theapex Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 Regarding the wound G .. I'm not 100% about this, but I'm think the reason it stays in tune better is that it has higher tension when compared to an unwound G. Because of this, it also tends to stretch/bend less when you fret it. I think I read somewhere that all guitars use to have wound 3rd strings and the main reason it switched to an unwound 3rd is to help with bends. Most bends are apparently on the 3rd string. Having said that, if you don't mind bending a wound 3rd .. or mostly play rhythm .. I say go for a wound G and see if you like it. Heck, most jazz guitar string sets come with wound 3rds as well. Some sets to check out with wound 3rd's: D'Addario EXL110W (.010-.046) D'Addario EXL115W (.011-.049) Gibson L5 SEG-900L (.010-.046) Gibson L5 SEG-900ML (.011-.052) I use wound 3rds on both my acoustic (Martin D16) and my electric (Epiphone Casino Elitist) Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avirex Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 Thank you for answering about the G string, but the fact is that I play mostly blues...and what could be blues without bending ?? I sent a mail to grover, asking them if there is a precise way to install a string on this kind of machines . If I can't manage to play in tune, I will take a set of chrome standard rotomatic.That's what I had originaly on this Sherry, but in gold finish of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthewk Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 You can bend a wound G! They are very light and flexible compared to the heavier gauge wound strings. Another option for you might be an "Earvana" nut - the nut itself has slight offsets in string length designed to work around the difficulties of intonating each string correctly. They specifically try to compensate for problems with G. Again - it's not necessarily a tuning stability problem, you can check by using a meter and find out if it stays tuned to pitch. However your ears will sometimes detect that the G sounds sour, if you are sensitive to "temper" / scale issues like this. You can waste a lot of money on tuners before you will fix this issue, it's a design limitation of any fretted instrument. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lpdeluxe Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 Thank you for answering about the G string' date=' but the fact is that I play mostly blues...and what could be blues without bending ??[/quote'] I've been bending them since, let's see...1982. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theapex Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 Yes yes .. perhaps I should have mentioned that. It's definitely not impossible to bend a wound g. Far from it actually. I also bend the 3rd all the time for who knows how long. That was my mistake for making it seem like it's hard/not right/impossible to bend a wound g. I guess I should have said it's just EASIER to bend an unwound G and that bending is wound G is perfectly fine as well (or something to that effect). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender 4 Life Posted September 29, 2008 Share Posted September 29, 2008 I'm probably the only "special ed. kid" on these boards that "pulls" my bends as opposed to pushing them. it gives me much more control, and power......and with wound G's its a snap. Been playing for 33 + yrs.....hence my screen name. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suho Posted September 29, 2008 Share Posted September 29, 2008 I put Grover Rotomatic mini-locking tuners on my Sherry, with an unwound G string, but don't have any issues with the G. Everything stays pretty much as it should. Sorry to hear about your issues. The other tuners I use on many guitars are the Planet Waves Auto-Trim locking tuners. Maybe you will have some better luck with those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avirex Posted October 1, 2008 Share Posted October 1, 2008 About the rotomatics autoblocking issue... I think since now I've made two big mistake installing the strings... I've been for a long time a Fender player, and with a Fender you have to cut the string at the right length BEFORE installing it, you put it then in the vertical hole and make up to 4 or 5 turns. Extremely easy...My 66 strat has it's stock tuners and they are still like new, staying perfectly in tune. Doing that with the rotomatics has two serious issues: First, if you cut the string before installing it you'll surely have some blocking problem with the unwounded strings. Then, with the string not properly blocked you make five or more turns (as you don't trust the blocking system anymore...) !! When you surch to put the string in tune, after half turn the string suddenly loose half tone... Turning again you will be able to tune the string, but it will never stay in tune after a bending, even after hours of playing. Tonight I did exactly the opposit, I didn't cut the strings, and make a little bit more then half turn around the head of the tuners. It seems to be OK... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EpiSheriMan Posted October 3, 2008 Author Share Posted October 3, 2008 Slight changes to my initial plans. I'm no longer going with the ABR-1 & Gibson 57 Classic Humbuckers... - 2 x Nickel Seymour Duncan SH-55 Seth Lover pickups - 6 x Nickel Grover Rotomatic 18:1 tuners - DONE - Tonepros locking Nashville bridge and locking Tonepros tailpiece, Nickel - Custom made b/w/b ply pick guard with Nickel guard - From TWANG!!! - CTS potentiometers - Nickel anodised position markers - Nickel Switchcraft leaf switch with vintage amber knob - Nickel Switchcraft jack socket (Switchcraft 1/4" jack with the long shaft) - Bone nut - Schaller Nickel plated Strap Locks - DONE - Gibson "reflector" control knobs Got her booked in with my tech later this month and can't wait! Will post pictures as soon as poss...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthewk Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 When you surch to put the string in tune' date=' after half turn the string suddenly loose half tone...Turning again you will be able to tune the string, but it will never stay in tune after a bending, even after hours of playing. Tonight I did exactly the opposit, I didn't cut the strings, and make a little bit more then half turn around the head of the tuners. It seems to be OK...[/quote'] What you need to do is pass the string through, loop it around and pass it back underneath the string where it winds on to the tuner. This creates a "lock" and is the best way to get stable tuning. Have a look at this stringing guide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EpiSheriMan Posted October 3, 2008 Author Share Posted October 3, 2008 Looks like Matt Followill from KOL did a bit of work on his Sheri II as well! Chrome/Nickel Grovers........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbirchett Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 Slight changes to my initial plans. I'm no longer going with the ABR-1 & Gibson 57 Classic Humbuckers... - 2 x Nickel Seymour Duncan SH-55 Seth Lover pickups - 6 x Nickel Grover Rotomatic 18:1 tuners - DONE - Tonepros locking Nashville bridge and locking Tonepros tailpiece' date=' Nickel - Custom made b/w/b ply pick guard with Nickel guard - From TWANG!!! - CTS potentiometers - Nickel anodised position markers - Nickel Switchcraft leaf switch with vintage amber knob - Nickel Switchcraft jack socket (Switchcraft 1/4" jack with the long shaft) - Bone nut - Schaller Nickel plated Strap Locks - DONE - Gibson "reflector" control knobs Got her booked in with my tech later this month and can't wait! Will post pictures as soon as poss...... [/quote'] But Gold comes back in style next year! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EpiSheriMan Posted October 3, 2008 Author Share Posted October 3, 2008 Heheeee,...it is true that due to stock market woes everybody is jumping all over Gold as an investment! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mal Posted October 4, 2008 Share Posted October 4, 2008 Just took my lefty Sheraton II in. Currently all stock. Going to Seymour Duncan JB/Jazz set. Also adding push/pull coil tap on the volume pot for both and a bone nut. Had her for 7 years. It's about time I bought her a present. Hope the JB isn't too hot, but I'm a headbanger at heart. Should be more robust than stock. I'll post my thoughts once done. On tuning... I use a classical technique on the unwound strings. Fold the string 180 degrees, feed the loop through the tuner hole and feed the string end through the hole. Wind down as usual. Once you tighten up, it ain't going nowhere. Also good for poking little bloody holes in my fingers when I take them off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lpdeluxe Posted October 4, 2008 Share Posted October 4, 2008 Just took my lefty Sheraton II in. Currently all stock. Going to Seymour Duncan JB/Jazz set. Also adding push/pull coil tap on the volume pot for both and a bone nut. Had her for 7 years. It's about time I bought her a present. Hope the JB isn't too hot' date=' but I'm a headbanger at heart. Should be more robust than stock. I'll post my thoughts once done.[/quote'] My Sheraton II has that combo, but it's a little harsh on the top end through the wrong amp. This evening I played it through my '63 Silvertone Twin Twelve, and it sang, which it did not through my Hot Rod Blues Jr NOS. Before I plugged into the Silvertone, I was sure I was going to sell it...now I'm not sure -- and I've got a newly acquired ES-335 to keep happy, so it's a dilemma. Let us know how it sounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EpiSheriMan Posted December 4, 2008 Author Share Posted December 4, 2008 Got her back from the tech a while back and will post pictures of her soon. I know loads of folks are interested in the replacement bridge install.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EpiSheriMan Posted December 5, 2008 Author Share Posted December 5, 2008 Here we go then, as promised....... The new CTS 500K pots he installed make a huge difference to the sound.. Here's the solution to the issue that so many Forum Members have had with changing the Sheri stock bridge. The trick is making an off-set post. Here you can see the new Nickel Tonepros Locking Nashville bridge with an off-set post on the bottom post..... My only issue with the job is that my Bridge PUP is slightly off centre. This results in a lower output on the PUP, and I have to raise her and drop the Bridge PUP to balance output beween the two... A new Bone nut installed and new Nickel Grover Rotos 18:1 ratio... Summary of the mods: - 2 x Nickel plated Seymour Duncan Seth Lover Model Humbuckers - 6 x Nickel plated Grover Rotomatic 18:1 tuners - Nick plated Tonepros Nashville locking tune-o-matic bridge and locking Tonepros tailpiece - Custom made by TWANG black 2 ply pick guard - CTS 500K potentiometers - Nickel anodised position markers - Nickel Switchcraft leaf switch with vintage black knob - Nickel Switchcraft jack socket - Bone nut - Schaller Nickel plated Strap Locks - Gibson "reflector" control knobs Overall, I'm reasonably with the work Know I just need a fret dress as I got quite a bit of fret buzzz...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWANG Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 I hate to be a jerk.. I hesitate to even say this.. but your tech is a jerk. the replacement bridge for these would have given you just as good a bridge, with no messing about with offset anything. and besides that he should have compensated.. your string over the poles should have been spot on. he centered one side. then made the other off center. because that was easier than redoing both of them. I'd have put in the repro bridge.. and maybe added graph tech saddles.. and you'd have perfect string alignment, better tone and volume, no string binding and a great look. You could change this for the better by getting new unnotched saddles. Then you could at least get your pole string alignment right and full sound out of your pups. the rest of it looks great.. I love that finish.. ! the rest of it looks fine.. and I'm sorry I have to be such a crank .. TWANG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EpiSheriMan Posted December 5, 2008 Author Share Posted December 5, 2008 I'd have put in the repro bridge.. and maybe added graph tech saddles.. and you'd have perfect string alignment' date=' better tone and volume, no string binding and a great look. You could change this for the better by getting new unnotched saddles. Then you could at least get your pole string alignment right and full sound out of your pups.[/quote'] Not sure if I understand your solution TWANG. What do you mean when you say that you "..would have put in the repro bridge.."? They would not have matched up? Same problem everyone has with the stock Epi bridges.... Also, with regard to the un-notched saddles,.. I understand that the string positioning would be alot better. My question is: Do they just sit on the flat graphite saddles, or does one then have to make a new "notch" at the correct position? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthewk Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 You'd need a notch. However - Twang, couldn't he just notch the existing saddles a second time? Might look a little "off" but way cheaper ... I agree that it was a poor show to put the bridge off centre for the sake of only doing one adapter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWANG Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 the repro bridge matches the old style. fatter bridges. that came on korean sheris. your new on is skinnier. they have different spacing, hence the change. Here's a pic of a stock epi bridge beneath the repro sheri bridge.. if yours had the top style,this would have fit right in. chrome or gold http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff83/TWANGthang/AAAbridges3.jpg no bushing changes required there. your bridge saddles look too low to renotch, I could be wrong, but I think by the time you did, you'd have your strings hitting the back of the bridge because the notch would be too low with the saddles set forward as they must be for intonation. A way around that, would be to use a wraparound tail, so the strings passed over the top of the tailpiece, and wouldn't be at such a great angle. OR, you might be able to raise the tailpiece enough for the same effect. Looking at yours again.. right now.. it seems that most of the saddles are tall enough.. in fact, your notches are far enough off that it's possible you could put new notches next to them.. hard to say from a pic though. You should be able to tell.. try this.. detune the high e string... lift it out of it's notch.. move it so it's over the pole piece correctly.. and ask yourself if you think a notch could be put there without it running into the notch that's already there.. if it can.. then try that string by string.. about cutting notches.. file from the fret side toward the tail side. push the file ONLY in that direction..that way you've got a much better shot at keeping that leading edge perfectly square, so the string breaks cleanly off the saddle. If you decide to try that yourself let me know PM and I'll talk you through it. It does look to me that you could just move the notches over to a better position.. although I still think the guy was lazy.. he should have doweled both bushing holes and centered it right! But it looks easily doable from the pics, and wont show at all except for the extra notches. You'll be able to get full tone out of your pups, and better balance, better for bends.. it'll just be better to get that right. TWANG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthewk Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 Sorry Twang, just to clarify, those bridges fit the weirdo spacing on the late 90s MIK Sheratons? How much is a chrome one - whichever style you recommend? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EpiSheriMan Posted December 6, 2008 Author Share Posted December 6, 2008 the repro bridge matches the old style. fatter bridges. that came on korean sheris. your new on is skinnier.they have different spacing' date=' hence the change. Here's a pic of a stock epi bridge beneath the repro sheri bridge.. if yours had the top style,this would have fit right in. chrome or goldTWANG [/quote'] OK TWANG, I think I'm starting to understand what you are getting at. You are saying that there is a direct replacement bridge made by Epi. Problem is, I don't think anyone knows this, or how to find one! I personally contacted Epi Customer Service and got no joy. FYI - This is my old bridge. Would this replacement bridge you talk of be available as a strait fit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt Pokey Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Interesting ideas, folks. Let me toss in my two cents. Early this year, a buddy who also has a late 90's Sheri, did a rework and it made a big difference. He went with Lollar's which sounded better than the stock pu's, but wasn't what I was looking for. After doing some checking, here's what I wound up doing; -complete new wiring assembly from Mojo, -new Grovers, -TonePro bridge and tailpiece, -Lindy Fralin pu's (can't find my paperwork, but I'm pretty sure they were the 8k and 9k set) -stayed with all gold hardware (I love the look of gold on a burst finish) -got rid of the pickgaurd, -had it set up by a pro. A couple of years ago I started using .010 hybrid string sets, and love it. I went with these on my Sheri and this thing kicks butt and so far, no problems staying tuned. I normally play thru a Blues Dlx, but I just got my old Silvertone 1484 redone and I wish I played some gigs where I could use it with my revamped Sheri! I've only had it out in public a few times, but I've gotten a ton of compliments on the way it sounds...and looks. A quick PS, I liked the Fralins so much I just redid one of my Strats with them..also changed to a 25" scale neck from USA Custom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EpiSheriMan Posted December 6, 2008 Author Share Posted December 6, 2008 -TonePro bridge and tailpiece So how did you install these then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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