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No tone on my Epi G400!


DMC59

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I e-mailed StewMac and they'll switch out the toggle switch -- I'm unclear if they have a better fitting jack, but I can always enlarge the hole a bit. Their customer service is great and I'm glad to hear of their parts quality. I received my hatbox knobs yesterday -- just 2 business days! They ship fast once they have your order.

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I e-mailed StewMac and they'll switch out the toggle switch -- I'm unclear if they have a better fitting jack, but I can always enlarge the hole a bit. Their customer service is great and I'm glad to hear of their parts quality. I received my hatbox knobs yesterday -- just 2 business days! They ship fast once they have your order.

S/M has the best customer service, the best parts (Switchcraft) and the best website with tutorials, books, videos, etc. Their Fender parts are ultra heavy-duty, about twice the weight of most of the commercially available stuff, and the plating is far better too. The only thing I don't like about S/M is their pricing. But ya gets what ya pays for.

 

You will need to carefully enlarge the jack hole to fit the Switchcraft jack. The correct tool to do this is the General Tool No. 130 T-handle reamer, available for about $12:

 

ReamerNo130.jpg

 

Or, if you're feeling spendy, you can get the Stew-Mac pro woodworker reamers for $50 to $100: http://www.stewmac.c...ictures#details

 

Some folks here have used drill bits, but you run the risk of chipping the finish....even with a hand reamer you should put masking tape over the hole to reduce the likelyhood of an unsightly boo boo...

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You will need to carefully enlarge the jack hole to fit the Switchcraft jack. The correct tool to do this is the General Tool No. 130 T-handle reamer, available for about $12:

 

ReamerNo130.jpg

 

Or, if you're feeling spendy, you can get the Stew-Mac pro woodworker reamers for $50 to $100: http://www.stewmac.c...ictures#details

 

Some folks here have used drill bits, but you run the risk of chipping the finish....even with a hand reamer you should put masking tape over the hole to reduce the likelyhood of an unsightly boo boo...

Thanks for the info Brian -- The T-handle for $12.00 is more my speed -- financially, that is. I could see myself building or rebuilding a guitar if I had an actual workshop, but my workshop is a folding table in my one bedroom apartment! I still like reading the do-it-yourself posts tho.

 

You do get what you pay for -- tho I don't think I needed to spend $14.00 for the copper shielding "kit" at SM. I could have done better on that at GF -- altho there's that seperate shipping charge to consider.

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For enlarging the holes for jack and switch (and pots, as I went imperial - RS kit, to be precise) I used a Dremel with a sander head. Took some time, but hey, haste will chip the paint. Also, in the process I could slightly adjust the positions of the controls.

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