will not endanger your top finish.

 

Look very closely at the angle the posts come out of the bushings.

One should be at more of an angle than the other, most probably.

 

Start with the worst one.

carefully file so that the post will be more straight..

just take a bit off..

then put the bushing back in..

then the post..

it may not even move at first.. that is the bushing will probably be quite tight somewhere..

what you want to do is leave the top edge alone.. so that when the bushing is in and the post it CAN move inward allowing the bridge to

be lowered.

lower the bridge.

If it's still tight you have to take some more off.

 

If it's a fair amount, eventually you'll have a post thats somewhat loose..

that's fixed with toothpicks in a half circle on the other side of the bushing.. so that the bushing moves tight against where you took

the material off and is filled in by the hardwood toothpicks on the side it moves away from.

 

small increments are what counts here.

a pain in the butt. I know!

hey, I worry over everything I do, even when I've done it twenty times.

It's good stress! Love your guitar, take your time.

 

I can't say exactly how I'd do yours. not having the guitar here.. I suspect I'd do a little on one side, then a little on the other.

 

that way I'd probably never have to use any shim at all. It's that close. you can see it is, I bet!

 

The post spacing is ok.. I'm sure of that.. it's the angle of the posts due to slightly incorrect bushing hole.

 

Now.. the camera could be playing tricks on me.. BUT it really is the same problem anyway.

use a round file. less than pinky finger size.

fine threads cut slower.

not much pressure, just sort of rubbing the wood off.

expect to cut deeper INSIDE the hole than at the edge.. in fact leave the edge alone.

go round in it a half circle.

I bet if you shine a light in the hole, you'll see how the orig. bushing fits.. that is, you may very well be able to see

where it is tighter in some places.

 

And check back with me as you go.

I'll do my best to walk you through it.

 

Still.. a guitar tech of almost any ability would help a lot if you know someone.

 

TWANG

[TWANG]

by the way if I seem defensive, I apologise.

I think I'm still in argument mode from you know what.

 

Not like me.. beg pardon.

TWANG

[EpiSheriMan]

by the way if I seem defensive' date=' I apologise.

I think I'm still in argument mode from you know what.

 

Not like me.. beg pardon.

TWANG[/quote']

 

...No problem TWANG, no apology required

:)

[EpiSheriMan]

Still.. a guitar tech of almost any ability would help a lot if you know someone.

 

TWANG

 

..I think I may go down this route. I'm really crap at DIY!!!!

:)

[TWANG]

Then it's good. Don't give up though, that can be done and work out really nice

TWANG

[TWANG]

Then it's good. Don't give up though, that can be done and work out really nice

TWANG

[epicac]

Sherry Bridge Modders:

 

I went chrome on a sheraton II 1997. I bought I think 2 "metric" bridges from allparts. They don't fit.Period. I went to national chain guitar stores and ASKED for genuine Epiphone replacement parts to get a chrome unit. Dead end.

 

I've read how some guys mod the body, others hog out the bridge. Nasty business.

 

I found an EXACT fit samick style tune-o-matic bridge from WD. The part number is GE103DC chrome or GE103DG gold.

 

Twang, I wonder if the roller saddles would fit in this rig and make the whole thing work out without undue tension on your bushings...maybe test one of your new saddles on your original bridge before dumping any cash?

 

http://www.wdmusic.com/tuneomatic_bridge_chrome_ge103dc.html

 

Hope I'm not too late to help out.

 

Epicac