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Advice about mods to my Jr


20_Gauge

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Yeah I just took it out of the pack & held(& measured) it against the Chrome bridge & they look to be identical.

 

Not really interested in an adjustable bridge right now, still learning & tryin' to develop my sound. Don't want anything too technical, simple is better in my book. [laugh]

 

Jr: thanks for letting me know that you used this bridge on yours(it looks incredible by the way, awesome job! [thumbup] ) & had to make no modifications putting it in. Yeah mine is a Sunburst, I'm leaving the Sunburst as the main color & trying to bring out the black in the pickguard.

 

Haven't decided on which tuners I wanna get though. Found some black locking tuners on GF that have kinda peaked my interest, are locking tuners any good/worth it?

 

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are locking tuners any good/worth it?

 

They're recommended for guitars with a tremelo arm. The coils normally wound round the capstan can tighten and relax as the string tension changes so a locking tuner helps keep pitch better. That might even help a little bit if you're a heavy bender

 

Apart from anything else though, they just make changing strings a hell of a lot quicker and easier. Push it in, lock it down, and you can bring the string up to pitch quickly without having to wind it round and round the capstan multiple times.

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They're recommended for guitars with a tremelo arm. The coils normally wound round the capstan can tighten and relax as the string tension changes so a locking tuner helps keep pitch better. That might even help a little bit if you're a heavy bender

 

Apart from anything else though, they just make changing strings a hell of a lot quicker and easier. Push it in, lock it down, and you can bring the string up to pitch quickly without having to wind it round and round the capstan multiple times.

 

I don't have tremolos on any of my guitars(yet) & I'm not really @ the point where I bend alot of strings with the stuff I'm playin'.

 

What peaked my interest was the clean look(not all that extra string wrapped 'round the peg) to'em & quicker tuning when I just wanna pick up my guitar & play. I love a "clean" lookin' guitar. My strings last me a good while but making string changes easier would definitely be a plus.

 

For a casual picker like me would they be reasonable or kinda "overkill" on my Jr?

 

If reasonable, would also like to put locking tuners on my EJ & my Dot.

 

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Neither unless you want to relocate your screw holes.

Measure the outside screw holes and the outside of the mounting rings carefully.

 

Gibson's are not the same as Epiphones. Not off by a lot but, they are not the same.

 

Willy

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In dollar terms, although I've not personally made the comparison, I've never had locking tuning pegs on any of my guitars.

 

Since color is your major goal, it may not be a bad idea if the price is similar to go with locking pegs "IF" they fit your guitar without forcing you to close the screw holes and drill new ones.

 

Just please don't be as cavalier as whoever the idiot was who put some really nice Grovers on my equally nice old '50s Harmony archtop, didn't even get them placed all that well - and left screw holes open. Sheesh.

 

Right now my guitars have open gears, covered gears and closed gears. Quality likely covers a theoretical wide range.

 

But if I've had tuning problems, so far it's been due to other factors such as strings, nut, even bridge. That doesn't include some just plain damaged/worn out open gears I've replaced. OTOH, it wouldn't surprise me if I'd someday come across a bad quality piece.

 

m

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I didn't replace the ring on my black Epi since it was already black. I did put a gold ring on my white and gold Epi. Previous owner replaced the pickup and left the ring off. I used this part, which comes in black, gold or chrome:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Hardware,_parts/Electric_guitar:_Covers_plates/Metal_Humbucker_Mounting_Rings_For_Flat_Bodies.html

The mounting holes were a bit off so I filled them in and made new ones. It's not perfect but looks alright. Notice that your Jr body is flat so get the UNtapered ring. The metal is a couple dollars more but is so much nicer than plastic.

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I didn't replace the ring on my black Epi since it was already black. I did put a gold ring on my white and gold Epi. Previous owner replaced the pickup and left the ring off. I used this part, which comes in black, gold or chrome:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Hardware,_parts/Electric_guitar:_Covers_plates/Metal_Humbucker_Mounting_Rings_For_Flat_Bodies.html

The mounting holes were a bit off so I filled them in and made new ones. It's not perfect but looks alright. Notice that your Jr body is flat so get the UNtapered ring. The metal is a couple dollars more but is so much nicer than plastic.

Thanks for the advice, Jr! [thumbup]

 

I noticed that some mounts are flat & somme are tapered, I was gettin' confused, thanks for letting me know what to go with.

 

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Hey y'all.

 

After lookin' at way too many tuners, once my head stopped spinning [laugh], I've narrowed it down to either these Gotoh style tuners(http://guitarfetish.com/3x3-Gotoh-Style-Tuners-Oversized-Buttons-Black-Finish_p_34.html) or these Sperzel style locking tuners(http://guitarfetish.com/Sperzel-Style-Locking-Tuners-3x3-BLACK_p_1173.html). Help me decide please.

 

Each of these tuners have the same style oversized square button as the tuners that came stock & I like that look. The thing I question is that the stock tuners have to screws on the back & these only have one. The one hole on these look to be in the same position as the bottom hole on the stock tuners. The locking tuners need a 10mm peg hole, so I think I might take out one of my stock tuners to measure the hole.

 

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The thing I question is that the stock tuners have to screws on the back & these only have one.

 

If the old tuner hole is near but not quite...fill with Elmer dipped tooth pick. Then re-drill for new tuner.

On holes that are left....fill with crayon wax and polish over.

 

If you have economy tuners the holes are likely 8mm.

The ones you are looking at are probably 10mm.

 

Not a big deal.

Read this:

http://forum.gibson.com/index.php?/topic/76854-beater-guitar-part-2/

 

Willy

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If the old tuner hole is near but not quite...fill with Elmer dipped tooth pick. Then re-drill for new tuner.

On holes that are left....fill with crayon wax and polish over.

 

If you have economy tuners the holes are likely 8mm.

The ones you are looking at are probably 10mm.

 

Not a big deal.

Read this:

http://forum.gibson.com/index.php?/topic/76854-beater-guitar-part-2/

 

Willy

 

Yeah, the Sperzels say they are 10mm.

Don't really want(or would feel confident) to hafta re-drill any holes on my Jr. Might just order the Gotohs & try 1 & if it doesn't fit, send'em back & just leave the stock Chrome tuners on for now.

 

P.S.- Great informative thread. Well done, Willy! [thumbup]

 

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http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Electric_Guitar_Bridges/Schaller_Bridge_Tailpiece.html?read=reviews#reviews

 

Here's what i did to LP Jr bridge.

You'll be very happy with this tailpiece.

 

Very cool bridge Epi, bet it looks good but I'm lookin' for a black bridge. I already ordered the black wraparound bridge I found on GF. Waitin' 'til I get a black p'up mount & some new strings, gonna put them both one @ the same time.

 

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Yeah, the Sperzels say they are 10mm.

Don't really want(or would feel confident) to hafta re-drill any holes on my Jr. Might just order the Gotohs & try 1 & if it doesn't fit, send'em back & just leave the stock Chrome tuners on for now.

 

P.S.- Great informative thread. Well done, Willy! [thumbup]

 

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Willy knows the way. I followed his notes and all is well. Routing the tuner holes had me puzzled for a while, since I was afraid of ruining the wood with a drill. But I found this

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Reamers/Rear_Peghole_Reamer.html

I did some by hand and then put it in my drill and went real slow.

Toothpicks, glue and black crayon to finish it off.

Sounds like the extra screw is inherent in the low end tuners. At least on these guitars.

Don't be a-feered, just follow the instructions.

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Willy knows the way. I followed his notes and all is well. Routing the tuner holes had me puzzled for a while, since I was afraid of ruining the wood with a drill. But I found this

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Reamers/Rear_Peghole_Reamer.html

I did some by hand and then put it in my drill and went real slow.

Toothpicks, glue and black crayon to finish it off.

Sounds like the extra screw is inherent in the low end tuners. At least on these guitars.

Don't be a-feered, just follow the instructions.

 

Cool.

 

Could I do thisby hand w/o the drill? Something 'bout takin' a drill to it is got me leery, don't trust myself with a drill?

 

So this reamer just widens out the bottom? looks like it has a built in stop, so it doesn't go all the way though. If in fact it does, I like that.

 

If I could do this w/o power tools w/ just this reamer(& a toothpick, glue & black crayon) that is specifically for the tunners I want(eliminating the guess work), I might give it a try.

 

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You can do it by hand but you'll have some massive blisters, as I did. I wrapped the bit with duct tape down to the place where I need it to stop then twisted by hand. It's ok to do a couple of them or just get them started but the pain will probably get you over your fear of the drill. Get your tuners first to see if you need a 10mm hole all the way through, just a partial or possibly no drilling at all. All of these options are done all the time by regular ol' folks.

What I learned; sometimes you should just go ahead and buy the proper, specialized tool (this rear peg reamer) and get it done.

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You can do it by hand but you'll have some massive blisters, as I did. I wrapped the bit with duct tape down to the place where I need it to stop then twisted by hand. It's ok to do a couple of them or just get them started but the pain will probably get you over your fear of the drill. Get your tuners first to see if you need a 10mm hole all the way through, just a partial or possibly no drilling at all. All of these options are done all the time by regular ol' folks.

What I learned; sometimes you should just go ahead and by the proper, specialized tool (this rear peg reamer) and get it done.

 

Ok thanks for the info, Jr.

 

I agree, best to buy the proper tool, 'specially when it's a specialized tool like this, for a job 'stead tryin' to Mcgyver somethin' to work. [laugh]

 

My project has been kinda put on hold, my extra $$ for this month went to truck insurance & some badly needed new tires. Will continue it next month & will get them black Gotoh tuners first to assess if that reamer is needed to widen the hole, if it is I'll order it.

 

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Hey guys, needs some more advice.

 

Already planning out the next phase of my "Black Out" project: ordering the stuff to replace the p'up mount. Is it very difficult/invasive to replace the Humbucker p'up height screws?

Talked to my Sweetwater tech this afternoon & he advised to just leave in the stock ones, they're tiny & kinda goldish so they wouldn't look to bad against against black hardware.

 

I was just wondering 'cause I found some black p'up height screws on stew-mac.

 

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It's just a screw which goes into the mounting ring, through a spring, and then into a metal tab on the pickup. Nothing to it.

 

Ok cool Thanks for the answer, mcgruff. [thumbup]

 

Will go ahead & order 2 black height screws when I order my mounting ring.

 

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Just wondering if it's possible to replace the p'up mounting ring w/o removing the strings? Maybe by just loosening'em?

 

The strings on my Jr are in pretty good shape, would like to change out the ring soon but would hate to throw away fairly new strings. Gonna wait 'til my strings wear a little to change'em & swap out the bridge & tuners but would like to swap out, if possible, the ring.

 

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With a bridge and stopbar you can slacken strings enough to do what you want but not sure about a wraparound bridge. You might have to take the strings all the way off - but you can always put them back on again. Handle the unwound strings carefully to avoid stressing them any more than you have to.

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Will do, Joe. Sounds like fun.

 

Don't have the new ring but will take a closer look at it tomorrow.

 

Just watched a youtube vid of this process on a Gibson LP & he went through the back panel & undone the wires first & then completely lifted out the p'up(his was covered p'ups not open like mine, don't know if that matters), will I need to disconnect the wires or will I be able to just lift it out enough to undo the height screws?

 

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