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Screw-on Pickguards B45-12


lcjones

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I just bought a Gibson B45-12.  The serial number, as I can make it out, is 803128 which I assume is either a 1966 or a 1969 by the charts I have found. It's a cherry-burst model. I can find no model number on the guitar. There is a "G" printed on the neck block inside. On the underside of the top , near the sound hole, the numbers 48005, which has a strike-through in pen ink, and then the number 4803(x) with the last digit covered by bracing tape.

It has a screw-on pick guard. Which I though odd. Though, after some google time found at least one photo of a 1966 B45-12N also with a screw-on pick guard.  I have not seen a screw-on guard on any year of  the B45-12 other that the 1966. 

My question is.... was this a Gibson "lets try this and see what happens" thing? Or was is a design decision that was rescinded at a later date?

I'm just curious as to the Wherefore & Why a screw-on pick guard. 


Gibson-B45-12-undertop.jpg.142a1271a0ebb6d6579d700ba26c865e.jpg

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Hi folks,

Thanks ksdaddy for that photo. I appreciate that.

Sgt. Pepper,  "crossed out number is a keeper"? Is there some significance?  In my curiosity and as men are want to do, I took the screws out to have a look see. Honestly it felt like it was glued down. But I didn't force anything and promptly returned the screws.

Here she is. She needs TLC to be sure. Rosewood saddle is hosed. Ordered one today. No cracks or splits on top or back. But, she does have a bit of a sunken chest. Hence pretty high action. Hence a neck reset (but....maybe not).  And in the process of sinking it cracked a brace. I'm going to try a procedure to restore the top to it's original position. We'll see.

Anyway, here she is,

Gibson-1966-B45-12_at_home1.jpg

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I have owned a square shoulder '63 B45-12 and still have a 1961 slope shoulder version.

Gibson though was constantly putzing around with the B45-12.  While screwing on pickguards was just a matter of how things were being done in any given year, most of the changes had to do with solving an engineering issue the biggest of which was how to keep guitars from being returned under warranty.  They were always, as example, going back and forth between pin bridges and tailpiece/floating bridge setups.  But the biggest change occurred in 1965 when they beefed up the structure by adding sister braces to the lower legs of the X brace.  Oddly one of the quick ways to tell whether the guitar has the light or heavy bracing is the split diamond on the headstock.  Those on early instruments have rounded edges while guitars from 1965 on have sharp edges.

By the way LMI sells a bone saddle for ADJ bridge Gibsons.  

 

Edited by zombywoof
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Zombywoof,

Thank you for that information. Yep. This one has the sharp pointed edges in the headstock diamond. I've ordered a rosewood replacement saddle from the Philly guys. Thought I'd start there as that is what is on it. Might try a bone saddle later on. I  have other 12 strings that carry a bright tone. So I'm hoping the rosewood saddle gets me a more earthy tone like my J50.

Again, appreciate the info.

 

 

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On 7/20/2023 at 12:44 PM, Sgt. Pepper said:

The crossed out number is a keeper. 

I guess it has screws for the ease of changing it? Just a theory.

Chief,

In the 60-odd years that I've owned and played various guitars, exactly one, my 1974 D-28, needed a pickguard replaced, so I'm at a loss to understand the advantage to make changing pickguards easier by using screws rather than adhesives. 

RBSinTo

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1 minute ago, RBSinTo said:

Chief,

In the 60-odd years that I've owned and played various guitars, exactly one, my 1974 D-28, needed a pickguard replaced, so I'm at a loss to understand the advantage to make changing pickguards easier by using screws rather than adhesives. 

RBSinTo

Maybe screws were cheaper? Another theory.

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19 hours ago, lcjones said:

Zombywoof,

Thank you for that information. Yep. This one has the sharp pointed edges in the headstock diamond. I've ordered a rosewood replacement saddle from the Philly guys. Thought I'd start there as that is what is on it. Might try a bone saddle later on. I  have other 12 strings that carry a bright tone. So I'm hoping the rosewood saddle gets me a more earthy tone like my J50.

Again, appreciate the info.

 

 

I tried the bone saddle and went back to the rosewood.  By the way, Gibson made two versions of the wood saddle.  The earliest had a slot/groove cut in the bottom and the metal plate shaped to fit into it.  Later versions just went with a flat bottom saddle.  I would guess this was a cost cutting measure.

My take on it though is Gibson initially did not have a clue as to how to build a 12 string guitar.  The only U.S. company even offering them at the time was Harmony.  So, they simply slapped a wide neck and humongous headstock on a guitar braced for six strings.  While it was great for sound it was not the best recipe for survival and they ran into all kinds of warranty issues with tops deforming or guitars literally twisting themselves apart.  So, tuning down 1 to 1 1/2 steps is a way of life with these guitars.  I also play mine as a 9 string doubling up on the D, G and high E so a nod to Big Joe Williams. 

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