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I.D. my mid? 60s 335....


mloch

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980XXX is in a very grey area. The published record I have show Gibson reaching 970XXX in 1968 and then going back to 5's, 6's, 7's, and 8's for '69.

 

It seems they used the 9's again in the 70-72 years. So IF your guitar has no headstock volute or "made In USA" stamp, or only has ONE of these features, it would have been made sometime in 1970. If it has both these features it would have been made in 71 or 72.

 

You might also confirm or deny this information by sticking a dental mirror through the f-hole and see if you can read the potentiometer codes off the bottom of the pots. Your looking for a seven-digit number starting with "137".

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980XXX is in a very grey area. The published record I have show Gibson reaching 970XXX in 1968 and then going back to 5's, 6's, 7's, and 8's for '69.

 

It seems they used the 9's again in the 70-72 years. So IF your guitar has no headstock volute or "made In USA" stamp, or only has ONE of these features, it would have been made sometime in 1970. If it has both these features it would have been made in 71 or 72.

 

You might also confirm or deny this information by sticking a dental mirror through the f-hole and see if you can read the potentiometer codes off the bottom of the pots. Your looking for a seven-digit number starting with "137".

Larry, I thought '69 was the last year of the orange label before going to the "harlequin" label. I have an ES 335 that I've pretty confidently dated to 1968 by characteristics, label, and serial number, and it's number 980494. One reference I have gives 1968 numbers as 910000 to 999999.

 

Admittedly serial numbers in this time period can be tricky, but I believe a '68 would almost certainly have no volute, serial number stamped on peghead, no made in USA stamp, larger f-holes, and the orange "union made" label.

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Larry, I thought .....

 

Nick,

I don't know whether the OP has even been back, and certainally has not contributed any further information about the details of the guitar in question. I believe we're speaking into the wind here. There is no use of you and I getting into a "discussion" about label colors and serial number cut-off dates without participation from the one that asked the question. When/if the OP wants to contribute to this conversation, I'm sure we can hash it out.

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