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Epiphone Action specs: 6/64 on the low E.. Really?


Kestrel

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Hi everyone, got a question to ask. I was tweeking the action on a G-400 to eliminate some minor fret buzz at the high frets and I looked at Epiphone's specs on bridge height for electrics (measured from the 12th fret) which states: 6/64 on the low E (bass side) and 4/64 on the high E (treble side). Raising the bridge to Epiphone specs fixed the buzz problem, but the action appears a little higher than what I'm used to. Gibson specs are 5/64 on the low E and 3/64 on the high. Just wondering, why the different specs on Epiphones?

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Cannot answer the WHY, but set 'em as low as you like as

long as you don't get fret buzz. I have both my Epis set to

4/64ths Lo E, 3/64ths Hi E. Perhaps it's a secret plot to ensure

Epis don't play as fast as Gibbys.... Hmmmmm.:-({|=

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I know string height is a matter of personal preference. Just curious about the variation between Gibson and Epiphone specs. I suppose Epiphone's 6/64 spec is ideal for those with a heavy hand. Gibson's specs feel about right to me. The guitar is still playable, though. I'll just lower the action a bit to see how low it can get without any buzz.

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I just put a new set of 11's with a wound G string on my Casino over the weekend. I set it up to 4/64ths Lo E, 3/64ths Hi E and I have great action with no buzz.... Neck relief is about .05.

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Can anyone tell 1/64" worth of difference?? I have never ever measured action' date=' just adjusted it to what works for me. Only thing I've ever used feeler guages for is setting contact points in car distributors.

 

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I am an analytical/measuring type person, but I think you're right. I went to a guitar set-up clinic, and the guy running it did it all by sight and feel. After tweaking it, my action is low, with no fret buzzing using 10 - 46 strings.

 

I don't think I could tell 1/64" difference.

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Can anyone tell 1/64" worth of difference?? I have never ever measured action' date=' just adjusted it to what works for me. Only thing I've ever used feeler guages for is setting contact points in car distributors.

 

[/quote']

 

Yep.... I can, but mostly on my Acoustic guitars where a 1/64" difference can mean a lot due to the heavier gauge strings (not to mention my 49 year old fingers! #-o ) I also play up the neck with my fingerstyle pieces as well though. It would make no difference if all I played were open chords on the first few frets. On an electric guitar with lighter gauge strings, it probably makes less of a difference as well.

 

Using my trusty 17 year old Taylor acoustic as a guide, (It has always had the best action of any acoustic guitar I have ever played) I keep all three of my acoustics action nice and low with no buzz. I end up using a small ruler with the proper sizing (both metric and 1/64" at a time) and I use feeler gauges to make sure my necks stay at the proper relief. I live in Minnesota where humidity levels and temps can wreck havoc on guitars, but by properly humidifying during the winter and keeping the acoustics cased, I can minimize or almost eleminate any need for adjustments other than small tweaks. I won't try adjusting the nut as I don't have proper tools, but I have no problem adjusting a high bone saddle on an acoustic to the proper height. It is much easier on an electric in my opinion due to the adjustable bridges and such.

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