Doctorrero Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 Hi there, I recently got a EB-3 for my birthday. It is used, but in good condition and very nice to play ... my question is, if there is a manual or something simular availabe? Maybe as a pdf downmload? I Have some problems with the sound-adjusting! thanks for your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiomitch Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 This is probably as close as you're going to get: http://www.epiphone.com/images/EpiOwnrsManul.pdf Probably not too helpful. What problems are you experiencing? I and many others in this forum own that particular bass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommyb Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 I'll comment here as I own an EB-3 SG but I'm NOT really a bass player. I got it for home recording purposes and I can thump around on it like most guitar players can...but that doesn't make him/her a bass player! That knob with the three positions (reminds me of a knob on 1950's electric range...!!;-)) lets you choose bridge pup, neck pup, or both. I've found that I've made the mistake of making the tone TOO bassy...so I've been cranking up the treble a bit and I've even used the bridge pup alone a time or two. For bass solo work (which I don't do) I can't imagine any limitations with this bass, especially with that mini-hum at the bridge. I've made some recordings which sounded fine through phones, but played back on my high end stereo, the bass just took over the while thing....shook the floor, actually! Not really what I'm after. So, my point is, you need to experiment. I CAN say that for a $300 bass, it's just great, the quality belies that low price. Oh, if you gig with it, it is VERY neck-heavy...strap it on, let go of the neck, and the headstock goes right to the floor! Not a big deal for me, as I would never be hired as a bass player, and I'm always sitting down when I play it. There are counter-weighted straps on the market to help with this situation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hungrycat Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 For bass solo work (which I don't do) I can't imagine any limitations with this bass, especially with that mini-hum at the bridge. You'd be amazed at how terrible an EB-3 is for most things. I will give the Epi a leg up an the Gibson, because the Epi is long scale, but it's still not that versatile of a bass. For instance, you wouldn't really want to play funk on a EB-3. It's a quality instrument though, and If you wanna sound like Jack Bruce then it's perfect. But there's a reason that the Fender Jazz and Precision are the most popular basses on the planet... But if you like it, that that's great! Happy New Bass Day! I just really don't like most Gibson/Epi basses. Just don't get me started on the 3-point bridges or Thunderbirds. I'll rant more about those than I will the EB-3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hungrycat Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 Damn. That's an ugly guitar. Probably sounds better than a regular SG though. More mass in the body, ebony board... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hungrycat Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 Predictable response. I was actually refering to the horn length, not the overall aesthetics. Oh yeah, I knew that. I was just sayin'... Actually, I don't think it would be that bad if it had A.) an Explorer headstock and B.)lost the goofy giant pickguard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golem Posted September 29, 2010 Share Posted September 29, 2010 Move the strap button to the upper horn, like tony Iommi. That might help if you play with the neck dead level and truly horizontal .... but in the real world, with the neck angled up, that tip of the horn will be in vertical alignment with the neck heel, not "ahead" of it ... so the hang balance won't change. The dive might slow down as the neck falls thru horizontal position, but playing an angled neck still lays the same amount of weight on your fretting hand .... cuz at that angle, the upper horn tip is not any further forward than the traditional factory location of the front strap pin. IOW angling up moves it "back" ... toward the bridge. All measurements are relative to a vertical line thru the bass's center of gravity. With the bass in playing position, "vertical line" still means "straight toward earth", NOT meaning "at a right angle to the neck" ! This is cuz we're concerned here with gravity rather than with the symmetry of the bass's design. Like if you do fancy diving tricks, no matter how you twist and flip your body, "down" means "toward the water" and not "toward your feet". Again as always, your vertical line is not relative to your body shape, but is always pointed at the center of the planet's core. ------------------------------------ Warning: I never hesitate to drill holes in my ax ! I relocated my front strap pin to the lower corner of the neck heel cuz, except for the LOWER horn tip, thaz the most forward point on the body with the neck angled up. The lower horn tip is plainly not a practical location for the front strap pin, altho it would offer a greater reduction in neck dive. My ax is an SG short scale so the dive is not as extreme, but I was still moved to reduce it. I also moved the rear strap pin forward, by relocating it lower down the rear bout curve. It's not just the curve that creates the forward shift. An equal displacement higher instead of lower would at first appear to offer the same forward shift. BUT, when you angle the neck upward, the lower bout moves "forward", and the upper bout moves "back" ! You could also easily forward shift the rear pin by mounting it to the back side of the body, but then you'd be wise to use a strap lock, which is kinda bulky to have on the back of your ax ... but some players may not find it so bothersome as I would. If the back side deal were absolutely necessary for me ... frinstintz if I had 34" scale instead of my 30", I'd fit the strap to the back side with a screw and washer, to avoid the bulkiness of the strap lock. ` Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LouieLouie Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 That's a great idea about moving the forward strap button. I had the same problem with a Riviera guitar (semi-hollow) and there wasn't enough strength in the wood (stock) to do that. I formed a backup piece which was threaded thru the F-hole and glued in place. I'll just plan on doing the same move on the EB-3 only I can skip all the extra efforts. Ready for the glue Finished product Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaolee Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 I find that playing a Gibson bass in a near vertical position is the best way to avoid neck dive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
animalfarm Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 Scaring up EPI EB-3 Manuals ain't easy... only finding tidbits: http://www.flyguitars.com/epiphone/bass/ggc.php Audio Clip from Epi - EB-3: http://www.epiphone.com/media/EB0Groove.mp3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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