djroge1 Posted October 12, 2008 Posted October 12, 2008 I've really needed to replace the bridge on my Gibbby '78 Les Paul for a long time now - at least the saddles need replacing. Both the bridge and the tail piece only have the very beginning signs of pitting - you have to look pretty close to see it. but the screws used to adjust the saddles are pitted/rusted. Would you recommend staying with stock Gibsons? There is a lot on this guitar that is not stock (pickups, pots, knobs etc...) and the parts are long gone. Do you recommend another brand - which one? Would you change the tail piece too? Why or why not?
snookelputz Posted October 13, 2008 Posted October 13, 2008 You got 30 years out of the OEM gear. Any bets you'd get another 30 with aftermarket stuff? But since its no longer pristine anyway, I've never quite worked up the nerve to try a light weight bridge and stoptail. I hear great things, but somehow I always buy another boat anchor. Is this normal, or symptomatic of some rare disease like GAS?
TWANG Posted October 13, 2008 Posted October 13, 2008 the cheapest replacements have the most porous metals.. the rest are fine. If the tail isn't pitted.. leave it.. they use good stuff to start with. saddles and screws are available, but really for what they cost alone you may as well get the whole bridge. www.wdmusic.com has a few that fit gibsons. including tonepros locking..in all colors. from what I hear, you should probably just use a little chrome polish, then wax it.. and replace the screws, using a little graphite, wd40, pencil lead for lubing them.. it's important to lube new screws and thread them through all the way so you don't grind any small burrs in the threads into a problem.. and it keeps them from binding and stops rust if you keep them very lightly moist, too. TWANG
Steven Lister Posted October 13, 2008 Posted October 13, 2008 Would you recommend staying with stock Gibsons? There is a lot on this guitar that is not stock (pickups' date=' pots, knobs etc...) and the parts are long gone. Do you recommend another brand - which one? Would you change the tail piece too? Why or why not?[/quote'] Have you read the poll comments thread up now on stock vs. locking T.O.M hardware? Maybe it will help you decide. Given my results with a major aftermarket locking style bridge and tailpiece (at least 4 available, but all essentially do the same thing as far as I can tell) of locking bridge/tailpiece, I recommend both. My stock hardware (2003 EPI Elite LP) was still pristine -- so it's stored away. I was seeking improved sustain and easier string changes and I'm satisfied with the return on my $130 investment on both counts. Hit every BLUE NOTE baaaby..., I'm going to play on:-"
tflanster Posted October 13, 2008 Posted October 13, 2008 www.stewmac.com sells bridges for every electric - well, every "normal" electric. And their free 800 number tech info is invaluable. I bought a Gotoh T.O.M. to replace the OEM bridge on an Ibanez AF75 (floating bridge). It dropped right in. Same for all T.O.M's they sell. I have nothing invested with StewMac, nor do I buy a lot of stuff from them. Just info. No doubt there are others. Its just that I had good experiences with them. I found the Gotoh to be much superior to the original, cheap bridge on the AF. Better construction, easier adjustment for tuning harmonics, and best of all - it fit.
Whitmore Willy Posted October 13, 2008 Posted October 13, 2008 Djr, Go new...go good...The guitar deserves it. (and so do you) Since it's already been modded...make it the best you can. I got one from around the same year. Which model you got?.....How is the intonation? Just asking because it has alot to do with the type of bridge I would put on it. (or mod) Jc, Did you get my PM?
djroge1 Posted October 13, 2008 Author Posted October 13, 2008 Djr' date=' Go new...go good...The guitar deserves it. (and so do you) Since it's already been modded...make it the best you can. I got one from around the same year. Which model you got?.....How is the intonation? Just asking because it has alot to do with the type of bridge I would put on it. (or mod) Jc, Did you get my PM? [/quote'] Yeah I want to make it the best I can. I've just never changed the bridge/tail so I thought I'd get the counsel of others. Mine is a standard and the intonation is great and always has been. No PM's here?
Whitmore Willy Posted October 13, 2008 Posted October 13, 2008 Djr, That considered, I would be looking for the best bridge I could find. I would like to be of more help but it would only be another opinion. I got lucky and found a brand new (30 years old) Schecter bridge and put it on my "76". Added a TP-6 tail piece and I am in heaven. I don't know that some of the new stuff out there isn't as good or better. (just make sure it's Gibby or Gibby spec before you fork out the bucks)
tflanster Posted October 13, 2008 Posted October 13, 2008 Oh fa crine out loud guys . . . are there any metallurgist's here? What do you want the perfect bridge to be made of - super-idium? Doe's anyone know the metal composition of bridges? Brass, Stainless, Copper, titanium, iridium, crapolium? What's the best bridge? The one that's the least expensive. If it goes bad, change it . . . how much could it cost - twenty bucks? Geez!
Whitmore Willy Posted October 13, 2008 Posted October 13, 2008 Tf, Valid point. Oh fa crine out loud guys . . . lol This is what I have often remarked on....It is a matter of common sense and "taste".
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