incredibledisc Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Hi there, I have been away from this forum so long that I had to create a new account! Hello everyone. I have a 1996 Samick Sheraton II and the gold hardware is starting to look a little worn out. I wanted to get some replacements for the machine heads (was thinking grovers) and the bridge/stop bar - thought about a roller bridge. If I was feeling extra brave I might have a go at chainging the pickups out - I put some Seth Lover Paf's into my Epi Les Paul and it really brought it to life. However... from searching threads on this site I get the impression I might have a problem replacing the bridge on the Sherry due to Samick using different size parts. Can somebody put me straight on this issue or advise me where I can find replacements - I'm based in the UK. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISirius42 Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 I did an upgrade on my Samick 95 or 96 Sheriton II just last year. I did everything except the bridge and stop piece because of the problem that you noted. The links in this forum were EXTREMELY helpful. Here is a link to a thread that I have in my bookmarks: http://forums.epiphone.com/Default.aspx?g=posts&t=3614 I replaced the tuners with Grover locking tuners and they were an exact match. I replaced the pickups with Lindy Fralin Pure PAFs and gutted the electronics for switch craft switches and plug, Orange drop caps, braided cable, and Alpha mini pots (see the cautions about using standard size pots--they won't fit in the f hole). I built a cardboard template of the guitar face and holes and soldered and tested everthing on the cardboard template. Someone on the forum posted a copy of a Gibson 335 electronics harness, and I followed it as a soldering guide. I've been very happy with the results. The only thing left for me to do is update the bridge and tailpiece--the gold hazes almost soon as I clean it. This is not the case with the Grover knobs or the Fralin covers. Most threads I've been able to find say that it is a dead end--unless you want to redrill holes. I'll be watching this thread to see if things have changes. Another note on my Sheri. For years, mine was a disappointment because I could not play an open chord and have the notes be in tune. Bar chords worked fine. Finally, I had the guitar professionally set up. The guitar tech totally reworked the nut and now it plays in tune. I wonder if you or others had the same problem. If so, there is a cure. Take care and good luck with the upgrades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
incredibledisc Posted February 16, 2010 Author Share Posted February 16, 2010 Excellent response - many thanks. Looks like I'll just change out the machine heads for the moment then maybe the pickups if I dare work with the f-holes. My buddy has done quite a bit if modding to his own guitars so he should keep me right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewy1281734128 Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 i used the bridge and tailpiece from my epi sg, as the gold was looking old. however they looked the same size but im sure they're VERY slightly different because i had to change them back, for some reason the tuning wouldnt stick in either guitars. SD 59 in the bridge, gibson 57 in the neck. switching the pick guard to a black one (getting this made up) the difference is amazing. plus i put locking grovers on, very easy to do. went from a good guitar to one i love and will keep for a long, long time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strumbone Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 I changed out the bridge and tailpiece on my '98 MIK Sherri with parts from forum member Twang...no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 But the key question is Strum was your post spacing the dreaded 71-72 or the more normal 74mm..... my 87, 89, Sherri's are the dreaded lesser variety... 74mm large bushing bridges are readily available... http://store.guitarfetish.com/labutustgobr.html this might be useful as a reference for how to measure post spacings etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
incredibledisc Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 Once again - thank you for your amazingly detailed responses to my question. I notice I fogot to mention tuning in response to Isirius42's post - I find the G tends to go out way more than any other string. I have thought about a nut replacement in the past but had a hard time finding anyone here in Aberdeen who was willing to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MykWiz Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 I think the G-string out-of-tune phenomenon is rather typical with the stock nut. I know it is on mine. That's why I ordered a Graphtech TUSQ nut from www.stewmac.com and plan on replacing it myself. ~MW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noijj Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Hi, welcome back to the forum, I recently changed every part my 2000 Samick Sheraton 2 blonde from stock so hope I can help you out. Bridge spacing is key. Don't assume you're screwed because it's a Samick! Mine had the the 74mm spacing. Take it off and measure it. Follow Joe's instruction pictures. If it's 74mm you're in easy street. Check out axesrus or wdmusic, both very good UK online parts vendors and have TOM and rolloers to fit. Look for 74mm, large bushings. However, if it's 71-72mm you have a few options only. 1. WD have a bridge that will fit in chrome only but it will give you a slightly higher action so will need an easy to do modification. 2. Work with what you've got, take them off and polish them well, they may come up better than you expect. Failing that you could use a cup full of oven cleaner (the caustic kind) and leave them in to soak for a good while to strip all the gold off and back to nickel. At least then you'll not have tarnished gold. 3. It will need re-driling to accomodate a wider range of options (I don't really recomend this unless you know a very good tech, and it sounds like you don't if noone in the area will even swap a nut for you). I highly recommend pickups and electrics change. It by far the most revealing upgrade you can do. Anything form the GFS range through Kent Armstrong to Gibson and Seymour Duncan will be a huge difference for the better. Not discounting humbucker size P90's and Filtertrons than can also be retrofitted in one or both of the humbucker spaces along with or instead of PAF style. While you're doing the pickups, the other weak part is the pots, switch, jack, so change them too for CTS/Switchcraft parts. Not expensive and much more reliable. As for your nut, yes, change it too. Tusq or bone not. You can get them pre cut but it's better to get one fitted by a gtr. tech really. Grovers are the obvious tuner replacement and will fit right on no problem. Rotomatic or Imperials would be my recommendation. They are a little pricey (will be your 2nd biggest expense after pickups) but worth it for tuning stability. The sky's the limit with your changes really. Different knobs, pick up rings, toggle switch tip, add a toggle switch ring etc. etc. Those are all cosmetic but a guitar is supposed to be a thing of beauty not just a tool, right? So why not stamp your individuality on it with a range of subtle changes? If you're not too bothered (or addicted to meddling like me!), I would suggest a. see what your bridge situation is so this informs what you do from there, that will determine whether you want gold or chrome for your bridge, tail, tuners. b. replace your tuners. c. tusq or bone nut replacement d. get it set up for action and intonation always when messing with the bridge (it's pretty easy to do this yourself too if you follow youtube how to videos etc). e. get some new pickups and electrics in there, you won't regret it. d. the rest is up to you. You'll find it a very rewarding project whatever you decide to do. Don't forget to report back with you results or any further questions. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
incredibledisc Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 Many thanks Noijj - that all sounds like excellent advice. I might have a lead on a tech that can help with some of the things I'v mentioned and like I said in my original post I have a friend who has done some modding on his own guitars and knows his way around a soldering iron far better than me! I really like my Sheraton even though its my 3rd choice for playing on stage - I have an Epi LP which is kind my workhorse and a Rickenbacker 360/12. The odd thing is when I'm at home and want to pick up a guitar to fool around and try out ideas its the Sheraton I always seem to pick up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noijj Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 I know what you mean, they can be very versatile and playable guitars as they are. In fact, the build quality and finish of body and neck is so good on those Korean Sheratons that with the right upgrades you can effectively go very close to Gibson at a fraction of the cost. That was the appeal for me. I now have 2 Korean Sheratons, the blonde with filtertron neck/PAF bridge (gives a gretsch/guild sort of sound) and a a sunburst I'm currently putting P90's in. Same starting point, different directions. Both really fun to play without a. spending too much dough and b. getting so paranoid about damaging an expensive guitar you hardly ever play it! The electrics are fiddly to replace but if your mate is up for it there are good instructions on you tube for working through the f-holes that you need to pay attention too before you try! Other than that and little patience you'll be fine. You've clearly looked at all the forums on the subject of Sheraton Mods. so you know what can be acheived. Don't forget to check back once you've done it and let us know how you got on. If you find you need the WD part for the 71mm spaced bridge, I have one for sale, unused, you can have for a tenner. A mistake I made by assuming I needed it before measuring the one coming off (duh!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISirius42 Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Thanks for starting this thread. I'm getting a lot out of the great responses. Here are a couple of more links relative to my recent Sheri upgrade: Here is the electronics schematic I used: http://www.gibson.com/Files/schematics/sheratonII%20wiring.JPG Here is a forum post that contains a great picture of a ES-335 harness. I tried to make my harness look similar. http://forums.epiphone.com/Default.aspx?g=posts&t=3495 Here is a video for installing a Mojo harness--If you make your own harness, you can use similar techniques to remove and install yours. In my project, I used dental floss as guide lines--it's what I had around in the form of strong string. I watched this video a couple of times and decided that I could do it (again, with the forum scouting report that the Mojo full size pots might not fit through my f holes and that mini pots were probably needed. As it turned out, the originals were mini pots). I'm trying to figure out how to post pictures. If I figure that out, I'll try posting. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISirius42 Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Just figured out how to post pictures. Here is a picture of the orginal harness that came out of my Sheri: Here is the harness I soldered on my cardboard rig (the black stuff is shrink tubing that I used to help reduce chances of shorting) : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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