stein

Yup. It's a matter of personal responsibility. Something lacking more and more. If a person is unwilling to take responsibility for their own actions, it is impossible to be able to judge others for THEIR actions. This is a perfect example. You want to hold Gibson responsible for your guitars. But since you don't want to take responsibility for what you had and how to store them, you fail to see that what you would want Gibson to do for YOU would hurt others more than you would benefit. If you can't see where you are responsible for your part, how can you be trusted to be responsible for your effect on other people? Gibson built the guitar right. You stored them wrong. If Gibson was to then build them to be stored the way you want to store them, that line of reissues would then be made "wrong". And the majority who want these would not get what they want.

I myself could see maybe using every one of the "innovations". But for sure, not at once. If the 335 or 345 would have been available with the wide neck, I would have maybe bought. Adjustable nut..that's a no-brainer. If it was truly made to work, there are a few guitars I would PUT it on. I am a firm believer in nut height and action there. Some of my guitars have the nut cut very low, some higher. G-force, definitely would not have on a gigging guitar or a workhorse guitar, but I might try it on a couch guitar, just to mess with open tunings.

Never store your baby in an attic or a place that gets to 100 degress F.

It's really the only thing that is relevant. What you own, what you bought, is only between you and the seller. If you have a problem with the merchandise, then you take it up with the one you did business with. The one who YOU bought it from. Why should anyone be held responsible for a transaction they had no part of? You really expect Gibson to give you a dime when you yourself never did business with Gibson? Never paid them a cent yourself? Think about it: All YOUR complaints with these guitars, and what you think Gibson should do, could have very well been addressed between the "original" purchaser and the dealer they bought it from.

Perhaps before you learn about what type of bridge is "supposed" to go on what guitar, when certain bridges were used, you might do better to learn about what Pickgaurds are "supposed" to be on what guitars, and when certain pickguards were used.

You are in the minority, regarding THOSE particular models. Gibson DOES make guitars that don't have corroding Pickgaurds. It's only on SOME models, as in, the ones made to be LIKE the old ones, that they use the gaurds LIKE the old ones. Like the original purchaser of the guitars you were complaining about?

As has been said, this is not what the vast majority of customers want. For certain models, they want "vintage spec". That means the same materials, and the same risk that has happened and WILL happen to these guitars if they are stored this way for great lengths of time. Again, nothing to correct. Rather, the effort has been made to "educate" you and others that if you want these models of guitars, you have to store them correctly. Nothing wrong with these guitars, it's just the storage method. As an alternative, you could have guards made that don't cause this.

I feel your sentiment. I think cases are a necessity from a "storage" aspect. Cases stack, and at times, get stacked on. 3 or 4 guitars in bags, that's a pain. That applies to Fenders. For Gibbys, or acoustics, not a chance. Would never store on in a bag. I have actually gigged with "gig bags", (Fenders, of corse), even as there was a case for the guitar left at home. There are handy that way. But that's small gigs, or jams, or band practice, etc. But ain't toured, with is more like moving. that calls for cases.

Truly funny. And actually, true.

Why wouldn't you just get the case when you get the guitar? I am sure that whoever is going to sell the guitar will have a case for it. There is NO reason why you should feel forced to buy a new guitar without one, just because it says "no case". Just make it part of the deal...find out what they have, and how much the guitar will be with this case or that. Simple.

Yea, but I no longer play in bars (or hardly at all, for that matter). If you want to give me a Christmas present, I certainly would have no objections AT ALL to a new SG. Sans case, even. I will not look the gift horse in the mouth. Promise.

Ain't nothing to feel guilty about. You wanted a case, and you bought the one you wanted. Me, I like Gibson cases. Partial to the expensive ones, myself. Just don't like paying for them. So I take what I can get.

Of corse, if I had MY way, guitars would ship without pickups.

Agree also. But how much SHOULD we want to spend on a case? Cases can get expensive. Those "Cali girl" cases, or even the black ones, can cost as much as 400 bucks. "COST" on that could be as much as 200? 250? or maybe 150? Compared to a molded case that's half that. That can have a serious effect on the price of the guitar. IF a guitar comes with a case, like it or not, separate or not, you are stuck with that price of whatever case being part of the guitar. At the extreme, a $1000 guitar with a $400 case attached to it is a $1400 guitar, OR leaves a dealer with a $400 case to unload if they want to sell the guitar for 1k. Personally, I would rather decide myself what case is "appropriate" for the guitar and be able to choose how much I want to spend for it. On the flip side, if most guitars are shipped with cases, (especially if they are the nicer $400 cases), chances are much better I'm gonna get that case for cost when I buy the guitar.

I kinda agree, although I personally want a case for each guitar. The other thing though, is it levels the playing field to some degree as what prices are advertised. We don't think about it, but sometimes those "competitive" advertised prices are WITHOUT a case even though Gibson may have shipped it with the guitar.

Yup. Still that way with me (though it's been a good 6 or 8 years sinse I bought anything). Been a couple times where the deal was done, ready to go, even card swiped, where it all starts over because it ain't happening without the case. And they look at me like I'M crazy.

I don't know. As far as I am concerned, ALL good guitars come with a case, because that's what you tell the salesman selling it to you that you need. Guitar Center, at least, they have a policy of separating the case from the guitar anyway. At least they used to. So you have to get down to it no matter what. Cases have gotten more expensive. I think the "appropriate" case for these guitars is a 300 dollar case. I think the 2015 cases are like 100 dollar cases. Both work just as good, in my humble (for a guitarist) opinion. Maybe it's a favor to all of us, that the buyer now has to make a decision, what case do you want, and how much do you want to pay for it? I don't actually know what I am talking about. Perhaps it's more a matter that Gibson has just allowed the practice of dealers setting a MAP without the case, and nothing has changed as far as what Gibson ships.

I have seen two versions of the brass "zero-fret" nut, with different shapes to them, and I haven't seen the chrome one, though I have heard of it, seen pics on the net. If it was available as an aftermarket accessory, I would gladly try it. (provided, it didn't require mods to the guitar, and could easily be switched back to the original nut). The few I tried when they first appeared had problems with binding- as in, the string would catch and the guitar would not stay in tune. And one where the string had left a groove, it DID "ping" when bending up there...not to mention the string would not always go back to the center position. Having said that, these were guitars in a shop, as in not mine. Had I had one to mess with? I kinda think maybe I could have filed it or polished it to make it work. Maybe, maybe not. My understanding, is the "second" version with the more definite string grooves behind the "fret" part solved this. And perhaps the plated or silver ones made of a different materiel solved the rest. I don't really know. Either way, being the freak I am about well cut nuts, string height at the nut, intonation, etc., not to mention ALL the complaints everyone seems to have about nuts, an easily replaceable and adjustable nut is really the best idea to come along in a long, long time. I mean, so what if it goes bad? just drop another one in. Can't do that with "traditional" nuts that are cut and installed EVERY TIME.

I thought I was, giving you feedback. No experience with THAT particular pup in one of MY guitars, but I am familiar with it, as well as other humbuckers of similar sound and output. And I have tried a number of guitars with coil splitting, and a few with those particular pups, (I think...but to be accurate, I can't be sure they weren't another in the newer Gibby's, as there is some overlap of the '57 classic and the Burstbucker stuff). To be sure, I have tried, and liked the '57 classic. Therefore, my answer of no, they likely don't sound all that great split (to me). With an explanation. I would go a little further, in saying that (to me), the pups that SEEM to sound the best when split are some of the Dimarzio's, but also, these are generally hotter, and I am not convinced that the hotter pups sound better than the classic spec Gibby humbucker. But to be fair, many, if not most of that particular brand makes pups for more specific things...distinctive tones, particular in the distorted realm. While I can't, and won't, say if the '57 classic sounds better than, say a Burstbucker 2 when split, I am going to make a guess that very, very few have done a comparism judging the quality of the split sound. To spite MY opinions here, I don't think it's a bad question. Might be, the only way to answer it is to try it yourself. Now, if I had to guess, if making an "upgrade" to your Carvin by swapping the pups for the '57 classic, AND you like the split more of the Carvin pups, you are more likely to find a loss in quality of one mode while improving the other.

I can't see anything in the pic. But if the CAPMASTER is correct and it's polishing compound or wax on the surface, I would think a good guitar cleaner, like a "restore" type would get it off. Be sure, of corse, unless you have experience with different products, get one that's made for guitars.

I am assuming you mean turning yellow as opposed to white. That is a result of the finish turning more amber or yellow with time. ALL guitars will do this, and especially the more traditional nitro finish Gibson uses. You likely only notice it on the binding, but the whole finish is that way. Even the binding itself, with no finish over it. will "age" with time. It's not a bad thing. Just is. Some prefer it. Anyway, there isn't much you can do about it. If you scrape the finish off, then you will have no finish at that edge and it will wear faster. Even if you scrape the top layer off, it will turn amberish again.

Just my opinion, but to me, there is no reason to ever split coils. 1) they NEVER sound as good, or like, an actual single coil pup that sounds good. 2) a pup turned down (volume knob) to me, sounds better than using half of the pup. 3) better to find a pup that sounds the best, rather than a pup that makes compromises to sound good in split mode. That's mostly my experience. If a guitar has a split mode, great. No harm. Doesn't hurt. Doesn't bother me. But then, also, while I don't have all that much experience with humbuckers, I have found that I think the single conductor ones tend to sound better than the 4 conductor versions. But that might be me splitting hairs.

Looks like a pretty big finish crack. While the GC guy might be right, I doubt it. It would be rare for a crack in this type of finish to be this much if not for something causing it. As for a good luthier, it's going to be easy to determine what is the cause of the crack. Being able to determine if it is a defect or caused by humans, that's going to be harder. I don't pretend to suggest I can tell from these pics, but what I can see looks like chances of it being a defect are slim. Being honest, chances that the wood somehow gave way on it's own are probably less likely than something happening to the guitar you were unaware of or forgot about. Epiphone, I understand they have a real good warrantee. Might be time to put it to the test. If you had bought it from a dealer, as in, a guitar shop, you would have a much better shot. Buying from Amazon, and 4 years later, I don't know.

I likes this. That pretty much goes for ANY Gibby, new or old, whatever your personal taste. Put the strings where YOU want them wherever that may be.

I don't think there is actually a "problem" with this guitar, (although I can't judge from the pics). It is very common for a guitar to have the strings NOT centered on the fretbaord. It's actually more proper. Most players have a tendancy to not like the strings close to the edge on the treble side, because they can slip off the edge doing vibrato or bends and such. It's not an issue for most on the bass side. Neck width, string spacing, it all comes down to taste, and a little give and take here and there. It's a judgement call. The more effort is taken by the guitar maker, or a luthier doing a set-up (it CAN be changed), the more often they end up off-center as it seems to work better for most. It's only a "problem" if the guitar doesn't play well for you.