animalfarm Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 Edit: Have rcvd a couple of msgs in past week asking about this project, how did you, what problems, etc. The ORIGINAL thread was lost in a previous crash, so I'm "reassembling" the original from bits and pieces. Hope this helps... All done with KRYLON... Pups are from an upgrade to my Epi Les Paul Classic, Tuners are Chrome Tulips from parts toolbox, Bridge, Tailpiece, Alpha Pots, Speed Knobs, jack and plate from Guitar Fetish, had Sprague Orange Drop caps from...? AS RECIEVED: I used a heat gun to remove about 90% of the original paint, sanded the remaining paint off, specifically in the curves/cut-out. Once the paint starts softening, start scraping with the putty knife!!! Too much heat for too long will cause the GLUE that holds a Ply/Layered git together to soften, and thin layers will start peeling away and/or crack. IN PROGRESS: This required Wood Putty to re-fill the damaged areas, and as I was moving the guitar jack to the side of the git PLUS fixing the "wallowed-out" 3-way switch hole, I applied plenty of putty. After it dried, I re-drilled the 3-way hole (drill press) and sanded entire guitar by hand with sanding block to level putty and smooth surface for sanding sealer and priming. Then sanded back of Neck/Headstock by hand to remove original Black paint, and prep neck for stain and TUNG OIL finish. Original Tuner holes were 8mm, I needed 10mm, so I used drill press to enlarge tuner holes. Headstock was clamped to prevent movement, and I checked alignment of drill bit 3 times for each hole prior to drilling out. Holes for original tuner mounting screws were filled in with cut-off toothpicks and glue, then cut flush and sanded after drying. Neck was pre-treated with Minwax water-based "pre-stain" conditioner, then the raised grain sanded smooth. Stained with Minwax Vermont Maple stain. After drying, I used Minwax TUNG OIL and a foam brush to start the Tung Oil finish process - apply even coat, let dry 24 hours. Apply another coat, let dry. Another coat, let dry... I put 5 coats of Tung Oil on neck. The great thing about Tung Oil is that the MORE coats you apply, the SHINIER it gets. Also as smooth as h*ll when it hardens! The following pics show the neck after a couple of coats, then after all coats... Time to Prime, used a "stick" with a hook at the far end to hang guitar, attached to body thru neck screw holes - screw heads were small enough to not interfere with priming, painting, clear coats - plus, had chrome neck plate to "cover" those spots if there had been anything weird. Taped off inside pup cavities with BLUE painter's masking tape, also taped over control cavities on back, used razor blade to cut tape to exact shape so no paint got inside, stuffed kleenex into holes for bridge and tailpiece on front. I used WHITE primer because I wanted the following "Antique White/Ivory" color coats to "pop" and be as close as possible to what I was trying for. I shot 4 coats of primer, let dry for a week, light sand with 600 grit, wipe down. Then 4 MORE coats of primer, same process. Then it's off to Painting, and ultimately Clearcoats and buffing. Following pic shows (I think) First coat of paint and Chrome tulip tuners installed. I'm looking for pics of the painting and sanding, and gloss coats and sanding - no go. I may have saved 'em on a disc. If so, I'll edit. I CAN describe the process, though. Shot 4 coats Antique White over 8 hour period, let dry for a week. Then WET-SANDED entire guitar with 600 grit paper, wiped down and dried multiple times, then shot 4 MORE coats of Antique White, same way as above. THIS time I wet-sanded with 600 grit, THEN 1000 Grit to prep for Clear Coat. Shot 3 coats of CLEAR, let dry for a week (notice a trend here?). Wet-sanded with 1000 grit, super wipe-down. Shot 3 MORE coats of Clear, wet-sanded with 1000 AND 1500 grit, super wipe-down. NOW it's time to BUFF!!!!!! Yeah, "MEGUIAR's". The stuff you use on cars. Amazingly, works like a champ on Guitars. I used the round FOAM pads that fit in a drill for the FLAT surfaces, and HAND-BUFFED the rest. Used the "Ultimate Compound" FIRST just to get a good shine on the guitar, and there WERE some "swirl marks". So, I hit it with the "Swirl X" swirl remover, all gone. Polished up with GHS guitar polish, and reassembled. Pics show the results of the polishing compounds... I had to "touch up" the little chip at the edge of the neck pocket with a super thin paint brush and Antique White paint. Bummer. Can't even see it now. FINISHED PRODUCT: Taped off fretboard, then polished the frets with #0000 steel wool, lemon-oiled fretboard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
animalfarm Posted September 13, 2009 Author Share Posted September 13, 2009 Oh, yeah - next projects... 1. 2006 HALO INVERT: fix finish problems, upgrade electronics. 2. 2008 DEAN VENDETTA: Go from Satin finish to Full Gloss, install all GOLD hardware and pups (GFS). Add Stopbar tailpiece. Thanks MichaelE for inspiration! HALO DEAN(s) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wardog Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 dude, awesome. I scored a les paul standard plus top in blue burst on ebay. Has a crack in heal of neck. It will be my first crack :- at repairing. I will post pic when i get it. I will need lots of advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carverman Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 Well.....Since we've lost mucho info' date=' and I just finished thisforever to cure out project TODAY, a quick overview. All done with KRYLON... Pups are from an upgrade to my Epi Les Paul Classic, Tuners are Grover Tulps from same Epi upgrade... [/quote'] I gotta get reading glasses..when I first read your title it read "70s Honda" Refinish Project. Nice Krylon spray job you did there! It's smooth and glossy and looks professional. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
animalfarm Posted September 13, 2009 Author Share Posted September 13, 2009 dude' date=' awesome. I scored a les paul standard plus top in blue burst on ebay. Has a crack in heal of neck. It will be my first crack :- at repairing. I will post pic when i get it. I will need lots of advice. [/quote'] I know EXACTLY which guitar you're talking about, I WAS WATCHING IT, TOO!!!! I decided to back off - too many other projects pending that need parts ($$$$$). Seeing the pix on ebay, my first thought was to gently try to spread crack (boy, this is headed for the gutter...) to see if opening would be large enough to work/push/feed copious amounts of wood glue inside, then CLAMP, leave for week or more (of course wipe off excess glue as it oozes out...). That's very generic, body would have to be clamped down, neck moved to open crack while carefully listening for bad noises like more C-R-A-C-K!!!! make opening just big enough to push glue in with thin plastic strip. Probably take a while. Our Luthier members may provide more sage advice.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wardog Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 CAN'T WAIT TO GET IT AND SEE HOW THE CRACK IS DOING!!!!!. i will start a thread to get help on repair options. keep usposted on your projexts. I am learning alot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lpfan Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 Oh' date=' yeah - next projects...1. 2006 HALO INVERT: fix finish problems, upgrade electronics. 2. 2008 DEAN VENDETTA: Go from Satin finish to Full Gloss, install all GOLD hardware and pups (GFS). Add Stopbar tailpiece. Thanks MichaelE for inspiration! HALO [img']http://i594.photobucket.com/albums/tt26/Animalfarm1984/100_0318.jpg[/img] DEAN(s) Please post pics on the dean project from start to finish with as much detail as possible. I would like to put a gloss finish on my faded SG400 but I don't have the balls to do it, my wife has them in her pocket. LOL! Just kidding, I've never messed with finishes before so I want as much help as I can get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgifntx Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 animal!!! She came out right budro!! Real nice work man!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
animalfarm Posted September 13, 2009 Author Share Posted September 13, 2009 Please post pics on the dean project from start to finish with as much detail as possible. I would like to put a gloss finish on my faded SG400 but I don't have the balls to do it' date=' my wife has them in her pocket. LOL! Just kidding, I've never messed with finishes before so I want as much help as I can get.[/quote'] Carverman, Tgifntx - Thanks! Discovered a way to shoot "dramatic light" pix!!!! No Problem. I test-buffed a section of one Dean with Meguires Ultimate Rubbing compound, the beginings of a shine was there, but so was the "bumpy/orange-peel" look. So, I expect to do a bit of wet-sanding. Hopefully without going thru the original Stain and satin coat, then I'll test-buff again. If results aren't satisfactory, I'll spray my own gloss coats (many), then wet-sand and buff out to Gloss finish. Of course, I have to deal with stain/seal/gloss of the mahogany dowels I'll be installing in the "former" string-thru holes after I drill out and glue the dowels. . . I'll take pix, make commentary. Perhaps others can assist with any questions, too. PICTURE OF FIRST EVER REFINISH PROJECT... ( I've learned a bit since then, but I want to do it again!!! The "satin" gold will be replaced by SHINY gold this time...). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
animalfarm Posted September 14, 2009 Author Share Posted September 14, 2009 CAN'T WAIT TO GET IT AND SEE HOW THE CRACK IS DOING!!!!!. i will start a thread to get help on repair options. keep usposted on your projexts. I am learning alot. The "CRACK THREAD?" Hee-hee! Hopefully will generate input from various watchers/members. Maybe we'll learn a bit! 1. "...can barely see "the crack". 2. "...how do I clamp "my crack"? 3. "...should I pull "my crack" togther with screw'? ....etc, etc, etc!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
animalfarm Posted September 16, 2009 Author Share Posted September 16, 2009 Unreal... I showed a co-worker a pic of 1st Dean refinish (cherry red), he's seen me working on other gits over last couple of months, I haven't even started on next cherry red, he says "I want to buy it when it's done". Good for me? Puts the pressure on to produce quality product! But, but, but maybe I want to keep it.... Hmmm. $$$ or flash? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
animalfarm Posted July 14, 2010 Author Share Posted July 14, 2010 The Original Post in this thread was re-edited to include more detail, and to replace the one lost in the crash. Please go to O.P. ! [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinTheHood Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 Good to see this thread back! I actually used what I learned here when I refinned my LP Jr. My only problem is that it has been several months and my clear coat never fully hardened. Its dry and all, but I can put scratches in it with the lightest touch...even after buffing. I cant remember the brand of paint & clear I used, but it was automotive. Jr. is still sitting around in pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
animalfarm Posted July 14, 2010 Author Share Posted July 14, 2010 Good to see this thread back! I actually used what I learned here when I refinned my LP Jr. My only problem is that it has been several months and my clear coat never fully hardened. Its dry and all' date=' but I can put scratches in it with the lightest touch...even after buffing. I cant remember the brand of paint & clear I used, but it was automotive. [b']Jr. is still sitting around in pieces[/b]. [confused] Holy BAT-SHAT, Batman! I let mine sit for 6 weeks before re-assembly due to same problem. I used Krylon (Acrylic), you used Automotive (?) - I knew the MULTIPLE coats of stuff I had put on would take a while to quit "gassing out"/cure. Wow, I wish you could remember which brand, gotta stay away from it. Now you've got me doing more research - Acrylic Cure Time, Polyurethane-based Spray paints, Compatability of 'crylic and Poly paints/finishes... EPI uses poly for Clearcoating. Sure would like to find out HOW they paint their guitars... Research, unless it's considered "proprietary" info. On the KRYLON website, there is a section dedicated to Guitars finished with KRYLON, so it CAN be used: http://www.krylon.com/expert-advice/you-did-it/guitar-hero/index.jsp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinTheHood Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 I still have the paint with a little left over. I'll take a look and let you know what brand and type it is when I get home tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
animalfarm Posted July 14, 2010 Author Share Posted July 14, 2010 I still have the paint with a little left over. I'll take a look and let you know what brand and type it is when I get home tonight. Thanks!!! BTW' date=' I put your EPI Tele/Strat Spec guide in the Epi Lounge "Do-it-Yourself" thread for PERMANENT reference with FULL CREDIT to YOU. Hope you don't mind..... [confused] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinTheHood Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 Thanks!!! BTW' date=' I put your EPI Tele/Strat Spec guide in theEpi Lounge "Do-it-Yourself" thread for PERMANENT reference with FULL CREDIT to YOU. Hope you don't mind..... [confused] Not a bit! Thanks for the props. I'm just glad people are using it it for a reference. Its at almost 1700 hits since its launch and I'm getting traffic from around the world. Its gradually getting linked in other forums from people finding it and also with a little help from Peter. Thanks Peter! And depending on your search criteria, it ranks anywhere from page 1-5 on google. Not too shabby! So, the paint & clear I used was Dupli-Color - Truck, Van & SUV acrylic laquer. I used acrylic laquer because I found people suggesting it for guitar refin on other sites. I'm wondering if that is my main problem. Should probably have went with a poly. But really, if is scratches this easily on my guitar, how is it supposed to hold up on a vehicle? Any suggestions on how to get this stuff to cure properly? Or maybe do another top coat with something else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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