semi-hollowbody Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 I cant loosen the truss without more force than I am comfortable with...will a little wd40 on the nut help? do I need penetrating oil? fret buzz is the issue, mostly on low e and a...NOT open, but when fretted on first to 5th frets, after that buzz is not noticeable ...raised the bridge a tad, hoping to not have to any more as I like the action I usually do 1/8 turns, 1/4 MAX and let it sit over night...might try to tune one step UP to increase tension on neck and then try to loosen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitmore Willy Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 Semi-hollowbody, What is your current deflection? The accepted norm is around .010". Are you sure it is not a fret problem? Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
semi-hollowbody Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 Deflection? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amx05462 Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 be careful withthat truss rod. my advice would be tale it to your local luthier. i had one in an epiphone sg strip out a few years ago. that being said.. the best penetration oil ive ever used is called kroil i bought it onthe net http://www.kanolabs.com/msn/ at the same time i bought a can for my brother. i havent used mine but he used it on many things and on his boat trailer which has had stuff seized from being imersed in salt water. also i loaned my can out to a friend who couldnt get the boat motor leg off his engine. again imersed in salt water . he got it off the next day after spraying it with this stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capmaster Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 I cant loosen the truss without more force than I am comfortable with...will a little wd40 on the nut help? do I need penetrating oil? fret buzz is the issue, mostly on low e and a...NOT open, but when fretted on first to 5th frets, after that buzz is not noticeable ...raised the bridge a tad, hoping to not have to any more as I like the action I usually do 1/8 turns, 1/4 MAX and let it sit over night...might try to tune one step UP to increase tension on neck and then try to loosen? The latter might help, but you're right being very careful. A bad truss rod thread is a very evil thing. In case I had to remove a nut completely, I always cleaned the thread carefully using a tooth brush and a vacuum cleaner. Then I cleaned the nut, put some penetrating oil on it taking care that there will nothing make its way to the wood later, and reassembled. In any case of doubt I would leave the work to a reputable luthier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vomer Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 penetrating oil on it taking care that there will nothing make its way to the wood later, What capmaster said, particularly keep the oil off the wood. Also, a trick from motorcycle mechanics I used often: put a small socket over the truss rod onto the nut and give it a *gentle* few taps with a rubber mallet or similar. This can help break any adhesions in the thread. Then, try giving the hex key a light tap while it's in the nut. Has the neck ever had a repair? Is there any possibility of glue in the thread? And last but not least, sorry to ask, but to double check are you going the right way for loosening? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capmaster Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 What capmaster said, particularly keep the oil off the wood. Also, a trick from motorcycle mechanics I used often: put a small socket over the truss rod onto the nut and give it a *gentle* few taps with a rubber mallet or similar. This can help break any adhesions in the thread. Then, try giving the hex key a light tap while it's in the nut. Has the neck ever had a repair? Is there any possibility of glue in the thread? And last but not least, sorry to ask, but to double check are you going the right way for loosening? Very good point. Forgot to mention that remains of glue or finish were the very reasons of all the troubles I had with truss rod nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitmore Willy Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 Deflection? If you put a capo on the first fret and press down around the 13th or 16th fret...or where the body meets the neck. (just doesn't make that much difference) Next, slide an automotive feeler gauge between the metal fret and the low E string at the 7th - 9th fret. You should be around 10/1000 of an inch. (about .010") That is about the correct amount of relief/deflection/curvature that an Epi needs. I would also check the frets. When the neck is flat, you can use a credit card as a fret rocker. Check the frets where you are getting a buzz: Best of luck, Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capmaster Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 If you put a capo on the first fret and press down around the 13th or 16th fret...or where the body meets the neck. (just doesn't make that much difference) Next, slide an automotive feeler gauge between the metal fret and the low E string at the 7th - 9th fret. You should be around 10/1000 of an inch. (about .010") That is about the correct amount of relief/deflection/curvature that an Epi needs. I would also check the frets. When the neck is flat, you can use a credit card as a fret rocker. Check the frets where you are getting a buzz: Best of luck, Willy The capo method you describe here is very fine indeed. It allows for checking without the need of a third hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.