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reversing a shaved bridge...?


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My  LG2 got a bit of a bridge shave to lower the action and could probably use a neck reset at some point soon.   Have not been able to source a replacement bridge (the small rectangle one from early 50s LG2s so options are to have a new one fabricated or find a way to recycle.

Is it reasonable to remove the bridge and install a spacer on the bottom?  probably needs 0.01" or a shade more.   I'd use rosewood to match the bridge.  There is still enough slot to hold a moderately high saddle.  This seems like a pretty/obvious  easy fix, but I've not seen anyone ever chat about it, so maybe I'm missing something.  Also, does a neck reset typically change the geometry enough that you need to relocate the saddle? Or can shaping the saddle typically get you intonated.  

Thanks for any ideas / inputs.

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I agree on either method. I've had a few BRW replacements made for vintage guitars that had shaved down bridges. Some members are more purist and prefer to rebuild the the original which is commendable and my luthier offered to do that.  If I had a vintage guitar in great condition, I would also go that route. I always save the original in case someone wants to go that route in the future.

Here's one for a '42 J45 and a '42 LG1

42 J45Bridges

 

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Thanks for the feedback.  In my original note I said  need to raise the bridge/saddle combo by .01".  The correct amount is actually  .1" (2.5mm) .  As it has been shaved down, I don't think the current bridge slot is deep enough to hold a saddle that  much taller.  That's why I'm thinking to raise the whole bridge.  Also looking to do this myself and seems like a lot less room for error  to add on the bottom than make a whole new bridge, locate the holes, etc.  Its a nice guitar, but a refinish is underway so its never going to be super valuable.    The bridge assembly is  a glued together sandwich of bridge, top and bridge plate, so will one more glue joint make that big a difference?  One thing on my mind  is that the wings of the rebuilt bridge would be thicker (from 0.1" to about 0.16")  which may change a the way it shakes the top a little bit.   That might actually help?   I also figure a pic can help.

The height of the bridge is right  about 0.2" now and total height of strings over the soundboard is under .4".  I'd like to get the string up to .5"  and planning to do that by thickening the whole bridge by .065 and running the  saddle .035 higher.

IMG_6921 (1).JPG

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Are you saying the bridge plate actually makes contact with the underside of your bridge, or are you referring to the bottom layer of the bridge? I'm not sure you'll do anything noticeable to your tone with that minimal a change, as the LG2s are sturdy beasts, but you might increase the fragility of the setup.

No offense to my fellow geniuses here, but if you've ever noodled around on the UMGF, you know that many questions like this are quickly jumped on by generous high end vintage luthiers. I'd recommend checking it out.

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