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clayville

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About clayville

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    356 is my number

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    http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default.cfm?bandID=239050

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  • Location
    Boston
  • Interests
    Home recording, the Blues, all things related to Gibson CS-356s, watercoloring, Boston sports teams
  1. Congrats - that's a handsome CS-336. FWIW, I've been using DR Pure Blues .10-.46 pure nickels on my '03 CS-356 for about a decade now. They seem just a little warmer and, well, bluesier than the D'Addario XL10s I favored before that (which suits this guitar and what I play). Sounds plenty "jazzy" on the neck pickup if that's what you're after, and the guitar is still as versatile overall as it's always been. These (336/356) come stock with .10s, so if you go up a gauge to .11s you'll either be just fine or you *may* benefit from carefully drawing a folded piece of fine sandpaper through the nut slots a few times to reduce string binding in the slots on the way to the tuners - particularly on the middle strings where the angles are sharper. If you do get a little binding or tuning instability, you'll want to sand the sides to make the slot a touch wider, but not deeper - and try to avoid the take-off point on the fretboard side of the nut if you can, or you might need to adjust your intonation at the saddles just a wee bit.
  2. The first number on that Certificate shown above is Gibson code for exactly what it is (Whoever wrote it may have forgotten the '3' in '355' - but I can't think of any other models that have a 55 in the model number so perhaps it isn't needed here). 'ES' = Electric Spanish '55' = ES-355 '18' = 2018 'AW' = Antique Walnut finish 'G' = Gold Hardware 'IU' = I'm not sure about these... Maybe it's really an 'M' for Maestro? '1' at the end = 'First Quality' (they used to release 'factory seconds')
  3. I use the On Stage GS7465 stand. Basically an A-frame with a flip-it locking extension for the neck. Foldable, really stable base and the neck 'lock' has saved me from disaster more than once. Works great for electrics or acoustics. https://on-stage.com/products/view/12912
  4. +1 on DR Pure Blues I find that the small bodied Gibson semi-hollow guitars can trend a little bit "bright" sounding and the DR's seem to be a little warmer sounding than, say, D'Adarrios on my CS-356 to my ear. But feel free to experiment in the coming weeks/months. Try different ones until you find one you like - strings are the cheapest mod there is (other than screwdriver adjustments to pickup height, which can also make a big difference on these).
  5. My 2003 CS-356 (bought new) doesn't have an inside sticker. My theory is that the inside carve/routing on these models doesn't lend itself to secure sticker placement.
  6. Just chiming in to say I love my '95 J-100 Extra (Antique Natural, not sunburst). With the mahogany back and sides it's a warm, loud, beefy beast and has only gotten better sounding with age (Jeebus, can it really be 24 years since I bought it new?). The o.p. wants what he wants (don't we all), but I'd just point out that it's the mahogany that delivers the distinctive sound on J-100's of that era, not the finish - and it's a different sound than the maple sides/back found on most J-200's. These aren't just cheaper, less blingy J-200's - they're a different sonic flavor altogether (imho).
  7. For what it's worth, when I moved away from D'Addarios on my CS-356 about five years ago I eventually settled on DR Pure Blues 10-46s after a few experiments and have never looked back. They seem warmer and less 'brittle' sounding in that guitar, and seem to create a richer, more 'round' and full sound. But that sounds lvague, even to me. Kind of depends on what you're looking for, what direction you want to take your guitar's sound... but if you're just looking for a change as I was, I liked my results.
  8. You might have better luck asking this question in the "Acoustic" area...
  9. A bit of a hazy memory now, but I'll echo Jinder and others above. I was in Nashville on business 25 years ago and of course wandered into Gruhn to drool. They had a player grade Style O that was gorgeous and yet well-loved - I was smitten and almost bought it on the spot (for about a third of what they seem to go for now). But... the huge neck and tight sound gave me pause. I played it for about an hour over a couple of days and just never felt it was holding it's own or adding much to the sounds I had available from my other more humble acoustics. They're beautiful, but as others have said don't project like you'd expect, and they're more unwieldy than you imagine too - the unusual upper bouts seemed to make it awkward to play in the higher registers and they're a bit of an "armful", if that makes any sense. Guess I'm just no Bill Broonzy in the end.
  10. On the interior construction/design of the Johnny A: As I recall from back when they were launched (could be slightly wrong) I believe there is a relatively small oval-shaped block beneath the bridge to support it on the Johnny A (perhaps 4"wide across east-to-west and about an inch and a half wide north-to-south). My interest was mostly in comparison to the CS-356/CS-336 design which is similar but less hollow overall - the 356/336 has much more central block remaining inside between the neck and bridge, and an internal "dish" carve that matches the contour of the outside/back carve. I remember reading somewhere that the Johnny A has a flat carve on the inside/back instead. On all these guitars the block is integral to the back wood - the backs are routed from a solid slab leaving the block intact. The other main difference between the 356/336 and Johnny A is in the scale length - 356/336 has a standard Gibson scale length of 24.75" while the Johnny A has a 'Fender' scale length of 25.5".
  11. Dan Erlewine's book "How to Make Your Electric Guitar Play Great" is a really good resource for understanding all the components of a setup and many minor minor problem-solving situations that can crop up with a guitar you'd like to improve. Even if you're not confident in doing the work yourself, your desire to understand the process is a good one. There's no "right" answer, though - every experienced player has his own style and taste in how they like a guitar setup for them, what kind of music they typically play, and everything from string gauge to action to pickup heights and more plays a role in ideal playability for YOU and your style. And every guitar has a slightly different geometry so all these adjustments are a bit of a compromise to make the guitar work for you as a system of elements - from neck angles to nuts to bridges to tailpieces.
  12. I live in Boston too. When I got my J-100 Xtra new in the Fall of 1995 I kept it on a stand within easy reach and admired its inviting beauty and my vast wisdom in buying it. Once the heat kicked on in the winter it took about two months before *PING* a crack opened up between the fingerboard and the sound hole that needed to be repaired and cleated. I've been a faithful humidifier of my acoustics ever since - with a sound hole Dampit - and now I keep them cased. Lesson learned.... painfully.
  13. Just FYI: There are construction and scale-length differences too. The Johnny A is more hollow inside than the 336/356 with less 'center block' area left integral with the back wood, and I believe the Johnny A routing leaves the inside-back flat whereas on the 336/356 the inside/back routing is dished like the back itself. And the Johhny A uses a longer, "Fender" 25.5" scale length than the usual Gibson 24.75 scale length.
  14. In some respects, the smaller body size of the 339 just has a different character than the, er, full-bodied oomph of a 335 - in clean, lo-gain situations it will sound "smaller" because, well, it IS smaller. But if it sounds constricted, try comparing the pickup height between the two guitars. If your 339's pickups are much closer to the strings than your 335's it's possible they're reducing the perceived resonance and richness. The pickups themselves should be fine (I love mine), but I'd experiment with height to see if you can get closer to your ideal. I find the small-bodied Gibsons like my 356 to be sensitive to such things, so I'd try lowering your neck pickup a bit and fiddling with pole piece height across the strings to try and dial in the sound you're after, then do the same with the bridge pickup to balance for volume between the two pickups. Always try screwdriver mods first! Just my two cents
  15. If I didn't take my '95 J-100 Extra I'd miss the booming mahogany every single day. Plus: It's a cannon, perfect for signaling passing ships. \:D/
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