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My New Masterbilt EF500RCCE


kevin kyle

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sweet score from M/F purchased as a demo for only 703.00 got the masterbuilt soft/hard case with humidity indicater for 40.00 as well all case candy and full warranty included.... last one i could find anywhere that wasnt a refurb or 2nd. it is wonderfull and sounds like a martin ...sound beats the heck of of an over middy taylor....its my first accoustic and i am very very pleased.. pics:

 

 

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You say this is your first acoustic.

 

10's are exceptionally light for an acoustic guitar. Remember, to make sound, the acoustic has to move that top, as opposed to influence a magnetic field. 10's aren't going to be able to give enough power to get the top moving the way it was designed.

I would suggest you set it up for at least a set of 12's, which are light gauge for acoustics. You'll get the guitar working a bit more and it will really open up the sound. That guitar is dying to really sing, right now it's whispering.

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Sweet! I've had mine for almost three years now and I absolutely adore it. I actually have the older LR Baggs model without the controls on the side. (It just has one volume knob inside the soundhole.)

 

One thing to watch out for is the extremely fragile top. I play mine out and it defintely gets dinged up more than the glossy spruce tops that some of my friends are using. Personally, I enjoy seeing a little wear and tear on a guitar, but these cedar tops and the thin satin finish are very easy to nick.

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You say this is your first acoustic.

 

10's are exceptionally light for an acoustic guitar. Remember' date=' to make sound, the acoustic has to move that top, as opposed to influence a magnetic field. 10's aren't going to be able to give enough power to get the top moving the way it was designed.

I would suggest you set it up for at least a set of 12's, which are light gauge for acoustics. You'll get the guitar working a bit more and it will really open up the sound. That guitar is dying to really sing, right now it's whispering.[/quote']

 

 

 

well its an accoustic electric guitar so there are magnetic fields to be influenced and i am impressed with the sound and satisfied with the sound its producing. i like to play lead as well and i am getting nice bends and soulfull ringing harmonics with these ernie ball rocking blues bronze/steel strings

 

and the e-sonic bridge pickup is killer on the high end and the esonic neck pick up gets a great balance of deep jazz/blues chord tones... thanks for the advice but i am happy with the way it sounds and plays right now.......it came with 12's and it sounded a bit muddy and they were gibson masterbuilt bronze strings

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Sweet! I've had mine for almost three years now and I absolutely adore it. I actually have the older LR Baggs model without the controls on the side. (It just has one volume knob inside the soundhole.)

 

One thing to watch out for is the extremely fragile top. I play mine out and it defintely gets dinged up more than the glossy spruce tops that some of my friends are using. Personally' date=' I enjoy seeing a little wear and tear on a guitar, but these cedar tops and the thin satin finish are very easy to nick.

 

[/quote']

 

 

thanks alot for the heads up i am a rather abusive live player but i will not be playing accoustic at all in my band situation, they make me to all the flash electric stuff..

 

i have a question with the bridge and how to raise and lower the saddle piece.....not that it needs it.. but if it did do you replace them with pieces of differnt heights or do you just use a jewlers file and file it down (like a graphite or bone nut?)

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You shape the saddle for intonation and string height. Simple in theory, tricky in practice.

And the acoustic electric has a piezo element under the saddle, it works off string vibration, no magnetics. Another reason to put a larger gauge string on there IMO. Better sound plugged in too.

 

Don't use polish on a matte finish either.

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I am sure they do.

Fitting a saddle for an acoustic electric is a little different than a regular saddle. You need to be able to compress the piezo element under the saddle so you can transfer the string energy to the pickup. Therefor you need the saddle to be slightly loose in the slot. On a straight acoustic you want the saddle to fit tight in the slot. I use bone for almost everything myself, but I have had LOTS of practice and can carve a saddle to the tight tolerances needed for an AE. I suggest using Micarta or Tusq as its softer and more flexible than bone, making it easier for noobs to work with on an AE guitar.

 

Buy an extra blank or two!

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