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Strings Height


s-hoch

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when you raise a string.. you have to push it down more to fret it..

that means you're stretching the string..so it will be sharper when you do that.

when you lower the string, the opposite effect. it will be flatter.

 

You can do whatever you want.. but then you have to readjust your bridge saddles to reintonate.

 

tune the open string to pitch.

then play it at the 12th fret

it should be the same.

if sharp.. move that strings bridge saddle back.. that will flatten it.

be sure to not move the saddle using the screw while the string is tuned to pitch and resting on the saddle.

You can mess up your screw threads by having that much pressure on them.

so detune.. lift string off.. move saddle back a bit, then put the string back on the saddle slot and

retune and recheck open to 12th fret.

 

if it's flat at the 12th fret compared to open. then you have to move the bridge forward. meaning toward the nut.

same process as above, but in reverse.

 

having action higher than normal makes it difficult to get the intonation correct.. so you can only go so far before you are asking the laws

of physics more than they can do.

 

But I doubt you want really really high action so.. *s*

 

tWANG

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when you raise a string.. you have to push it down more to fret it..

that means you're stretching the string..so it will be sharper when you do that.

when you lower the string' date=' the opposite effect. it will be flatter.

 

You can do whatever you want.. but then you have to readjust your bridge saddles to reintonate.

 

tune the open string to pitch.

then play it at the 12th fret

it should be the same.

if sharp.. move that strings bridge saddle back.. that will flatten it.

be sure to not move the saddle using the screw while the string is tuned to pitch and resting on the saddle.

You can mess up your screw threads by having that much pressure on them.

so detune.. lift string off.. move saddle back a bit, then put the string back on the saddle slot and

retune and recheck open to 12th fret.

 

if it's flat at the 12th fret compared to open. then you have to move the bridge forward. meaning toward the nut.

same process as above, but in reverse.

 

having action higher than normal makes it difficult to get the intonation correct.. so you can only go so far before you are asking the laws

of physics more than they can do.

 

But I doubt you want really really high action so.. *s*

 

tWANG[/quote']

 

Your method is straight forward and simple. Is it necessary to tune the 12th fret harmonic also? I have seen several intonation instructions that include that.

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Should be' date=' what kind is it?

 

Also, turn down the tone on the guitar when tuning. This will help cut out the harmonic overtones so that the tuner can zero in on the fundamental. :-)

 

Matt[/quote']

 

Use your neck pickup for setting intonation, tone control at zero.

 

Peter

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the harmonic should be close.. but it's the fretted note that you wind up playing ten times more.

 

I wont argue with neck pup or tone down.. but

do you play there all the time?

check against the bridge.. and what the machine can hear you can hear.. so check with tone up, too.

 

you'll find what works best for you.

TWANG

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I like a tuner with a needle that reads in cents for setting up intonation. The tuners with lights aren't really accurate enough for that job. Seiko makes a pocket size tuner with an electronic needle that reads in cents for around $30. It's small enough to fit in your shirt pocket and accurate enough to adjust intonation.

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Should be' date=' what kind is it?

 

Also, turn down the tone on the guitar when tuning. This will help cut out the harmonic overtones so that the tuner can zero in on the fundamental. :-)

 

Matt[/quote']

 

In doing that (turning down the tone) you should also use your neck pickup (rhythm).

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