antwhi2001 Posted March 6, 2010 Author Share Posted March 6, 2010 It gets curiouser and curiouser.... So, a 3-piece body. But no mahogany in sight....surely this is way too pale to be mahogany. I'm going to leave it natural, just give it a couple of light coats of clear poly. But I need to swap the fretboard first...that's next weekends' job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevie Nazarenie Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 i'm none the wiser... have you thought about tru oil. i can say it brings out a good colour on mahogany. my old sg looks pretty good. i used no pore filler and you can put as little or as much as you want, really. you rub it down with 0000 steel wool. a few coats can seal it. has anyone here colourized tru oil? i may try that in the future. what's the fretboard swap for? anyway keep at it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
custombuiltguitars Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 is that finish on the left side of the neck joint picture? I hope it's that and not a sloppy neck shim. I can't tell for sure from the pic. Looks alot like soft maple. But again, hard to tell from just pics. It's too bad. You buy a Les Paul, you just expect mahogony. I'd be painting it black if it were mine. Not that natural won't look good....but not a lot of interesting gain there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
custombuiltguitars Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 i'm none the wiser... have you thought about tru oil. i can say it brings out a good colour on mahogany. this guitar clearly isn't mahogony.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AS90 Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 Looks like Alder to me. How about an 'all gold' finish? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevie Nazarenie Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 i'm thinking fake! my fake body was basswood though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
custombuiltguitars Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 i'm thinking fake! agreed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antwhi2001 Posted March 6, 2010 Author Share Posted March 6, 2010 It is finish rather than a shim. I'm swapping the fretboard because of badly worn frets and the fact that I have a spare brand new complete fretboard, removed from an EE standard plus with a neck break. It could be basswood, I didn't think of that. I doubt that it's a fake, I've never seen or heard of a fake Epi as old as this. I haven't been able to find any comments on these "F" series instruments from Korea, so I assume there's not many of them around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
custombuiltguitars Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 that isn't basswood Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevie Nazarenie Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 how heavy is it? it's far more stripey than my basswood one. although it is stuck together like mine. here are some body wood descriptions at warmoth... http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Bodies/Options/BodyWoodOptions.aspx i would be happy with a maple one though! iwantone of those! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
animalfarm Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 I'm going to leave it natural' date=' just give it a couple of light coats of clear poly. But I need to swap the fretboard first...that's next weekends' job. [/quote'] I definitely like the natural wood look, will make it unique! I refinished a neck for a 1970's Hondo II project, used a magical substance called MinWax TUNG OIL... just applied coat after coat with foam brush, 24 hr cure, light 0000 steel wool "sand", wipe off, then next coat. The MORE coats I applied, the SHINIER it became. TOTALLY sold me on TUNG OIL. Always wanted to do entire git with it since then... You can get the idea with the pix. Maunufacturer's instructions mention "buffing" the finish - NEVER did, just coated, let dry, then again.... http://www.minwax.com/products/specialty_products/tung_oil_finish.html EDIT: Thinking back, I DID use a medium color stain PRIOR to applying tung oil - the oil is a LIGHTER color naturally. AKA "Chinese Waterproofing, it dries quite smooth - I had no problem with playability of neck, eventually sold git to another vintage git freak like me! Neck without anything: A few coats of Tung Oil: MORE Tung Oil: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AS90 Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 It's not a fake. Lots of older Epis are made of cheap wood. My G400 is alder and maple! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hungrycat Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 It's not a fake. Lots of older Epis are made of cheap wood. My G400 is alder and maple! Those aren't BAD woods. I prefer the sound of Alder to Ash, for instance. Just not a whole lot of interesting grain to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
custombuiltguitars Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 Those aren't BAD woods. I prefer the sound of Alder to Ash' date=' for instance. Just not a whole lot of interesting grain to it. [/quote'] no not bad woods at all. But not what one expects from a Les Paul from Epiphone. From some knockoff in Indonesia, sure..... But I at least expect an Epiphone Paul to be Mahogony. Still, good woods, Good sound. Just won't sound like a Mahogony Paul..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hungrycat Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 Still' date=' good woods, Good sound. Just won't sound like a Mahogony Paul.....[/quote'] Agreed. I would actually prefer the necks to be maple, so they don't snap like a twigs when any sort of stress is put on the headstocks. (At least Norlin got that right. Mahogany is just too soft for necks IMHO. Got a broken LPC in the shop right now, but I digress... ) My dream LP would be a Goldtop with a Maple neck. Sweetwater has one of the piezo LPs in a Goldtop finsih with a Maple neck, but alas! 'Tis over 3 grand!!! Anyways... back to the guitar in question: I just had the thought that it COULD be made of one of the various species of Asian "Mahoganies." Not real Mahogany per se, but trees from the same family. I know some of those woods can be very light in color. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
custombuiltguitars Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 mahogony necks need to be 2 or 3 piece to be strong enough. 1 piece as you said, snaps off way too easy. It's all in the ears. I prefer the sound of a hog neck, but the strength of maple. 6 inline I always do maple. 3 on 3 I build the neck out of mahogony. Easier to carve, and I prefer the sound. But it is always a multi piece neck for strength. The pics to me anyway show a closed grain wood. Even the Asian Mahogony is open grain wood. It still looks like mahogony, just lighter in color. The guitar shown appears to be a soft maple or Alder. Hard to tell from the pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhead Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 Agreed. I would actually prefer the necks to be maple' date=' so they don't snap like a twigs when any sort of stress is put on the headstocks. (At least Norlin got that right. Mahogany is just too soft for necks IMHO. Got a broken LPC in the shop right now, but I digress... ) My dream LP would be a Goldtop with a Maple neck. Sweetwater has one of the piezo LPs in a Goldtop finsih with a Maple neck, but alas! 'Tis over 3 grand!!! [/quote'] I agree, mahogany is a softer wood, but gives a "deeper" tone, and not as strong as maple. I had an older Gibson LP Custom that had a 3 pc maple neck, it was strong and kinda had a brighter tone than an all mahogany axe has. MY opinion anyway. But my other guitars with mahogany necks have held up good, have to treat them kindly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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