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Epiphone 1963 AJ-45


Kuroyama

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I found her and hard case online for $250

The saddle on this thing is as tall as the wood from the top of the guitar...

How much should I expect to pay for a shop to cut me a new bridge saddle and nut out of tusq or bone?

I expect she'll play much better/easier once I drop the action 1.5mm or so?

Sitting as is the big E string is a hair over 3mm above the 8th fret.

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@Dodgermod: They arent available here in Japan either! I bought mine used. It seems that Epiphone decided to halt production of this popular guitar... because it was popular? They do still make the same guitar in all black, red, or blue. Burst is no longer available. If I can find an MIJ AJ-45 and/or EL-00 (with the Gibson headstock shape and Epiphone name) I'll sell you this one if youre still interested.

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Same advise that I posted on the other forum for you.

http://thbecker.net/guitar_playing/guitars_and_setup/setup_page_05.html

This should get you started.Ship

Oh and I am not sure where you got the year from they started modelling the AJ-45's after the Gibson J-45, but they didn't start to make them till 1998-2000, and then re-made another one in 2002, so if someone told you it was earlier, well.

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Hadnt thought of sanding to a flat surface. Was worried about me goofing up the flat saddle bottom with a dremel... Just sand on the table! Simple application being the best choice! Ive learned something!

 

I had also assumed that the saddle was made of some plastic low end plastic just because of the name Epiphone, and because the pins are so low end they seem to have been made in a spork factory. Just judging the saddle by the company he kept... Bad call perhaps. Having pulled the bridge it doesn't feel much like plastic at all.

 

(Im new to acoustics and non-Japanese Epiphones) I dont know much about the quality that goes into "Custom Shop Epiphones" expect that they are on a par with the other used guitars in the price range $200-$300 I was looking in. I'd also read some good things, but nobody went into detail about what saddle and nut came from the factory.

 

Anyhow, I will try the saddle sanding. I didnt see a reason to swap the nut other than I suspected it was plastic... The pins however, if I can find better replacements tomorrow, I'll buy them.

 

Thank you for the money saving info (like I said, Im new to acoustics, but here in Japan, since they dont have a lot of drive -thrus... they always F you at guitar repair. Even though I speak the language fluently, when they start quoting those prices... its like theyre speaking Martian!! ($650 to install TVJ filtertrons in a Gretsch 6120! $2000 to inspect a Fender Twin) Smoking deals on electrics can be had pretty easily, but generally speaking they want a kidney and rights to your first born if you need any work done on it...

 

So thanks again!

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Oh and I am not sure where you got the year from they started modelling the AJ-45's after the Gibson J-45, but they didn't start to make them till 1998-2000, and then re-made another one in 2002, so if someone told you it was earlier, well.

 

"1963 AJ-45" is the name of the model (it was inspired by a '63 J-45), and not meant to indicate the year it was made. The 1963 AJ-45 was made around 2008, give or take a year. They were available in sunburst, black, and trans-red.

 

Red 333

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Quick thanks to everyone who pitched in. I already took 1.3mm off the saddle and almost have it restrung.

The nut and saddle seem to be FAR better than I gave them credit for. But the pins are nonsense.

I picked up some bone pins from pickboy... but they are ill fittin!!

 

So Google is my friend right? Seems like pins come in a VARIETY of sizes...

 

Ive still got some work to do.

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Good to hear that you are getting there and yes pins can get pretty tricky at times unless you order from someone who has done a whole bunch like Bob Colosi ( he's the king when it comes to saddles and nuts and different pins and different materials )so if you want fire off an e-mail to Bob and he'll know aht size pins you'll need for your Epi.

Okay now that you have the saddle down some ( not sure if you want to try this ) but you can try to cut the saddle slots a touch lower also to help with fingerpicking if you play that way if not I would leave it were it is, best of luck.Ship

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Good to hear that you are getting there and yes pins can get pretty tricky at times unless you order from someone who has done a whole bunch like Bob Colosi ( he's the king when it comes to saddles and nuts and different pins and different materials )so if you want fire off an e-mail to Bob and he'll know aht size pins you'll need for your Epi.

 

I can vouch for Bob - he made a bone saddle for my Taylor. He's highly regarded.

 

Okay now that you have the saddle down some ( not sure if you want to try this ) but you can try to cut the saddle slots a touch lower also to help with fingerpicking if you play that way if not I would leave it were it is, best of luck.Ship

 

Don't you mean "cut the nut slots a touch lower"?? If so, I wouldn't touch those slots unless they are actually high. Get 'em too low and you'll get some nasty buzzing.

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Turns out that sanding down the bridge saddle was about all that was needed! I do want to replace my very-low-end pins though. Im guessing that better pins than this came from the factory, but I did buy it used online. caveat emptor. The problem I have now is pin sizing. Ive already bought 3 packages of pins from as many local shops, and nothing fits as well as my sporktastic pins that came delivered with the guitar. I'd keep them but they are so low end (HOW LOW END ARE THEY?) - thank you, they are so low end that the tops arent even round! Just like two halves poorly glued together, except its all one molding. That and the bottom of the pins are kinda chewed up.

 

Will likely have to liberate the calipers from the office and order online somewhere.

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Thank you it was the nut slots that I was referring to Aubergine and Kuroyama contact Bob Colosi for your pins situation he'll know what size you need, personally I don't replace the pins unless they are wearing out, which will happen after so many years of changing strings and some ball ends just seem to be more wearing then others. Glad to hear sanding the saddle has helped and as I mentioned either get Bob to send you some pins or just leave it as is.Ship

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just found a black one on the local CL yesterday for $200. I sent the guy an email but he hasn't replied and the ad is still up. I'm dying to get it but so far no luck. Anybody else on here have one and if so what are your impressions of it?

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photo-72.jpg

 

photo-73.jpg

 

photo-74.jpg

 

I found her and hard case online for $250

The saddle on this thing is as tall as the wood from the top of the guitar...

How much should I expect to pay for a shop to cut me a new bridge saddle and nut out of tusq or bone?

I expect she'll play much better/easier once I drop the action 1.5mm or so?

Sitting as is the big E string is a hair over 3mm above the 8th fret.

That is a beautiful guitar! I am picking up a black one tomorrow for $200 and it has cream binding on the neck! Can't wait!

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Hmm. That IS tasty! I know the grass is always greener but I DO prefer those Grover machine heads as opposed to the white button tuners I have. The bigger knobs go better with the elongated headstock (as compared to the Gibbystock) I may have to pick some of those up!

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