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Does warranty cover pickups?


AndreMaq

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Thanks, I could have sworn I read the whole page, but had missed Exclusion #9:

 

Any factory-installed electronics after a period of one (1) year following the original date of purchase.

 

That seems a bit short. [confused]

I guess I'll use the opportunity to find better sounding replacements [rolleyes]

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Are you sure it's the pickup and not the switch or other electronics connection problem? The contacts on Epiphone switches tend to oxidize if you don't use them for a while and flipping them back and forth a couple times usually cures the problem. Reduced output is not a common failure mode for pickups (usually they work or they don't).

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If your Epi has Epi HBs and is in a real "Studio", it should have had it's PUs replaced from day one anyways.........Just sayin'........

 

[rolleyes] I understand that I'm new here, but I find the tenor of your response somewhat condescending. As brianh stated, the 295's have P-90's and this may sound silly, but I don't subscribe to the knee-jerk reaction that PU's on inexpensive guitars must be changed "from day one".

 

(novel concept warning)

I have this thing I like to do called listening to the instrument. If it sounds good, I leave it alone. That's what we do in "real Studios".......Just sayin'........ :lol:

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Are you sure it's the pickup and not the switch or other electronics connection problem? The contacts on Epiphone switches tend to oxidize if you don't use them for a while and flipping them back and forth a couple times usually cures the problem. Reduced output is not a common failure mode for pickups (usually they work or they don't).

 

Gunner, thanks for the suggestions. That was my initial thought, as well. I've had 2 techs tell me it was most likely the PU. I usually do most of my own guitar work, but I hate getting into hollow bodies to test things :(

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It's a pain but you need to test the PU bypassing *all* the electronics and see how it sounds. If it is OK that means somthing in the signal chain is atenuating the signal. I'd be checking the vol pot.

 

God luck!

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An ES-295 has P90s last time I checked.

 

Ah yes.....My error.........Epi stock P-90s are pretty darn good.....

 

Nice studio you have there Andre......Very nice collection of mics.....

 

I hope you get your PU problem resolved...........................................

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Ah yes.....My error.........Epi stock P-90s are pretty darn good.....

 

Nice studio you have there Andre......Very nice collection of mics.....

 

I hope you get your PU problem resolved...........................................

Thanks! :)

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It's a pain but you need to test the PU bypassing *all* the electronics and see how it sounds. If it is OK that means somthing in the signal chain is atenuating the signal. I'd be checking the vol pot.

 

God luck!

 

Thanks, I'm just wrapping up the wiring for my new live pedalboard, so I'll take a few deep breaths before digging into this. Does anyone know if there are any short cuts to accessing the wiring in the 295. I thought I saw a clip for a harness in the F hole, but it could just be wishful thinking [scared]

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There are inline clips on the PU lines [thumbup]

I switched them and it looks like it's not a PU issue.

The PU selector switch also is making correct contacts.

I'm guessing it's got to be a volume pot issue, broken connection or failure.

Aoresteen, looks like you nailed it =D>

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[rolleyes] I understand that I'm new here, but I find the tenor of your response somewhat condescending. As brianh stated, the 295's have P-90's and this may sound silly, but I don't subscribe to the knee-jerk reaction that PU's on inexpensive guitars must be changed "from day one".

 

(novel concept warning)

I have this thing I like to do called listening to the instrument. If it sounds good, I leave it alone. That's what we do in "real Studios".......Just sayin'........ :lol:

 

Epi PU's do not, and cannot sound as good as high quality PU's made by Duncan, DiMarzio, Gibson, Lollar, Fralin, Rio Grande, etc. Epi PU's simply are not made to compete with these. They don't attempt to. They will not have the level of depth, clarity, and definition. They're made to be functional, to produce an electrical signal. They're not making an big investment in PU tone quality so that they can run with the big boys; they're staying within a certain price range. Gibson is going for first class tone, hence the higher PU prices. Yes, Epi PU's are better than they used to be, and yes, they're 'okay.' But, by upgrading you will get better tones. Over the years, I have owned at least 50 import set-neck Epi's, and I know the limitations of their PU's as well as anyone here, you included. I have replaced and upgraded all of them,and gotten imporved tones. If you play with a lot of distortion and effects thru a solid state amp, you may not hear a lot of difference; but play somewhat cleaner thru a good tube amp, and there's a big difference. You can settle for anything, learn to live with anything. But when you can get a used high quality PU for $30-$40, why not upgrade? Not like it's going to break the bank.

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Epi PU's do not, and cannot sound as good as high quality PU's made by Duncan, DiMarzio, Gibson, Lollar, Fralin, Rio Grande, etc.

 

I don't disagree. I'd say about 40% of my gutars have had PU replacements. My '02 Gibson LP Standard had perhaps the worst sounding bridge PU ever [thumbdn] (now a Duncan JB). My current faves are the Tom Holmes HB's on my Trussart.

 

The 295 is not a main guitar and for this particular application, a P-90, Rockabilly project I was producing, the Epi PU's were close enough. I must say the more I play it the more I'm thinking about better PU's. Any recommendations on stacked or Virtual p-90's? I'm willing to sacrifice a bit of tone for the quiet.

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I don't disagree. I'd say about 40% of my gutars have had PU replacements. My '02 Gibson LP Standard had perhaps the worst sounding bridge PU ever [thumbdn] (now a Duncan JB). My current faves are the Tom Holmes HB's on my Trussart.

 

The 295 is not a main guitar and for this particular application, a P-90, Rockabilly project I was producing, the Epi PU's were close enough. I must say the more I play it the more I'm thinking about better PU's. Any recommendations on stacked or Virtual p-90's? I'm willing to sacrifice a bit of tone for the quiet.

 

Did you try a mag swap in your Gibson LP bridge? That basically creates a 'new' PU. I've got about a dozen Gibson PU's and have swapped the mags in just about every one. Really helped the tones.

 

I have a friend with a 295 (Tom Cat Blake, now residing in France). He's kept his stock, but I'd certainly go with better PU's myself, although Epi P-90's aren't bad. The P-90's I've upgraded have all been to true P-90's, no stacked or virtual (never used them). I haven't heard much favorable about Gibson P-100's, FWIW. For P-90's I have Lollars, Fralins, Duncans, Gibsons, and BG's. All are great. The Lollars are the warmest sounding. I have all the models of Duncan P-90's, but with the SP90-2's and SP90-3's I took out the ceramic magnets and put in alnicos.

 

You can swap magnets in any P-90. They each have two mags (regular HB mags), side-by-side, repelling. And as I've found out, you can put in any two you want and blend EQ's. You can really dial in what you want. P-90's aren't the best thing for studio work. To reduce noise, you can shield them better with metal covers, or put aluminum foil under plastic covers. Also, the hotter the P-90 (ohms) the more noise you'll get, so vintage winds work best for that.

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