Would like info on the Epiphone Les Paul Standard Plain Top

[Arc Anjil]

Hi all!

 

Have finally settled on a new guitar (hopefully), but I still need more info. I'm looking to purchase the Les Paul Standard Plain Top in Cherry Sunburst, but....

 

The local GC does not have one and the nearest is 2 hour's drive away. Photos show the "cherry" paint to be very bright. Almost too much for me. Is it just the way the photo was taken or what?

 

An advertisement from a shop in England shows an LP with a "Lightburst" finish. Do they mean the Honeyburst, or is that something different (which GC does not list as an option on their website)?

 

I'd like to get the Cherry (it looks good on Jimmy Page and I'm hoping that rubs off on me. JK, LOL!).

 

Any other info would be helpful, too.

 

Thanks, all!

[Whitmore Willy]

Is it just the way the photo was taken or what?

Looks like it to me.

 

Willy

[Arc Anjil]

Looks like it to me.

 

Willy

 

Thanks for the quick reply!

 

So the cherry sunburst finish on the Epi is the same or almost the same as on the Gibson? I wish I could see the honeyburst and the cherryburst side by side, but the Ocala GC is half the size of the one back home (Houston), and I'm a long way from there, LOL.

 

I played the "Black Beauty" painted one at the store, but I had one of those many years ago. I've always wanted a cherryburst, and now's my chance, but it seems they look different now days from what I remember many... I mean a few, years ago.

[BobF_]

Sweetwater.com usually has good pics

[Bluemans335]

I know what you mean. Cherryburst is an acquired taste. They're usually fire engine red on the edges, and bright yellow in the middle. Kind of harsh. Hard for me to get into that. Vintageburst has the same issue with too much contrast; the sides are black, and the middle is amber. Less extreme, more graduated shades are much more appealing to me. It sounds like you won't like cherryburst, so I'd scratch that. "Lightburst' (I don't think that's an official Epi term) would be much better.

 

Epi makes cherrybursts because that's what the '1958-1960 'Bursts' were originally. But the red has faded over the decades, and now most of them are all amber, and just gorgeous. THAT'S the color Epi should be going for, aged Bursts, not cherryburst!

 

I have a few Epi LP Std's and much prefer honeyburst (which is a yellow-brown), teaburst, brownburst, desert burst, wine red, etc. More sophisticated colors, easier on the eyes. The amber finish would be good, but it's not very transparent, so you lose most of the flame and just have a plain mustard-yellow guitar, unless you look close. There are also a number of limited edition colors produced here and there, some are beautiful. I'd LOVE to see Epiphone use more of the colors that Gibson does on their LP's.

[Arc Anjil]

I know what you mean. Cherryburst is an acquired taste. They're usually fire engine red on the edges, and bright yellow in the middle. Kind of harsh. Hard for me to get into that. Vintageburst has the same issue with too much contrast; the sides are black, and the middle is amber. Less extreme, more graduated shades are much more appealing to me. It sounds like you won't like cherryburst, so I'd scratch that. "Lightburst' (I don't think that's an official Epi term) would be much better.

 

Epi makes cherrybursts because that's what the '1958-1960 'Bursts' were originally. But the red has faded over the decades, and now most of them are all amber, and just gorgeous. THAT'S the color Epi should be going for, aged Bursts, not cherryburst!

 

I have a few Epi LP Std's and much prefer honeyburst (which is a yellow-brown), teaburst, brownburst, desert burst, wine red, etc. More sophisticated colors, easier on the eyes. The amber finish would be good, but it's not very transparent, so you lose most of the flame and just have a plain mustard-yellow guitar, unless you look close. There are also a number of limited edition colors produced here and there, some are beautiful. I'd LOVE to see Epiphone use more of the colors that Gibson does on their LP's.

 

 

Blueman, you said it exactly. I was thinking maybe they use a more solid red on the plaintops because it's, well, plain, no woodgrain (or very little of it). Maybe the flamed maple tops get a more translucent red to help show off the grain more, IDK. Some photos I've seen show some really gorgeous honeybursts and I'm ashamed to say I've never really checked them out. Some photos don't seem to do them justice, like the photo of the Epi LP at the GC website. There is a thread over at mylespaul.com about honeybursts and there are some real beauts there.

 

I agree completely on the tobacco burst (or vintage burst). Some can look really amazing, but I'm just not into that style/color. Almost the same goes for a goldtop. They're really beautiful guitars and the looks really do inspire your playing, but every time I see one, I think of some old guy sitting in a studio! I know, I have issues!

 

All this talk about the looks of a guitar makes me feel like we're talking about the centerfold in a certain magazine, LOL! But who wants to play what they consider an ugly guitar?

 

Thanks to all for your comments. I believe I'm going with the honeyburst. Hope I get a good looking one!

[Gunner]

+1 for honey burst. That's my favorite burst color.

[Bluemans335]

Blueman, you said it exactly. I was thinking maybe they use a more solid red on the plaintops because it's, well, plain, no woodgrain (or very little of it). Maybe the flamed maple tops get a more translucent red to help show off the grain more, IDK. Some photos I've seen show some really gorgeous honeybursts...I agree completely on the tobacco burst (or vintage burst). Some can look really amazing, but I'm just not into that style/color. Almost the same goes for a goldtop. They're really beautiful guitars and the looks really do inspire your playing...

 

I believe I'm going with the honeyburst.

 

We have the same taste in LP's. Gold tops are too gaudy for me too. Whether flame or plain top, Epi uses the same red and yellow colors, so cherryburst is going to be the same regardless. Honeyburst, teaburst, and desertburst are all nice, very classy. LP's should be beautiful, looks and tone. The current production LP Std Plus Pros have Probuckers, which are very good PU's, and push-pulls for coil cut. Great value for the money. I love mine. Report back when you get yours.

[Arc Anjil]

We have the same taste in LP's. Gold tops are too gaudy for me too. Whether flame or plain top, Epi uses the same red and yellow colors, so cherryburst is going to be the same regardless. Honeyburst, teaburst, and desertburst are all nice, very classy. LP's should be beautiful, looks and tone. The current production LP Std Plus Pros have Probuckers, which are very good PU's, and push-pulls for coil cut. Great value for the money. I love mine. Report back when you get yours.

 

 

Just got back from the local GC and checking out a honeyburst LP. Definitely going with that one. It is one sweet looking guitar! I'll be getting the Plain top, so no coil-taps (tried them out on the Plus top, and decided it wasn't worth the extra $100 for me).

 

Trying to get info on the warranty. The Epiphone website says to check with a local authorized dealer, but I forgot to ask, and the thread elsewhere here on what comes with an Epi is not clear. "Limited Lifetime Warranty". What exactly does that mean?

[BobF_]

Love my honeyburst +top AND the Epi Probucker pups!

[Bluemans335]

Love my honeyburst +top AND the Epi Probucker pups!

 

+1. Looks and sounds great. Tough to beat.

[Whitmore Willy]

Trying to get info on the warranty. "Limited Lifetime Warranty". What exactly does that mean?

Nothing and everything. Good but difficult question.

It covers defects against manufacturing and materials. Now...try to prove it!

 

If your store is good they will cover any immediate problems....So will Epiphone. If not, they will blame you.

This has nothing to do with Epiphone. If you do encounter a problem soon after purchase as a matter of the above...

Your store (under store or Epi warranty) may help you.

Gibson Customer service might help if the store is being stupid.

 

After 50 years of guitar I have heard all kinds of stories...good and bad.

 

The best I can advise with any guitar is to examine it thoroughly. (With a magnifying glass if need be)

The smallest crack in the neck could manifest itself in the future...(you must have hit it on something...your fault)

Set up immediately!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (after a couple of days of acclimation)

If there is a truss rod problem this is where it will show. If there is, you don't want it. Take it back!

 

These are basics. Most other problems can be resolved.

If you have a chip in your guitar.....you caused it.

 

Obviously, you are not a beginner.

Just pay attention to what you are buying and who you buy it from.

 

I've bought new guitars with electronics problems knowing I loved the guitar but the electronics sucked.

Still, for me, I do my own work and knew I was replacing them anyway.

Totally voided any warranty. I just waited till after 30 days.

 

If you don't find any problems in the first thirty days, including the truss rod, the guitar is probably okey dokey.....

kind of, maybe, sort of, we hope.

 

Willy

[Arc Anjil]

Nothing and everything. Good but difficult question.

It covers defects against manufacturing and materials. Now...try to prove it!

 

 

 

Thanks, Willy.

 

I'm just trying to cover all bases, or at least as many as I can! I'm getting the guitar from GC with their 30 day MBG. AS you say, I will be checking it from stem to stern before I leave the store. If even the finish isn't to what I like (too light or too dark), I'm rejecting it. I just want to make sure that if something like the intonation is out, who fixes it and at who's cost (I'm not paying for it. An untunable guitar is an unPLAYable guitar). I could set the saddles myself (I have a meter), but I feel a new guitar should be set up, or fixed by the maker or the store.

 

The waiting for it is hard, though. I feel like I'm 10 years old again (If I remember correctly.....)! I don't mind. Sometimes the anticipation of something is better than actually having it (but not in this case, LOL!).

 

I'll post pics once I have it in my grubby little mitts.

 

Thanks all!

[Bluemans335]

Thanks, Willy.

 

I'm just trying to cover all bases, or at least as many as I can! I'm getting the guitar from GC with their 30 day MBG. AS you say, I will be checking it from stem to stern before I leave the store. If even the finish isn't to what I like (too light or too dark), I'm rejecting it. I just want to make sure that if something like the intonation is out, who fixes it and at who's cost (I'm not paying for it. An untunable guitar is an unPLAYable guitar). I could set the saddles myself (I have a meter), but I feel a new guitar should be set up, or fixed by the maker or the store.

 

The waiting for it is hard, though. I feel like I'm 10 years old again (If I remember correctly.....)! I don't mind. Sometimes the anticipation of something is better than actually having it (but not in this case, LOL!).

 

I'll post pics once I have it in my grubby little mitts.

 

Thanks all!

 

Check the guitar out thoroughly, and make them give you a discount if there's any minor flaws at all. Check the neck relief and intonation on a tuner while you're there.

 

That being said, you NEED to get Dan Erlewine's book: 'How to make your electric guitar play great' from StewMac. I got that book, loaded with pics and text, and it taught me how to do set ups (I do all my own set ups since I got that book). Most of the stuff is easy, and takes no expereince or special tools. Know you instrument, take control. Get that book!

[Arc Anjil]

Thanks, Blueman. I bookmarked the webpage of the book. And wouldn't you know it: the first review includes a photo of a cherryburst LP!!! Very bright red. Glad I looked into all this and chose the honeyburst.

 

Quick Q: Does the book cover painting? I have an old Fender knock-off of a Strat (yes, a Fender knockoff, LOL!). Black with white pickguard, maple fretboard. I'd like to redo it in Antique vintage white so it looks like the guitar Hendrix played at Woodstock (no, I wasn't there....). I like the white better. Once I've made sure the LP won't be returned, I'd like to start the re-painting process. Oh, it also needs the nut filed down or replaced, minor work, etc.

 

It would make a great backup guitar, once it's working correctly.

 

Thanks!

[Bluemans335]

Thanks, Blueman. I bookmarked the webpage of the book. And wouldn't you know it: the first review includes a photo of a cherryburst LP!!! Very bright red. Glad I looked into all this and chose the honeyburst.

 

Quick Q: Does the book cover painting? I have an old Fender knock-off of a Strat (yes, a Fender knockoff, LOL!). Black with white pickguard, maple fretboard. I'd like to redo it in Antique vintage white so it looks like the guitar Hendrix played at Woodstock (no, I wasn't there....). I like the white better. Once I've made sure the LP won't be returned, I'd like to start the re-painting process. Oh, it also needs the nut filed down or replaced, minor work, etc.

 

It would make a great backup guitar, once it's working correctly.

 

Thanks!

 

This book is just for set ups. Every guitarists should be able to do his own. No reason to pay a tech, or be at their mercy for how they assume you want things. Refinishing is a whole new ball game, much more complicated to do it right.

[Whitmore Willy]

Every guitarists should be able to do his own.

Exactly, and for several reasons including climate. In my case, with Mich seasons, I find myself tweaking my guitars

about twice a year. Others live in areas that are excessively damp or dry for part of the year.

 

No reason to pay a tech, or be at their mercy for how they assume you want things.

Also good reasons...plus...I've never liked the idea of leaving my guitar with someone for several

days for the sake of a couple of minor adjustments.

What is even worse is getting it back with scratches, dings or chips and being told,

"It must have been there when you brought it in."

 

A small side note. While you are waiting for Dan Erlewine's book, you may find this useful:

http://mysite.verizon.net/jazz.guitar/guitarsetup.htm

(not as concise, but a good place to start)

 

Willy

[Arc Anjil]

Well.....

 

The order is placed!!!

 

Guitar is shipping from Grand Rapids, MI! Could they find a place farther away or what (I'm in Florida)? LOL.

 

Oh well, visions of Epiphone will dance in my dreams tonight!

 

I hope to post photos by Friday, if all goes well. Wait, isn't there a snow storm going on up there? I'm sitting here wearing shorts and a tank top with the windows open, so I don't know what's going on up there.

 

Don't delay my axe!!!!! I'll make a sacrifice to the snow gods tonight at midnight in hopes of placating them.

[Arc Anjil]

Things did not go well, guys. Picked up the guitar, right after getting a text that my sister and step-mother were taking my Dad to the hospital (he's on oxygen and such). So I had to just pick up the guitar and run.

 

I got home later and checked it out. First thing I noticed was a serious fret buzz on a number of open strings. Then I noticed the mis-aligned volume and tone control knobs:

 

 

Finally, I put my glasses on and saw this:

 

 

Not good. I called GC and they said bring it on in when the tech is there and they'll take a look at it. I don't think the neck is salvagable and it's a set neck, so the guitar is shot, but it sounds and plays really good!

 

The GC has a Trad Pro (with coil taps and a flame maple top) in honeyburst for $419 (was $499 last week). So I called back and talked to a sales guy there about exchanging the Standard Pro for the Trad Pro and I'll pay the difference.

 

What do you guys think?

[Bluemans335]

1) First thing I noticed was a serious fret buzz on a number of open strings.

 

2) Then I noticed the mis-aligned volume and tone control knobs:

 

3) I don't think the neck is salvagable and it's a set neck, so the guitar is shot, but it sounds and plays really good!

 

1) Fret buzz should be fixed by the seller of a new guitar, usually its a truss rod tweak that takes one minute to do; that's why new Epi's come with an allen wrench. Usually no big deal. I can tell you how to do it.

 

2) Knobs, common thing, the guitar gets bounced around in shipment and some knobs may get pushed down further than others. To remove knobs, wrap a wash cloth around the knob and pull up (don't pry them off with a screwdriver).

 

3) Never accept a guitar with a neck crack, or any physical damage without a major reduction in price. From the picture it's probably into the wood a little, but an easy fix for someone who knows what they're doing. Common location for cracks due to the angled headstock Gibson and Epi uses. But there are big advantages to an angled headstock, as far as sustain, scale length, tone, and having the strings stay firmly in the nut slots without a string tree. So that's why angled necks are still used. The only thing is a few necks get cracked in shipping, and that's GC's problem, not yours. The fast majority of Epi's survive shipping without any damage; I know, I've bought and sold dozens over the years.

 

But you're paying full price for a new guitar, and that is not acceptable. Obviously you don't have any experience working on guitars, so that one is not a guitar for you at any price.

 

The Honeyburst 'Tradional Pro' you mentioned is actually a 'Std Plus Pro', which normally sell for $500. $419's a good price, I'd get it before the price goes back up. I have one of those, in that same color, and love it. Go for it!

[Arc Anjil]

FINALLY!!

 

Returned the cracked neck guitar at GC and walked out with a Standard Pro Plustop in honeyburst with GT KillPots (I thought they were coil-taps!). Why in the world would a guitar with 2 pickups need/use killpots?

 

Anyway, here she is!!!!

 

 

A closeup of the Flame top....

 

 

A lot of work, but it was worth it. BTW, the sound is quite a bit brighter than the plaintop I had last night. Not that it matters much. I have yet to change the strings and run it through my new amp (which won't get here till Thursday or Friday).

 

The pics (done will a Canon Shureshot A520) just don't do it justice - sorry!

 

Here's one done with my iPhone 3. The color actually came out better. This is as close to the real thing I have (so far). Tried outdoor, but the sun was too low.

[Bluemans335]

Are you suire they're Killpots? I've never heard of that in an EPi LP Std. They're supoosed to be coil cuts. Could they be miss-wired? If so, have them knock some money off the price.

[Arc Anjil]

Well, they were labelled as GT KillPots and they definitely kill the pickup they're wired to!

 

The guitar was made in July 2012 in China according to the S/N.

 

Oh yeah, the label says it has a ProBucker 2 in the neck position and a ProBucker 3 in the bridge slot.

 

Interesting: when the pickup selector is in either R or T position, the volume controls act normal;

 

BUT

 

when the selector is in the middle, either volume control will turn off all sound from the guitar when turned all the way down, but will first turn down the pickup it controls (so you can still blend the sound from both pickups B4 shutting off all sound).

 

Either or both pickups sound brighter and have more hum when it's corresponding volume control is "up", leading me to believe the "up" position is the single-coil.

 

So I guess I have ProBucker coil-tap pickups with KillPots?