SlagJones Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 In order to setup an Epi LP Jr with a wraparound stop bar, the only thing you can really do is check relief and action? I have turned the screws on the bridge and it is as far as it goes and the action is still pretty high. Definitely higher than 5/64. Probably more like 7-8/64. There is no real way to adjust intonation? That's about all you can do, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostindesert Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 In order to setup an Epi LP Jr with a wraparound stop bar' date=' the only thing you can really do is check relief and action? I have turned the screws on the bridge and it is as far as it goes and the action is still pretty high. Definitely higher than 5/64. Probably more like 7-8/64. There is no real way to adjust intonation? That's about all you can do, right?[/quote'] If there are no intonation screws at the end of the stop bar you can't adjust it. Maybe a Badass replacement bridge/tailpiece can help for lower action and proper intonation. Made by Schaller and Badass. Or a ABM/PRS style wraparound bridge, it looks thinner then a regular stop bar. Btw if you got a bolt-on neck use a shim at the butt end of the neck/pocket for more angle. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antwhi2001 Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 String height (action) is a different adjustment to intonation (string length). Intonation adjustment involves moving the bridge back or forwards slightly to lengthen/shorten the strings. When it's wrongly adjusted, fretted srings will be slightly sharp or flat. When it's right, harmonic notes at the 12th fret will be exactly the same pitch as the fretted note at the 12th. To adjust string height (action) on a wrap-around bridge guitar, you have 3 factors to balance : 1. Bridge height adjustment (sounds like you tried this one) 2. Truss rod adjustment. This alters the bow/curvature of the neck. Tightening it (clockwise) will reduce curvature and bring the strings closer to the frets at the body end. If it's over-tightened, strings will buzz, and neck may crack. It should only be tightened about a quarter of a turn at a time, then left to settle for 30 mins or so, and checked. It's usually possible to get reasonable action by patient trial and error tweaking of those 2 elements. The third option, which I don't recommend you try yourself, is to shave a bit of height off the underside of the nut, which may be on the tall side. If the excess height is at the nut end this may be the solution. If it's at the body end bridge / truss rod adjustment should sort it. If it's one of the cheap bolt-on neck Juniors you may not be able to get very good action on it, they're pretty cheap necks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlagJones Posted March 13, 2009 Author Share Posted March 13, 2009 So pretty much with an Epi LP Jr, what you get is what you get... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antwhi2001 Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 I'd qualify that by saying the old set neck ones look like good guitars. The bolt-ons I've seen have been ok for a fairly low cost beginners guitar but not great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlagJones Posted March 13, 2009 Author Share Posted March 13, 2009 I'd qualify that by saying the old set neck ones look like good guitars. The bolt-ons I've seen have been ok for a fairly low cost beginners guitar but not great. True, true the 57 reissues and the like are probably much better. The regular Epi's aren't bad for basically a $100 guitar. I have just seen some for sale where the seller has said they have "dialed in" the intonation and the setup is perfect. I just wonder how they "dialed it in"? Now that I got one off fleabay, I don't see where I can dial it in and it has some other issues but I got it at a cheap price and it's just gonna be a beater and experiment guitar where I can try to learn how to do things like swap pickups, replace tuners, etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sledge57 Posted March 14, 2009 Share Posted March 14, 2009 I have a cheap bolt on neck Jr and it does have the screws to adjust intonation, see the two black allen heads on the bridge. However on mine they aren't long enough to do the job, they're bottomed out, so I will be replacing them shortly. Here's a pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennW Posted March 14, 2009 Share Posted March 14, 2009 There's nothing wrong with those bridges. I prefer them to T-O-M's because there's a total of seven pieces and nothing to rattle. Once it's set, it's set. If you relief is sorted out and you've screwed the bridge down as far as it will go, shim the neck a little and start over. If you're trying to intonate it and the factory adjustment screws aren't long enough, go to the hardware store and get some that are longer (about $0.38 for two). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest icantbuyafender Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 GFS sells superb replacements i recommend this one : http://store.guitarfetish.com/wiliadinwrbr.html and strongly recomend this one from personal experience: http://store.guitarfetish.com/chbastinwrbr.html my truss rod on my LP Jr was crapped out and stripped, so i put a shim and that baby on it and it fixed every problem. The one i strongly recomend has adjustable saddles, basically a tune o matic and a stop piece in one. happy hunting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennW Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Could you explain how a neck shim compensates for a stripped truss rod? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest icantbuyafender Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 couldnt do any neck adjustment so i literally had to adjust the insertion angle of the neck. i thought that was a truss rod issue. i couldnt fix it any other way. sue me if im wrong, sir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennW Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 The truss rod adjusts the bow aka relief in the neck, it has nothing to do with neck angle. As long as it works, it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest icantbuyafender Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 agreed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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