Neck Radius education needed

[NHTom]

Ok, trying to expand my knowledge here..........

 

I always hear people discuss 50's, 60's, etc. I understand what it is, but don't know how to relate the different ones to how they feel in my hand......

 

 

I have a 1985 Explorer and a 1997 Studio. Love the feel of both, but they do seem a bit different.

 

I was wondering if anyone could put those necks in the "50's, 60's, etc" terms to help me match the correct terminology to how they feel.

 

 

Thanks,

 

NHTom

[Rabs]

Well simply, a 50s neck is rounder and deeper.. a 60s neck is slimmer and tapered (so is wider at the low E end and thinner at the high E).. but to be honest the descriptions of the neck arnt that accurate, ive played some guitars that are meant to have a 50s neck that felt more like a 60s and each one is individual in a way as they are finished by hand. Oh yes, also you have the asymmetrical necks which are like 60s necks but even more tapered the idea being that it fits the curve of your hand more (used on the 2008 Standard (which I have) and a few others).

 

As for the fretboard radius. That refers to the rounding of the board so its not actually flat but has a slight curve to it.. Most Gibsons have a 12" radius but a lot of the new ones come with whats called a compound radius where it starts of curved at the headstock end and then gets flatter at the body end (so its good for chords and then good for soloing at the high end). The way a radius is worked out is if you made a circle of the curve of the radius, the whole circle is what they measure it by. So a lower radius means its more curved.

 

You also have different shaped necks.. Gibsons are a D or C shape but you have other guitars that have a V profile..

 

Oh sod it.. pictures say more than my words ever could :)

 

[NHTom]

Thanks!!!

 

Great info.

 

Now I just have to figure out what mine are so I can know what to look for in the future.

 

NHTom

[Rabs]

Thanks!!!

 

Great info.

 

Now I just have to figure out what mine are so I can know what to look for in the future.

 

NHTom

Explorer neck is probably like this one

http://www2.gibson.com/Products/Electric-Guitars/Explorer/Gibson-USA/Explorer/Features.aspx

The Explorer Neck Profile

No guitar neck profiles are more distinguishable than the neck profiles employed on the Gibson models of today. The more traditional '50s neck profile is the thicker, more rounded contour, emulating the neck shapes of Gibson's iconic models of the late 1950s. The '60s neck profile is considered the more modern, slim-tapered contour most commonly associated with the Gibson models of the early 1960s. The neck on Gibson's Explorer has the best of both worlds—it is a hybrid between the '50s rounded contour and the '60s slim-taper profile. As with all Gibson necks, it is machined in Gibson's rough mill using wood shapers to make the initial cuts. Once the fingerboard gets glued on, the rest—including the final sanding—is done by hand. That means there are no two necks with the exact same dimensions. So while it still has the basic characteristics of its respective profile, each neck will be slightly different, with a distinct but traditional feel

 

And the Studio is probably a 50s... that's a probably mind you. :)

[NHTom]

I think you are right.

 

My explorer does feel a little bit thinner. It also seems a bit wider at the upper frets across the board.

 

I really like both, but am glad to know. I always see the profile mentioned in sales listings so wanted to figure it out.

 

I appreciate the info.

 

NHTom

[Rabs]

I think you are right.

 

My explorer does feel a little bit thinner. It also seems a bit wider at the upper frets across the board.

 

I really like both, but am glad to know. I always see the profile mentioned in sales listings so wanted to figure it out.

 

I appreciate the info.

 

NHTom

No worries man.. that's what us guitar nerds are here for.. to share information :)

[jdgm]

Thankyou Rabs I saved those diagrams, very useful.

 

How about an update on the builds? Are you intending to surprise us all?

[surfpup]

Excellent post Rabs! I saved the images for future reference.

[Rabs]

Thankyou Rabs I saved those diagrams, very useful.

 

How about an update on the builds? Are you intending to surprise us all?

Hey man.. no worries for the diagrams and thanks for asking about the builds...

 

Basically I have been doing a top secret job for someone the last month or so, before that if you remember my arm was screwed... However that is all healed now, the job I just did is curing so you will all see that in a few weeks.. I literally finished Thursday and have just had a few days off (was really hard working in a heatwave).. Back to my builds tomorrow so yes updates VERY soon :)

[milod]

All kidding aside, I think the neck shape is only part of the game in terms of how a neck feels.

 

Combine neck shape and fingerboard radius with scale length and something of a "balance point" on the instrument - with one's own physical geometry before you really start to think what may best play with your own technique. I'm convinced, too, that since one may change some of one's technique at various times in a long pickin' career, one's perception of "a comfortable guitar" may also change.

 

My favorite example is why three differently shaped guitars having the same scale and similar neck shapes and fingerboard radius can play quite differently at the root positions - simply because the guitar "balance point" is different. E.g., an SG type, an LP or Fender type, a semihollow and a full hollow archtop. That's just electrics. Now figure a parlor guitar vs a jumbo. The balance will be quite different and that changes one's "physical geometry" in terms of addressing the guitar.

 

One advantage we have with "our" instrument is that it is so incredibly variable in size and shape. Some of the best as well as some of the lesser expensive have 24-inch scale and in electrics as well as acoustic steel strings, some of the best and some of the lesser expensive may have a 25 1/2 radius.

 

I think one reason my own preferences have to do with an average sorta body size and shape for a male, but with relatively short arms and both technique and "hold" of a guitar influenced by starting on a classical. I find the SG quite comfortable, the LP uncomfortable and most Fenders virtually unplayable; a 16-inch lower bout on a 24 3/4 scale and "flat" fingerboard quite ideal for an archtop, flattop and - Hmmmm a classical guitar.

 

I'd say the guitar geometry is quite important, but is especially important to one's technique with consideration of the player's personal physical geometry and playing style.

 

m