SabbathFan0220 Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 Hi all, I'm new to this forum. I have a question about repairing the lacquer on my black Epi LP Custom. I'm sure this is a common question, but I can't find what I need here already. I need to find the lacquer that will melt into the old finish for a seamless repair, like is done on easily guitars with nitro finishes. I know the shortcut tricks (nail polish, super glue, etc.) but this is a larger area that needs to be repaired, and the only way to do it right will be to spray a couple new coats. Anyone done this? Can anyone recommend a product that works? I've tried the stuff from StewMac as well as Deft, Rust Oleum, and Minwax lacquers with no luck. Maybe a clearcoat made for auto work? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midiman56 Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 Hey, Sabbath ... welcome to the forum! I think part of the problem, and it may only be one of semantics, is the fact that I doubt very strongly that your guitar has a lacquer finish in the first place. Most likely your guitar has a poly finish on it (polyester, polyurethane, or a urethanenamal). These finishes, which are found on most imports and American made electrics made after the mid 60's. Once these finishes dry they are very hard and when cured no solvent that I know of will soften them, which means it will not dissolve or melt into itself. So with this in mind it makes it almost impossible to make invisible repairs (though it can be done). So for touch-ups use super glue. Now ... that's as far as I know. Let's see what some of the other members can suggest! Good luck! Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peeper Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 MIDI pretty much nailed it. You have two options with this stuff. Hit the chip with superglue and live with the results after scraping level and polishing, or sand it down and start over. There is no burn in for poly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SabbathFan0220 Posted February 28, 2010 Author Share Posted February 28, 2010 Thanks MIDIMan and Musikron. I had no idea there was no such fix for poly. I had heard it was easier to repair nitro...this must be why. So when they shoot on the clearcoat initially at the factory, each layer just sits on top of the one underneath? Because with nitro I know each progressive layer melts into the last one. That's interesting (and frustrating in this case...). I guess I can coat the damaged area in very thin layers of superglue, sand, and buff. I was just hoping there was a better way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peeper Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 What do you mean coat the damaged area? What type of damage we talking? A chip, crack, gouge, other. Pics could help. Don't go putting superglue on your guitar unless you know what you're doing. It is much more involved than I just stated, and takes experience to pull off. Superglue is NOT for noobs.You can jack your axe all up this way. I was just mentioning one way a professional might tackle the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midiman56 Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 It's just the "double-edged sword" of poly-coated guitars. Tough-as-nails but a real ***** kitty to fix if you do manage to take a chunk out of it. How bad is the damage we're talking about? Lot's of player equate damage with "mojo" ... some even buy new guitars that are pre-trashed. I say, find a cool sticker to cover it or come up with a really exciting story about how it happened and then play the crap outta that axe! You don't have to worry about keeping it perfect any more ... Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SabbathFan0220 Posted February 28, 2010 Author Share Posted February 28, 2010 It's just a scratch, down to the wood, but not too deep. I've done superglue repairs before, so don't worry about that. I know I can get it really good, I just wish there were a top coat I could put on to get it really seamless. I can learn to live it if its impossible of course. Luckily I found a perfect color match to go under the superglue. I tried various paints and nail polishes and got one that's dead on. I'll put a dab of that on the exposed wood, then fill with superglue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peeper Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 You can do that, just keep going back and adding more glue after curing till its mounded over a bit, then level with a scraper, wet sand and polish. You can make superglue look like glass if you do it right and use the right compounds and buffing bonnets. The only way you know its there is the edges, and you can never get rid of that with poly. So you have to live with it a little, and don't try to cover it up with a layer of anything cause you can't. Fill and level the scratch, sand and buff to high gloss, it is what it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SabbathFan0220 Posted February 28, 2010 Author Share Posted February 28, 2010 Thanks, Musikron. That 'edge' is the reason for my posting. I'm pretty anal about the small stuff. I guess I'll just do a good polishing job and live with it. You guys have been really helpful, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AS90 Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 You can drop fill with wipe on poly! Just use a matchstick and carefully apply it thinly along the scratch making sure it sits slightly proud. Once dry, sand flat and polish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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