OldBlue&Blondie Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Well. I've had my baby for 11 months now and I worked out the bugs to the point where I can report that, sheesh, dang this is a nice guitar. Took me a while to figure out the seetings on my amp (1980s Fender Concert II) and also wear the third strin nut slot so it stays in tune (mostly there now). In short, the guitar barks. In a good way. I love the tone on this guy and an ebony fretboard is really fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISirius42 Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 What a nice feeling! Keep giving her love and the rest of the kinks may work themselves out. Enjoy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JazzGtr Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Yeah these CS 356 are a strange lot to get use to. I discovered with mine, I had to change my expectation that the CS 356 was not going to play and sound like an es 335. Afterwards, she sound so much better. Jazz, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G McBride Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 I have had mine about a year now also. I played back and forth between the 339 and the 356. I let a friend talk me out of the 339 and the 356 started getting a lot more of my attention. I really like this guitar and think it is very well made. Glad you are liking yours also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skytourterry Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 I have a 2003 CS 356 and I really love it to bits. I've had a bit of a problem with the bridge pick up position and wiring but having now got that sorted out this really is a fantastic instrument. I know that nothing lasts forever but has anybody else had a problem with the combination catch on the case. Since new mine has been very tempremental and recently it has very rapidly deteriorated to the extent that I no longer trust it. Sometimes it will not click shut, other times if it does click shut I have a hell of a job trying to get the thing to open again. Do Gibson Custom supply new cases? I live in the UK and over here I can only get a Gibson Case with a Gibson Guitar in it. I can not find anywhere that will supply me with a new Combination Catch and I am afraid that I am one of these people who absolutly hates having anything that does not work.In my book if it does not work properly then there is simply no point in having it. If I can find a new Gibson Custom Case for my guitar then I will buy one but over here on this side of the pond I am not having much joy. Any hints, advice or thoughts will be gratefully received from any CS 356 users.......THANK YOU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldBlue&Blondie Posted December 12, 2011 Author Share Posted December 12, 2011 My case has a key lock (which, frankly has no point in ever being used as a thief could open that in about 3 seconds). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazzgirl7 Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 I love these little guitars! But do any of you have an opinion on the 339/359 laminate versions compared to the 336/356 solid carved wood? I just purchased the 359, and it's a gorgeous guitar, and sounds great, but I'm just learning about the solid carved 356, and since I play jazz, I wondered if the tone was warmer? And is the solid version lighter than the laminate/plywood models? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldBlue&Blondie Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 I love these little guitars! But do any of you have an opinion on the 339/359 laminate versions compared to the 336/356 solid carved wood? I just purchased the 359, and it's a gorgeous guitar, and sounds great, but I'm just learning about the solid carved 356, and since I play jazz, I wondered if the tone was warmer? And is the solid version lighter than the laminate/plywood models? Clayville, I think, had a nice write up of the differences in sound (in general - individual guitars can and do sound different). Both are in between a 335 and an LP. 339/359 was more 335-ish, 336/356 was more LP-ish. My guitar is 6.9#. I never really compared my guitar to a 339. I do have an LP and the 356 is warmer with a nice growling bite. And, not surprisingly, more resonant hollow body sounding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clayville Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 This thread must have slipped by me during the holiday crush... On the case latch issue: I don't really have much to offer, but can report that since my 2003 CS-356 sits cased and sitting on edge most of the time, I'm noticing a bit of warp in the case itself. Seems odd, and doesn't affect the guitar at all, but it's a bit disconcerting. It could possibly be from opening the lid a bit too hard sometimes, bending those backside hinges a little, but I'm not sure. In any event, I habitually carry the guitar case in my LEFT hand (or else the right hand with the neck pointing behind me) so that my body will keep the case closed if it ever pops open in transit. It never has... but an ounce of prevention seems prudent to me! On the sound difference: I'm assuming you found my earlier report/opinion by now...but OldB&B's summary matches my experience much - and much more succinctly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fretplay Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 I'm not familiar with the ES 356 but it sounds very much like an Ibanez AM205. If you are looking for the ultimate in warm sound, very different from an Es335 and can pull yourself away from Gibson then give the Am205 a try. The guitar is hand made burl mahogany top back and sides. They were made in the 80s but they appear now and again on E Bay. Worth the wait IMHO ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoreyC Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 I soooo regret selling my cs-356 in natural. I loved that guitar. I thought the grass was greener on the gretsch side of town, but I'm really missing that sweet natural. It's a great sounding and playing instrument. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldBlue&Blondie Posted February 10, 2012 Author Share Posted February 10, 2012 I'm not familiar with the ES 356 but it sounds very much like an Ibanez AM205. If you are looking for the ultimate in warm sound, very different from an Es335 and can pull yourself away from Gibson then give the Am205 a try. The guitar is hand made burl mahogany top back and sides. They were made in the 80s but they appear now and again on E Bay. Worth the wait IMHO ! I had never heard of this guitar. Looks like a similar design. Appears the Am205 had a burl mahogony top. The one I saw on the web was quite nice: http://www.intricatenetworks.com/ebay/zipur/ibanez-ar-205/ I wonder if the mahogony top would tend to soften the bite as compared to a maple top. I've seen CS356s in koa, maple, and quilted maple which are three different woods (the quilted maple is from a western maple, I think found in OR, and generally not as dense as the hard maple tops). And Koa is supposed to be tonally like a mahogony. Anyone ever compared different 356s with different tops? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fretplay Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 I had never heard of this guitar. Looks like a similar design. Appears the Am205 had a burl mahogony top. The one I saw on the web was quite nice: http://www.intricatenetworks.com/ebay/zipur/ibanez-ar-205/ I wonder if the mahogony top would tend to soften the bite as compared to a maple top. I've seen CS356s in koa, maple, and quilted maple which are three different woods (the quilted maple is from a western maple, I think found in OR, and generally not as dense as the hard maple tops). And Koa is supposed to be tonally like a mahogony. Anyone ever compared different 356s with different tops? Certainly a Mahogany top will give a warmer sound than a maple. I can only say from experience of owning an AM205 this is a guitar like no other, not everything to all men if you know what I mean but if you are looking for a long sustained warm sound, say no more! The first time I heard one was a get together of friends and friends of friends you know what I mean. I just wanted to own it but the guy who owned the guitar wouldn't sell for any money. I called him the next day but the answer was still no. It took me a year to get one. They are not expensive as few know their value in musical terms Not a Gibson I know but!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clayville Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 I've compared my CS-356 to several CS-336s and personally prefered the bite and balls that MY particular quilted CS-356 has. I prefer it to the examples of ES-359 I've tried too...but that's as far as I can report. I'm not convinced that anyone can draw a general, across-the-board tonal distinction based on only the top woods of a guitar like this. Perhaps with a guitar that depends entirely on it's woods for it's sound... Even I have a general sense of what, say, a mahogany acoustic sounds like compared to a rosewood/spruce acoustic guitar given similar body shapes... but I just don't think one can reliably infer a consistent 'sound' across most examples of a fairly rare semi-hollow/archtop of a given spec given all the variables of pickups, setup, and the characteristics of the specific wood combinations. Some folks think that the ebony fretboard + large block inlays on the neck of the 356 make for a brighter sound than the rosewood + dots spec of the 336, which sounds like the "received wisdom" related to Les Paul Customs vs. Standards to me. But I could just as easily (and perhaps unpersuasively) argue that they get there 'scooped' e.q. and balls from the triple-ply binding. It's a 'system' of parts and they all work together differently in mysterious ways. I always advise people to shop with their ears (not their eyes, and not with the random bleatings of forums guys like me!). The sound is where the magic lies, so play what sounds good to you! If there were a magic formula, we'd all be playing/using it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldBlue&Blondie Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share Posted February 11, 2012 I tend to agree with Clayville on the wood differences but frankly I have a hard time hearing differences between various guitars. Sure, gross differences and I think I can tell a true dog from a truly great guitar, but otherwise? Well I'm not that confident in my ears. Which leads me to wonder: it took me a number of months to find a tone I was happy with on my 356. If I am in the guitar store would I throw away a great guitar because I couldn't find the right settings on an amp. Sure I could compare one guitar to another but in a given guitar type (e.g., 356 or LP) there is a sizeable difference in weight/wood density. Presumably that corresponds to a different sound that may mean an optimum amp setting that would different. Maybe it is all magic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clayville Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 I was very happy with mine right from the start, but I continued to tweak and refine it's setup over the first year or so. Much more so that the solidbodies I own, I found my CS-356 to be very responsive to really small changes in things like tailpiece height, bridge height, string height (and size), pickup height, pickup polepiece height, nut slot depth. It seems to me that there's just something about the combination of geometries involved including (perhaps) the neck-to-body angle, the pickup surrounds and maybe the coupling of the bridge & tail to and through the maple to the mahogany that makes the sound change a little when any one aspect of those components is changed. I never felt the need to modify any of it's stock components (other than filing the nut a little), but very small incremental screwdriver adjustments have made a real difference, so don't be afraid to try. I was even counting screw turns and half-turns clockwise and counterclockwise so that I could get back to where I started as I refined it... and found that really small physical changes could make a big change to the sound, making a great guitar even better. I'm not really as picky as this sounds (too many miles on my ears for them to be "Super Ears"). I'm just reporting what I found as I tweaked! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunburst PB Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 I have a 2003 CS 356 and I really love it to bits. I've had a bit of a problem with the bridge pick up position and wiring but having now got that sorted out this really is a fantastic instrument. I know that nothing lasts forever but has anybody else had a problem with the combination catch on the case. Since new mine has been very tempremental and recently it has very rapidly deteriorated to the extent that I no longer trust it. Sometimes it will not click shut, other times if it does click shut I have a hell of a job trying to get the thing to open again. Do Gibson Custom supply new cases? I live in the UK and over here I can only get a Gibson Case with a Gibson Guitar in it. I can not find anywhere that will supply me with a new Combination Catch and I am afraid that I am one of these people who absolutly hates having anything that does not work.In my book if it does not work properly then there is simply no point in having it. If I can find a new Gibson Custom Case for my guitar then I will buy one but over here on this side of the pond I am not having much joy. Any hints, advice or thoughts will be gratefully received from any CS 356 users.......THANK YOU. Most of the Gibson cases are made by TKL in Canada and you can buy directly from them I believe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldBlue&Blondie Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 I was very happy with mine right from the start, but I continued to tweak and refine it's setup over the first year or so. Much more so that the solidbodies I own, I found my CS-356 to be very responsive to really small changes in things like tailpiece height, bridge height, string height (and size), pickup height, pickup polepiece height, nut slot depth. It seems to me that there's just something about the combination of geometries involved including (perhaps) the neck-to-body angle, the pickup surrounds and maybe the coupling of the bridge & tail to and through the maple to the mahogany that makes the sound change a little when any one aspect of those components is changed. I never felt the need to modify any of it's stock components (other than filing the nut a little), but very small incremental screwdriver adjustments have made a real difference, so don't be afraid to try. I was even counting screw turns and half-turns clockwise and counterclockwise so that I could get back to where I started as I refined it... and found that really small physical changes could make a big change to the sound, making a great guitar even better. I'm not really as picky as this sounds (too many miles on my ears for them to be "Super Ears"). I'm just reporting what I found as I tweaked! I found that to be true also. Small things made me go from "mek" to "wow." Which lead me to wonder if I would throw away a decent guitar because I hadn't really wrung it out in the shop. And I've seen keeping the same settings on an amp and comparing guitar to guitar may not give you the best comparison. Just waxing philosophic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modern image Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 I've compared my CS-356 to several CS-336s and personally prefered the bite and balls that MY particular quilted CS-356 has. I prefer it to the examples of ES-359 I've tried too...but that's as far as I can report. I'm not convinced that anyone can draw a general, across-the-board tonal distinction based on only the top woods of a guitar like this. Perhaps with a guitar that depends entirely on it's woods for it's sound... Even I have a general sense of what, say, a mahogany acoustic sounds like compared to a rosewood/spruce acoustic guitar given similar body shapes... but I just don't think one can reliably infer a consistent 'sound' across most examples of a fairly rare semi-hollow/archtop of a given spec given all the variables of pickups, setup, and the characteristics of the specific wood combinations. Some folks think that the ebony fretboard + large block inlays on the neck of the 356 make for a brighter sound than the rosewood + dots spec of the 336, which sounds like the "received wisdom" related to Les Paul Customs vs. Standards to me. But I could just as easily (and perhaps unpersuasively) argue that they get there 'scooped' e.q. and balls from the triple-ply binding. It's a 'system' of parts and they all work together differently in mysterious ways. I always advise people to shop with their ears (not their eyes, and not with the random bleatings of forums guys like me!). The sound is where the magic lies, so play what sounds good to you! If there were a magic formula, we'd all be playing/using it. how are you? i remember you from the old gibson site when you purchased the 356. was it 2004-2005? i had bought johnny a in 2004. played a 356 once. amazing woody tone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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