Sheraton II Bridge question

[BSAKing]

This may be a dumb question (or it may not for that matter).

 

I was just comparing my two Sheratons here and on both the string guides on the bridge are sort of wedge shaped with a slope on one side.

 

Now - on the 2008 EPI, the bridge has the 3 low strings with the slope facing the neck, the 3 high strings have it facing the tailpiece. On the 2006, it has the slope on all of them facing the tailpiece..

 

I am thinking this may have an impact on intonation or playability, but maybe not.

 

Does anyone happen to know how these things are supposed to be positioned according to the factory, or does it make any difference? And if so why?;)

 

Also, on the new 2008, the adjustment screws have the slot on the side facing the neck, on the 1996, they face the tailpiece. Same questions.

 

Twang? Anyone?

 

TIA BSA

[lostindesert]

The slope facing the bridge would be the best way for proper intonation.

Sometimes the bridge isn't placed correctly and will turning a saddle around give you

more room to adjust intonation, especially on the G and D strings.

As for the adjustment screws there is no right way, i like mine facing the neck.

 

Peter

[vomer]

Pretty much what lostindesert says. I have three each way on my tuneamatics, with the screws facing the neck. Apparently having the screws facing the other way can have the strings catching on the screws if the tailpiece is low down, on some guitars.

[TWANG]

you mean the saddles..

they normally are supposed to angle up from the tail piece. so that they break off the sharp edge on the fret side..

that's to insure a clean no buzzing tone from the string.. and to decrease the amount of tension at the saddle top..IOW if it were just a

sharp peak on both sides of the saddle, then the windings would tend to catch.. with a slope.. they tend to slide better.

on plain strings, this prevents a flat spot.. which can turn into a break.

 

some people have found the saddles wont move enough for intonation with their choice in string guage.. so they

reverse three of them..

the lower saddles, as on an acoustic, are farther back than the higher strings saddles..so they get reversed.

 

I don't like it, because it's bad logic.

you would then have the string windings which run sideways.. running straight into a sharp edge.. this will weaken the winding as you tune the string tighter and tighter.

 

A much better idea is to remove the saddle.. after scoring it with something sharp.. right along the line with the top of the bridge and the saddle adjusted all the way back..

file down the base part of the saddle.. so it will, when installed, actually push its top part over the lip or edge of the bridge..

but will keep the angle.. the softer side.. of the bridge saddle toward the tail, allowing the string to pass more effortlessly forward.

 

However. lots of people do it. and they don't break strings.

 

still I consider it a mistake. there should be enough travel room in the first place to not force anyone to 'fix' the thing.

so I always try to find a bridge with greater saddle travel.

 

Adjustment screws facing the rear are handier.. you tend to bump into the pickup when they face the neck.

or the lack of room makes you strip the screw head.

 

the worst thing is people who don't reduce string tension before adjusting for height or intonation.. you should always do that.

 

I remove my stock bridge saddles.. then I lube the screw..

then I file the saddle edges down so they have no sharp shoulders.. which catch on your palm..

then, while out, I run the screw all the way into the saddle and back to where it should be.. spreading the lube.

If I have to I file the saddle base to a thickness that allows enough travel to intonate..

remember if you do this.. start the screw from the other side. the side you didn't file on.. that way burrs, if there are any, are pushed out

of the saddle not into it, causing it to mess up the threads.

 

another thing you can do is carefull drill a hole in the side of the tail or bridge..

just slightly forward of center..

then tap it..

then put a hex head screw in.. voila.. locking bridge and tail.

 

then, since you spent ten bucks on the tap.. do it for your friends for five bucks each.

ah! FREE locking tail and bridge!

 

just be careful drilling and don't chip the chrome.

practice on your neighbors bumper next time he's watching football and has the tv up loud.

 

TWANG