Dub-T-123
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Posts posted by Dub-T-123
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On 12/23/2023 at 2:19 AM, Pinch said:
Yeah, and a company giving away DAMAGED goods for, what, PR reasons? 🤔
OP is fubar. He went directly from getting scammed to going to a random site and punching in his full name any random place he could.
I’m sure if he had to enter his credit card info to post here he would have
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1 hour ago, PrairieDog said:
I have a little different question on this timely topic. I just picked up a used, super cheapo (house brand) acoustic guitar on a lark (Okay, it was green, it’s the holidays, and looks festive propped up against the tree). Still, after the 89 bucks worth of fun is expended, since it plays surprisingly okay, we are thinking about passing it on to our niece. At 14, “shiny new” is more important than “authentic” relic-ing (give her a few years). It has a couple of 1 inch deeper scratches in the finish, but not into the wood. So in this case a good buffing won’t hurt anything. Any recommendations what to try to even them out? I’m sure it has a poly finish.
Either I’m reading this incorrectly or you have a wildly incorrect understanding of what an inch is
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If you didn’t tell me I’d think that’s original in super clean condition. Looks really good. Nice work
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Thats a really lice looking Les Paul. Looks like some beautiful cabinetry behind it too
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1 hour ago, havasasabata said:
Use professional polishing compounds designed for musical instruments to achieve optimal results.
This is such a strange use of AI
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lol that’s not how it works you gotta thwap it with keys and pop it in the freezer and whatnot
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My R9 is pretty damn excellent in every way but I don’t like relics and try to keep my stuff in good shape. I’m not a touring superstar or anything so my stuff will never look like a “relic”
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2 minutes ago, Sgt. Pepper said:
So you have a relic'ed guitar that was relic'ed the real way and you want it back to looking pristine.
Hear that Gibson - Stop The Relic'ing.
I’m sure they’ve heard quite a bit of that but the sound of $10K per Les Paul must have stolen their attention
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1 hour ago, Rabs said:
By the way.. Did your IR-2 come yet? If so, whats the verdict?
No I preordered and they haven’t shipped yet. I’ll post a thread when I get it and play around with it a bit
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I don’t even want to see it lol. I’m sure it’s amazing and over $500
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Yellow is my favorite color for a strat. My dad used to have an old 80s or 90s strat in “graffiti yellow” and I loved the way it looked.
I ordered this body from warmoth and had it and a neck finished by a forum member from here who I haven’t seen in a long time. It has a warmoth neck but I ended up putting this neck from an old American deluxe strat on it
I get bonus tone points from my iconic wiring under the hood
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Classic. My first ever pedal was a black Russian Big Muff. I think it cost $40 when new and now they go for about $200 on average. I also have a “tall font” green Russian Muff which is really worth a lot of money now
at your gig I would recommend setting it up to where the big muff is louder than “unity gain”. It sounds best when it’s goosing an already hot tube amp, but that will also keep you from disappearing with the scooped mids -
Look how square and sharp the corners are. Looks like they got about 80% of the way there and called it a day
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On 12/14/2023 at 8:24 AM, Larsongs said:
One thing that hasn’t been mentioned is there are different quality Capacitors.. Cheap one that go from Bass to Treble from O to 1 & stays there all the way to 10. There are better Capacitors that do a beautiful job gradually roll up from Bass to Treble in small gradual changes from 0 to 10.. The later are usually found on high end Gibsons..
Is 50’s Wiring necessary? Who knows? If so, why did Gibson change it?
Here is a pretty good video of 50’s wiring..
Oh boy…
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I don’t think Gibson was doing the custom art historic in 1990 so if the first digit in the serial is 0 then it’s probably a 2000
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2 hours ago, ksdaddy said:
64.
2 hours ago, rct said:64
will you still need me will you still feed me-
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Ok that’s a good description to work from. Basically when you have an intermittent problem which appears and disappears with physical pressure like that it’s usually a dry or broken solder joint.
Judging by multiple functions of the foot switch it’s a relay operated guy so it may not necessarily be a solder joint directly related to the foot switch itself
a product like this is basically all made by machines on the PCB itself and then probably some humans wired up the actual connections to the jacks or possibly daughter boards etc.
any faulty connection to input/output jacks or power jack are likely to cut the entire signal on a pedal like this. This also happens to be a part of the production process particularly susceptible to error generally speaking so I’d start looking at solder joints in those areas
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Without looking up the serial number it looks like an early “reissue” but I wouldn’t suggest that being “early” is desirable in this case. The specs are like what you’d get on a USA Jr.
This is not the same as the guitar in your link, which is built with a much higher degree of historical accuracy, one piece body, correct tuners and logos and shapes etc.
This example has also had a headstock repair and the pickup cavity must have been routed to accept that humbucker. It might be a really great guitar, someone apparently really liked it. I would only buy it for CHEAP but who knows that could be a really amazing guitar
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I have built and repaired lots of pedals. The Digitech Drop is going to have “no user serviceable parts” inside. A grain of rice is going to look big compared to most of the components (which are surface mounted)
What is going wrong with the pedal? Did you try the pedal by itself? Ie not connected to other pedals but just guitar > drop > amp? Are you sure you’re using the right power supply and the input/outputs are connected the right way around?
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That’s pretty cool! Great recommendation for sure. I basically have an embarrassment of riches when it comes to recording gear so I’d always opt to use that. Never been an e drum or backing track user either and I specifically want to avoid anything with digital screens/menus.
I guess the stripped down features of this new pedal are a big part of the appeal for me. I can mount this on a little pedalboard next to the couch and keep it tidy and hooked up all the time. If it doesn’t look tidy I’m going to be inclined to set up/tear down every session. I’ve found that any hindrance no matter how small can take away lots of play time. If I have to remove a guitar from its case vs just pulling one off of the rack, that guitar could sit in its case for years
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I really can’t even use a Champ at home without feeling inconsiderate to my neighbors. This is going to sound GREAT compared to a loud amp set as quiet as it will go.
In my case the convenience of using this is a massive selling point. Finally I can just plug in and play without hooking up a laptop and interface and then deal with a bunch of menus and settings. My other alternative was driving half an hour to my ratty little rehearsal space that cost like $500 a month. I could get all the pants flapping tone I want over there but theres so many downsides to that
Is this the tone that’s gonna make me a big famous rockstar? Probably not. This is like come home from work grab a beer take a bong toke and chill on the couch with the Les Paul a while.
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If you don’t love Jack Bruce you’re just wrong.
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It seems like a great deal. I’m a pedal nerd and I’ve been paying close attention to this particular segment of the market and this is the most exciting thing I’ve seen come out in a long time
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Murph I took my truck in for an oil change yesterday and there was a guy about my age or younger who apparently had his Mercedes towed there with a flat tire. The mechanic installed the spare and told him the replacement would arrive tomorrow.
imagine not knowing how to install a spare tire. Holy **** I feel old. It takes about 3 minutes with the emergency kit
Bribing Santa
in The Gibson Lounge
Posted
I’m not a motorcycle guy at all but that is just cool looking