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EBM5 in the bag in Oz!


eggs

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Posted

I'll post photos on the weekend!

LOL... welcome to the forums dungeon kytty [scared]

 

RTH (whose PM box is always bloody full!) is sure to spot this post here, & I want to confirm my thinking re that required gold tophat knob with him before we go shopping [wink]

 

But while we are waiting, let's see what he had to say about this bass back in June 2011 [thumbup]

 

http://forum.gibson.com/index.php?/topic/69954-epiphone-ebm/

Posted

Congrats on the EBM! Great basses, but not without their quirks. Some people think the necks feel rubbery, but I dont see it. Others dont like the narrower string spacing. I thinks its great for small hands as long as you arent trying to play slap bass. Personally, I like the spacing and the width of the neck in general. It is only about a milimeter or so bigger than a normal Epiphone guitar neck, so if you like the feel of a Les Paul or SG (or most any other Epiphone), the EBM should feel right at home in your hands.

 

One great thing about these basses, is that they see to hold tune extremely well with the stock tuners. I've let mine sit for weeks only to pick it up and have it still be in tune, with the possible exception of the low B.

 

Two things that are not so great about the EBM are, one, the bridge saddles, which if you take care of them will last forever. But if you need a replacement, you wont be able to find one because they are somewhat proprietary. I had to buy some generic saddles and shave them down on a bench grinder. The other thing, and probably the worst feature, are the potentiometers. They are mini-pots soldered to a circuit board. The problem is that they are inherently scratchy...especially if your bass doesnt get much play time. Replacing them requires soldering skills for board circuitry...which I dont have. The best thing to do is to buy some canned air and maybe something specifically for cleaning potentiometers...like tuner/degreaser or something. Anything that doesnt leave a film on them should work. No WD-40. Just open the back and give them a little cleaning when the start to get scratchy.

 

The only other thing about these basses is that the pickups are active ceramics. They are pretty hot and it may take some experimenting to get a tone that you like. Amplification plays a big part in this too. But that is really a matter of preference to your ears.

 

If you have any other questions about these basses, just ask and I'll do my best to answer.[thumbup]

Posted

Stu, what was the question you had for me? I cant seem to find it.

kytty is going to need to replace one (or all perhaps?) of the gold tophat knobs on this bass.

 

There always seems to be plenty available on eBay, but is there anything special we should be looking out for by way of sizings etc?

 

Also, after kytty jagged her bass, this EBM5 has appeared in the U.S...

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/330908831963?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

I don't think you have any specs/pics listed on the 'Unofficial Epi-Wiki' for a fretted EBM5 with a 3x2 tuner configuration [woot] ... also, I think your reversed/non-reversed headstock info may need a bit of review across that whole listing :-k ... but, FWIW, I think the 5 x straight tuner configuration (like kytty's) looks way hotter than the 3x2 tuner configuration on this advertised bass [thumbup]

 

Thanks for your help Robin, which could prove to be quite important in the history of Epi-Brethrendom later this year / early 2014 [wink]

Posted

Yeah, I have the 3x2 configuration listed for the EBM-5. The only pics I have with that configuration for the EBM-5 are the fretless & custom versions. I couldnt find a good pic of a standard fretted version. Pretty sure my reverse/non-reverse headstock info is correct. Even the pic in the ebay listing is a non-reverse headstock. The EBM-4 & 5 were the same, in that the later models with 3x2 & 3x1 configurations all had non-reverse headstocks. I believe that the reverse headstock models were called "Rebels" though. I dont think I made mention of that in the wiki. It looks like I left out all of the headstock info for the Custom model. Er, it looks like I left out a bunch of info for the Custom. I must have been in a hurry.

 

 

As far as the control knobs, nothing to look out for other than the typical metric-sized shaft & splines. Its the same as any othe Epiphone in that regard. Though, I think those amber knobs are hideous. lol. I have a set of old-school Rickenbaker style knobs on mine and they look awesome on this body style.

 

I also agree about the headstock style too. The 4 & 5 in a row looks really good. The 4x1 & 3x2 look goofy. I'm not really sure why they did that. The original tuner configuration didnt have any type of stability issues at all. In fact, they were super stable and hardly ever went out of tune...with the possible exception of the low B, but that is typical for any 5-string. They also got rid of the pearloid Thunderbird truss rod cover and put a big clunky looking "E" at the end of the headstock. The neck looked cheaper altogether for some reason after the redesign. Most likely I would totally pass on one of those models unless the price was very very cheap.

 

I saw an EBM-5 Custom come up for sale on my local craigslist for $300 last week. Instant GAS!. Unfortunatley, I havent picked up a bass in over a year, so it was a no-go as I couldnt justify the purchase.

Posted

Yeah, I have the 3x2 configuration listed for the EBM-5.

My bad, in my excitement I didn't notice the dual referencing to both the 3x2 & straight 5 [blush]

 

The only pics I have with that configuration for the EBM-5 are the fretless & custom versions. I couldnt find a good pic of a standard fretted version.

Hopefully that listing might help then [thumbup]

 

Pretty sure my reverse/non-reverse headstock info is correct. Even the pic in the ebay listing is a non-reverse headstock.

OK... now I'm confused... So my beloved 'Weirdbird' had a non reverse body but a reverse headstock [confused]

 

http://forum.gibson.com/index.php?/topic/53253-meet-the-weirdbird/page__view__findpost__p__715965

 

As far as the control knobs, nothing to look out for other than the typical metric-sized shaft & splines. Its the same as any othe Epiphone in that regard. Though, I think those amber knobs are hideous. lol.

I've never got why so many people are down on amber &/or gold tophat knobs... I freakin' love 'em [love]

 

I also agree about the headstock style too. The 4 & 5 in a row looks really good. The 4x1 & 3x2 look goofy.

Amen to that [cool]

 

Unfortunatley, I havent picked up a bass in over a year

WT#... Don't make me come over there Robin [-X

 

Anyways, as always, thanks for the wealth of info provided here =D>

 

I am sure kytty will be most grateful once she gets her 'A' down the staircase to read this [biggrin]

Posted

My bad, in my excitement I didn't notice the dual referencing to both the 3x2 & straight 5 [blush]

 

 

Hopefully that listing might help then [thumbup]

 

 

OK... now I'm confused... So my beloved 'Weirdbird' had a non reverse body but a reverse headstock [confused]

 

http://forum.gibson....post__p__715965

 

 

I've never got why so many people are down on amber &/or gold tophat knob... I freakin' love 'em [love]

 

 

Amen to that [cool]

 

 

WT#... Don't make me come over there Robin [-X

 

Anyways, as always, thanks for the wealth of info provided here =D>

 

I am sure kytty will be most grateful once she gets her 'A' down the staircase to read this [biggrin]

 

Most grateful Indeed!!!!

Its great that a total newb like me can come here and get great advice. Thanks to everyone!msp_biggrin.gifmsp_biggrin.gif

 

What worries me more than the gold tops is the fact that one is broken and what effect they may have on the potentiometer (?)

Also the truss rod cover is missingmsp_unsure.gif 1) are these easy to come by and 2) which one should she have?

There is minimal gravel rash on the back and barely a mark on the front. The neck looks like its never been played. The fretboard looks a little hungry and dry. The strings are incrediably rusty

She was remarkably easy to carry (no bag) home on the train last night which I am hoping will mean she will be easy on my shoulders should i gig her

I will look into amps when I take her in for a once over and some TLC next week.

For some reason this system is not allowing me to upload photos today but I will as soon as I can

Her serial number is S4107310 Made in Korea in ink onto headstock and a yellow paper sticker EMB5-CH

Thanks again to everyone and especially you Eggs and Robin

 

 

Posted

Also the truss rod cover is missingmsp_unsure.gif 1) are these easy to come by and 2) which one should she have?

I nicked this photo from Robin to show you what the TRC looks like, which is both a bit more complicated than I had recollected & wouldn't be resolved by the TRC I had in mind / mentioned in the Epi-Lounge 'What's On Your Mind' thread #-o

 

rth-albums-ebm-picture47822-ebm-family.jpg

Posted

Kytty, is the potentiometer shaft broken? I certainly hope not, as these pots are difficult to replace and may need to be done by a tech...unless you have experience soldiering to circuit boards.

 

I'm pretty sure your bass should have the reverse Thunderbird style truss cover. Unfotunately, you need a reverse truss cover. You either have to find one from another EBM or from a non-reverse Thunderbird....made approximately the same years as the EBM. You might end up having to get something made for it. Also, the truss cover was pearloid.

 

As a side note to help on your hunt, the non-reverse Thunderbirds had reverse headstocks, while the regular "reverse" Thunderbirds have non-reverse headstocks,.

 

These basses are extremely comfortable to play and no neck diving. Pretty light weight, but not too light. The body is Alder, so it has what I would call a "medium weight" to the bass. Heavy enough to feel like a good bass, but not a back breaker like Fenders.

Posted

 

WT#... Don't make me come over there Robin [-X

 

It is unfortunate, but true. I mean, I've picked it up briefly for a minute to test out an amp, but thats about it. I dont really play much bass unless I'm in a band or doing some home recording. I've been playing a lot of guitar instead. Thats where I really need practice anyway.

Posted

Kytty, is the potentiometer shaft broken? I certainly hope not, as these pots are difficult to replace and may need to be done by a tech...unless you have experience soldiering to circuit boards.

 

I'm pretty sure your bass should have the reverse Thunderbird style truss cover. Unfotunately, you need a reverse truss cover. You either have to find one from another EBM or from a non-reverse Thunderbird....made approximately the same years as the EBM. You might end up having to get something made for it. Also, the truss cover was pearloid.

 

As a side note to help on your hunt, the non-reverse Thunderbirds had reverse headstocks, while the regular "reverse" Thunderbirds have non-reverse headstocks,.

 

These basses are extremely comfortable to play and no neck diving. Pretty light weight, but not too light. The body is Alder, so it has what I would call a "medium weight" to the bass. Heavy enough to feel like a good bass, but not a back breaker like Fenders.

 

Thanks for all this great info !!

Regarding the pot shaft - Although the knob itself has a large chunk out of the side of it, it is still appears to operate. That's not to say it is not cracked. Can i check it by simply removing the knob and locking nut or is it best to remove the circuit board to check it properly? I would be happy to have a crack at basic soldering but have never done anything on circuit boards. I haven't had the back off it yet.

this links to a photo of the broken knob

http://forum.gibson.com/index.php?/topic/91169-the-all-new-whats-on-your-mind-this-day-thread/page__view__findpost__p__1364369

 

"As a side note to help on your hunt, the non-reverse Thunderbirds had reverse headstocks, while the regular "reverse" Thunderbirds have non-reverse headstocks,."

As confusing as this seems I think I understand.

Overall I am guessing that may prove more problematic than the potentiometers... maybe making something is the way to go?

 

I agree regarding the overall weight and "feel" of the bass. Not at all heavy and fells balanced. I like the feel of the neck too. I have rather small hands but can reach most of the sound board with out excessive stretching.

 

I cant wait to fire it up on Thursday smile.gif

Thanks again for your help

Posted

It sounds like just the knob is broken. Probably when someone tried to remove it or put it back on. The potentiometer should be fine. Those knobs are easy to come by, so replacing it shouldnt be a problem. I wouldnt mess with the pots and definitely dont try and pull the circuit board out.

 

And like I said earlier, the pots will be scratchy most likley. I always turn them back and forth really fast about six times each to clear out some of the dust and scratchiness. That will help to a point, but you will probably need to spray them out initially and every so often.

Posted

Oh, as far as the truss cover goes, you may need to have one made if you cant find one, Or you might be able to buy one for a Thunderbird and flip it upside down. It may look a little weird up close, but it will cover the hole. If you decide to go the route of having one made, I can make a template from mine and email it to you. Just let me know if you need me to do it. [thumbup]

Posted

Oh, as far as the truss cover goes, you may need to have one made if you cant find one, Or you might be able to buy one for a Thunderbird and flip it upside down. It may look a little weird up close, but it will cover the hole. If you decide to go the route of having one made, I can make a template from mine and email it to you. Just let me know if you need me to do it. [thumbup]

 

I would definitely be interested in the template. If you could scan and email (PM) it that would be fantastic.

Thanks!msp_thumbup.gif

When you mention "spraying" the potentiometers I am correct in guessing you mean compressed air?

Posted

Compressed air might work depending on the severity of the scratchiness. If that doesnt take care of it, yuo may need to buy something designed for lubricating potentiometers.

 

I'll work on getting a template together for the truss cover this weekend.

Posted

Thanks for the suggestions guys

Thanks Robin, that would be great if you can!

 

 

Seems this bass has a few problems msp_crying.gif

 

I noticed the neck had a slight bow. The guys adjusted it got it nice and level only to see in less than 5 mins it was out again. Also two pots don't work (no not the one with the broken knob). My soldering skills are at best "Agricultural" So i have left it in the shop for the guys to weave their magic eusa_pray.gif

 

I'll keep you updated

Posted

Yikes. Thats not good. Sounds like a broken or unseated truss rod. Not sure what that kind of fix would entail. The pots shouldnt be a big deal for a tech to replace, but I think that the truss rod situation should be reconciled before you sink any other money in to it.

 

I didnt get a chance to make that template last weekend. I was going to shoot for this weekend, but we should probably wait until the truss rod problem is figured out for that too. There is no point in making a cover if the truss rod isnt working. Keep me posted on this situation. As soon as it is figured out, I'll go ahead and make the template if all is well with the bass.

Posted

Hey guys, Good news.

The neck on the bass has settled down and now seems to be behaving itself. Apparently it had be "adjusted" incorrectly and took a bit of fiddling with. It has sat in the tech shop for a week now with out being adjusted and it is straight and true. Dave is happy with it and is now ready to set to and work on the pots. msp_thumbup.gifmsp_thumbup.gif

I have ordered in a new hard shell case for it.

Next off the rank will be an amp.... I guess this is were the fun starts.

Any ideas on amp for this bad puppy?

Posted

Hey guys, Good news.

The neck on the bass has settled down and now seems to be behaving itself. Apparently it had be "adjusted" incorrectly and took a bit of fiddling with. It has sat in the tech shop for a week now with out being adjusted and it is straight and true. Dave is happy with it and is now ready to set to and work on the pots. msp_thumbup.gifmsp_thumbup.gif

I have ordered in a new hard shell case for it.

Next off the rank will be an amp.... I guess this is were the fun starts.

Any ideas on amp for this bad puppy?

 

Thats great news! I'll get going on the truss cover template this weekend.

 

Amps are such a personal choice, its hard to make a good recommendation. Bass amps can also tend to be expensive. You basically pay double the money per watt compared to a guitar amp.

 

If you are planning on playing this bass in a band, I would suggest nothing smaller than a 100 watt amp. And that can easily be too small for a louder band situation. But that also depends on the speaker size and ohms. With this bass in particular, I strongly suggest that you get something with a 15" speaker. a 12" might be ok, but a 10" or multiple 10"s will make the bass sound harsh and trebley. I played mine for years with a 4-10 cab and always had problems with the sound at "band" volumes. When I started using a 2-15 cab, it sounded WAY better and was easier to dial in a good tone. It was much louder too and I didnt have to push the amp as hard.

 

As far as brand, I would first determine your budget, whats available (locally or otherwise) and go from there. If you get an idea of some different amps that you like, post 'em up and we'll take a look. [thumbup]

Posted

Hi Kytty,

 

I've been busy this week and I'm just getting up to date.Now I understand about the true neck business.

 

As far as amps etc go,I've been in a studio for the last 2 days beside a bass rig.I converted the 2 x 18 Vox cab into a 2 x 15 using Celestion 400 watt PA speakers.I also chopped down an H/H PA100 amp to a 2 channel and re-housed it in a Vox head.Along with the German made Hoefner violin bass it sounds amazing.

 

I personally now use an Ampeg 1 x 15" bass cab (200 watt).I got rid of the 4 x 10 Ampeg.Didn't like it and too heavy.

 

Sorry for wittering,,,,,my point is, these old PA amps are as cheap as chips and sound great on 15" cabs.So for a bit of budget experimentation,I suggest you try that.

 

Speaking as a bass player,I only want volume,treble and bass controls on my amp.Fancy amps with EQs,filters,octividers and coffee machines installed cost much more and have more circuits to go wrong.

 

Hope this helps,,,,JC.

Posted

Speaking as a bass player,I only want volume,treble and bass controls on my amp.Fancy amps with EQs,filters,octividers and coffee machines installed cost much more and have more circuits to go wrong.

 

I agree that the simpler the unit the better. However, having high & low mid controls can be quite useful in a live situation....especially with the EBM. The pickups are ceramic actives and tend to be harsh if you dont tame them. The mid controls will help this situation to a very useful degree.

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