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Strap peg hole


Manfred33

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I have an Epi LP Custom and the strap peg on the bottom of the guitar got knocked out by my kids.... grrrrh. Anyways, there is no damage but the hole is now obviously bigger than the screw for the peg. Forgive my being a novice at this repair stuff, I actually have a Dan Erlewine book on guitar repair, but find nothing about this kind of fix. Can i just use regular old wood filler from the hardware store to fill this hole and then redrill a starter hole for the peg? Or should i use something more specialized for guitar repair? I have searched on Stew Mac but could not really find anything that seemed like wood filler.... If some could point me to something on Stew Mac that would be great, or just let me know if I can use regular old filler.

 

Thanks,

Manfred

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toothpick

 

or a couple toothpicks if its a big enough hole.

 

Sounds dumb, but works. Some people say to put a little wood glue on them before putting them in the hole, but I've always just used them "dry".

 

I've done it a couple times and it seems to work well.

 

NHTom

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toothpick

 

or a couple toothpicks if its a big enough hole.

 

Sounds dumb, but works. Some people say to put a little wood glue on them before putting them in the hole, but I've always just used them "dry".

 

I've done it a couple times and it seems to work well.

 

NHTom

 

Ok, so pardon my ignorance and forgive me for being slow, but you mean stick toothpicks in the hole to fill it or what? That is what i am not quite getting.... and then screw the strap peg back in? Just doesn't sound very permanent to me.... but i guess I am a skeptic more often than not.

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Tom has your fix, I've done this enough times myself.

 

What I usually do is take two of the "flat" tooth picks, cut them them so that they fit in the screw hole, (top of the tooth pick, is the same height as top of the screw whole.) and I do sneak a small amount of white wood glue in there.

 

Reinstall your strap button/screw and let it sit. once it cures, it will only come out if you want it to.

(just don't use a lot of glue. a drop or two is plenty.)

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Tom has your fix, I've done this enough times myself.

 

What I usually do is take two of the "flat" tooth picks, cut them them so that they fit in the screw hole, (top of the tooth pick, is the same height as top of the screw whole.) and I do sneak a small amount of white wood glue in there.

 

Reinstall your strap button/screw and let it sit. once it cures, it will only come out if you want it to.

(just don't use a lot of glue. a drop or two is plenty.)

 

Ok, I see what you mean.... I only have the stupid round ones though....msp_cursing.gif Are the flat ones tapered at the end too like the round ones? Can't remember how they look. Just not sure if you trim them by removing the tapered ends or if that is even necessary. So, once you put them in along with the glue, do you just screw the peg back in? Or do you let it set at all first before screwing the peg back in? Sorry, I am a bear for details.... msp_biggrin.gif Just want to do it right the first time, etc....

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toothpick

 

or a couple toothpicks if its a big enough hole.

 

Sounds dumb, but works. Some people say to put a little wood glue on them before putting them in the hole, but I've always just used them "dry".

 

I've done it a couple times and it seems to work well.

 

NHTom

I did the same to mount Strap Locks on my L6S guitars since the hole of the lower strap knob screw was too wide for the provided one fitting the body part of the lock. OK, the screw is about twice as long as that on a neck-body joint, but in these cases it works perfectly.

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Ok, I see what you mean.... I only have the stupid round ones though....msp_cursing.gif Are the flat ones tapered at the end too like the round ones? Can't remember how they look. Just not sure if you trim them by removing the tapered ends or if that is even necessary. So, once you put them in along with the glue, do you just screw the peg back in? Or do you let it set at all first before screwing the peg back in? Sorry, I am a bear for details.... msp_biggrin.gif Just want to do it right the first time, etc....

 

Hi Manfred

 

You can use a round one, take an xacto knife split it so that you can surround the existing hole. - (you just want some "fresh" wood in there for the screw to bite into when you put it back in)

 

don't worry about the tapered ends, but if you cut them so you have them, put the taper end to the top of the hole, you want the most traction deeper in screw hole.

 

and I've never worried about letting the glue dry, (just check that there's no glue on the body outside the screw hole, you'll want to make sure if down the road if for some reason you want to put another button on (like a strap lock button for example) the glue doesn't do any thing funky to the finish..

 

and as Tom said, you honestly don't need to use any glue at all, so you could probably skip that..

 

I just always put a drop on there just to make sure it isn't going anywhere.

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The same technique works well for stripped holes for pickguard screws, pickup ring screws, etc, etc.

 

It just gives the screw some new wood to bite into. The glue is probably a good idea. I've done it without any and had no problems, but if I had some around, I'd do it.

 

NHTom

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