Sinner 13 Posted September 4, 2011 Share Posted September 4, 2011 So I ordered a sheet of Tortoise Shell, and I was wondering what the best way to cut the pieces after I lay them out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andre S Posted September 4, 2011 Share Posted September 4, 2011 So I ordered a sheet of Tortoise Shell, and I was wondering what the best way to cut the pieces after I lay them out? Most would use a template and a router, with a beveled bit. I have used a jigsaw and cleaned up on a sanding drum. I have seen luthiers cut by hand as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Marsh Posted September 4, 2011 Share Posted September 4, 2011 If you're fortunate enough to have one an Epilog CO2 laser engraver is nice and precise - I use one at the shop for everything from Inlays to cutting Router jigs and other required tools. If you're in need we provide this service for very competitive rates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinner 13 Posted September 4, 2011 Author Share Posted September 4, 2011 If you're fortunate enough to have one an Epilog CO2 laser engraver is nice and precise - I use one at the shop for everything from Inlays to cutting Router jigs and other required tools. If you're in need we provide this service for very competitive rates. Yeah, I am not THAT lucky.... I will be working by hand, I have de-burring tool, mostly Should I use a coping saw, or is a hack saw blade better? Like I said this is a hand cut job I will be leaving plenty of slack space for finishing Fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retrosurfer1959 Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 My guess is your talking plastic not real shell is so a coping saw with a plastic blade is probably best. But depending on thickness I've even cut them with a sharp artist or leather knife and then cleanup with fine sandpaper. Ive gotten lazy though also, now I use a desktop CNC mill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stein Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 Do you have a router? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damian Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 Do you have a router? STEVE would use a vodka bottle as the template, a banana to cut it, and a burned out bulb to shed some light on the task....Just sayin'... ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Marsh Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 Plus one to Retro's suggestion of a sharp knife - If you go to a hobby shop you may find one made by Paashe, the airbrush manufacturer called a swivel knife - the little right angle blade is mounted to a shaft that swivels and makes cutting curves a bit easier than a fixed blade knife. As retro said, you're working with plastic - a few deep scores and you should be in the ballpark, ready for finishing. Best O' Luck Matey! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinner 13 Posted September 5, 2011 Author Share Posted September 5, 2011 Do you have a router? Nope, if i did this thread would be a moot point... I'll have to got to Blick And see about that Knife. most of the work I do I do by hand Or improvise(I can hear some of you cringing as I type) I am not lucky enough to be financially Blessed with lots of toys/tools. Cause if I was... I would just go buy what I need. All solid advice, thank you for all the insight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L5Larry Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 Depending on how thick your tortoise is, or if it's multi-ply, the tools of engagement will vary. To score and snap thin plastics, which is the best way to rough cut, the proper tool is a "plastic cutting knife". This is a "draw-knife" with a sharply angled hook blade. What you're pulling through the material is the sharp point of the tool to create the score line. By doing this you are gouging out a groove, not cutting a line. You can make multiple passes with this tool for thicker plastics, but your first pass is all important as subsequent passes will follow the the first cut. After making a few passed and cutting a nice groove, carefully snap off the excess. Use a metal straight edge for a knife guide whenever possible, the cutting tool will cut into wood or plastic guides. For convex curves, use a series of tangent straight cuts. For concave curves, use a metal soup can (or similar) round metal guide. Drawing the knife by hand without a guide is not recommended. Make your score & snap cuts as close to the finish line as reasonably possible. Use a plastic or metal file and sandpaper to finish the material to your pattern line. As with all tools, and especially knives and cutting tools, follow ALL safety instructions, and BE CAREFUL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon S. Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 I recently cut a new PG for an old J-50 with scissors and an exacto knife(obviously not the best way-but the material was thin and it worked). I used a clear sheet of cooking paper to trace the pattern, then cut the shape and smoothed it out with fine grit sandpaper. As MacGyverish it was, it actually turned out great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damian Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 Great thread, I also needed this information....If a pickguard is being replaced, wouldn't the old pickguard make a good template itself ??? Or, a pickguard traced onto quality cardboard, and then the cardboard being used as the cutting template ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retrosurfer1959 Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 Be really careful if you use the old pick guard as a template - they shrink over time and you'll end up cutting it too small and you won't cover the glue line. This is especially bad on the old stuff that really shrank I replaced a pick guard on a early 70's Guild last week that had shrunk almost 1/4 inch on all sides I actually cut all custom cut pick pickguard replacement guards about 1/16 or so larger than original so that way even after finishing and beveling the edge any line in the finish is hidden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon S. Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 Be really careful if you use the old pick guard as a template - they shrink over time and you'll end up cutting it too small and you won't cover the glue line. This is especially bad on the old stuff that really shrank I replaced a pick guard on a early 70's Guild last week that had shrunk almost 1/4 inch on all sides I actually cut all custom cut pick pickguard replacement guards about 1/16 or so larger than original so that way even after finishing and beveling the edge any line in the finish is hidden. +1. Good info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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