Tone Pros Woes

[firemanjerry]

I purchased a Epi Les Paul Prophecy GX on Feb 28, 2011, and love the guitar. I'm starting to have problems with the tone-pros saddles breaking/cutting strings at the bridge. High E and A strings so far. I know there is a way to "work" the saddles to keep this to a minimum but not familiar with the technique and am scared to death, I'll screw it up and make it worse. Nearest guitar tech is 90 miles away. Can anyone help me out with the proper procedure? I'm currently playing the guitar about 8 hours a week and breaking a string once a week on average going to be starting local gigs in a month and hope to have the problem worked out by then. Appreciate any help.

[RaSTuS]

Some pics of the bridge/stoptail area would be helpful, one thing is many have their stoptail screwed all the way down, this creates too sharp an angle for the strings over the bridge, try raising the stoptail to lessen this angle somewhat.

[firemanjerry]

Some pics of the bridge/stoptail area would be helpful, one thing is many have their stoptail screwed all the way down, this creates too sharp an angle for the strings over the bridge, try raising the stoptail to lessen this angle somewhat.

 

Rastus, I haven't messed with the "factory" set up at all in regards to the stoptail, also I ran my fingernail through the saddle 'v' groove and you can really feel the roughness in the notch.

 

I'll send/post pics this weekend, (at work now, DOH!!).

[RaSTuS]

I haven't messed with the "factory" set up at all in regards to the stoptail, also I ran my fingernail through the saddle 'v' groove and you can really feel the roughness in the notch.

The factory set up isn't always that great, and I certainly wouldn't treat it as the definitive set up. If the saddle slot feels rough then I'd recommend using a small round needle file to smooth it out, file it only enough to fix this, don't go overboard, do this for every string/saddle so they are treated equally, the bridge may or may not have to be raised after doing this, depending on how much material you remove.

 

EDIT: another trick is to use an old E or A string and slide it back and forth through the saddle slot, this usually helps to remove any burrs and smooth the slot out.

[stein]

Ideally, The bridge saddles should be treated like the nut when it comes to a final setup. They should be cut just like a nut, so the string rest in the groove in a smooth notch.

 

It actually is pretty easy to do yourself, but not if you don't have the proper files to do it with. But, you could take a little of the edges off from the grooves with some very fine sandpaper. Very fine, at least 300 grit, and a little wet. If the grit is not fine enough, you may cut too much and make scratches as well and make it worse. And, only the INSIDE of the grooves.

[firemanjerry]

The factory set up isn't always that great, and I certainly wouldn't treat it as the definitive set up. If the saddle slot feels rough then I'd recommend using a small round needle file to smooth it out, file it only enough to fix this, don't go overboard, do this for every string/saddle so they are treated equally, the bridge may or may not have to be raised after doing this, depending on how much material you remove.

 

EDIT: another trick is to use an old E or A string and slide it back and forth through the saddle slot, this usually helps to remove any burrs and smooth the slot out.

Thanks Rastus, I'll give the A string a try first (broke one last week), kinda nervous about the needle file thing, done it before with another guitar and it worked for a while then got worse. Ended up going with Graph-Tech Saddles on that one.

[RaSTuS]

 

Thanks Rastus, I'll give the A string a try first (broke one last week), kinda nervous about the needle file thing, done it before with another guitar and it worked for a while then got worse. Ended up going with Graph-Tech Saddles on that one.

You can always try a roller bridge too, they aren't that expensive.

[Whitmore Willy]

Nearest guitar tech is 90 miles away.

kinda nervous about the needle file thing,

How far to the nearest welding supply dealer?

 

 

Torch tip cleaners, less than $5. Use a diameter slightly larger than your string. The sides, (even on the smallest ones) are like round files. Save the needle file for the most outside edges on the groove.

Works for touch up on bridges and your nuts.....nothin' personal.

 

Just an option,

See ya'll next week....Off to go campin'

 

Willy

[RaSTuS]

See ya'll next week....Off to go campin'

Have a good trip Willy.

[firemanjerry]

How far to the nearest welding supply dealer?

 

 

Torch tip cleaners, less than $5. Use a diameter slightly larger than your string. The sides, (even on the smallest ones) are like round files. Save the needle file for the most outside edges on the groove.

Works for touch up on bridges and your nuts.....nothin' personal.

 

Just an option,

See ya'll next week....Off to go campin'

 

Willy

 

About 2 blocks to the welding supply store, thats definately somthing I'm going to get and try, thanks Willy Have fun campin'

 

Jerry

[Dougefresh91]

The torch tip cleaners I bought are not very rough. I used them only once on a Tusq nut, and they were barely shaving anything off. I can't see how they would possibly work on metal. Of course there are different brands out there and whatnot. Maybe I just got a not so great set.