Something "strange" happend to my Epi last week

[MrSaint]

Hi

 

Well ok, I was playing and noticed that the nut supposed to secure the guitar jack, was a bit loose.

So I gently tried to tighten it. Then I connected the guitar cable, and fired up the amp - big mistake..

The noise coming from the amp was that sound when an instrument is not connected.

 

I knew by then what to do, open the guitar.

And correctly, this is what had happend to it:

 

Now, I have only had same thing on an other guitar, and that was my Viking. But it's older than my Epi.

 

So.. is it normal that they come off like this? Not sure it was a bad soldering job, but when I soldered it back on,

the sound level had actually increased, maybe because I did the correct thing and add solder to both the wire and the ground on the guitar jack.

I also cleaned it off before soldering.

 

I think on saturday, I'm going to go and get all new cables for it and replace the old ones. Might be a good idéa.

[brianh]

Very common. When you tighten the nut, it's easy for the jack to turn, and one or both of the conductors twists off.

 

It's a good idea to replace the stock Asian Epi jacks with USA Switchcraft right away - the stock jacks are cheap and the threads strip out easily.

[animalfarm]

Bravo to you on your troubleshooting instincts!

 

Bad solder job, possible - I don't see any traces of solder on the

"left over" wire, thinking the loose jack just "spun around" enough over time

to fray/break the wire one strand at a time. The LESS strands for the signal to

flow thru, the lower the output, which explains why NOW with a good, solid

connnection you have a better signal output!!!

 

Good lesson for all - If you have an electrical component that is loose/spins,

be prepared for a wire breakage unless you tighten it down. IF possible, definitely

take a peek at it looking for broken strands before tightening.

 

[MrSaint]

Would it be better if the diameter of the wire is a bit thicker than the one on right now?

The one from factory is that of an old -80's headphone type (ground and signal). I have seen cables that are shielded better, think that I even might have some still in stock at home.

 

Yeah, might be good to even replace the jack at the same time and go over the rest, just in case..

[animalfarm]

Would it be better if the diameter of the wire is a bit thicker than the one on right now?

The one from factory is that of an old -80's headphone type (ground and signal).

I have seen cables that are shielded better, think that I even might have some still

in stock at home.

 

Yeah, might be good to even replace the jack at the same time and go over the rest, just in case..

 

A shielded multi-conductor cable is always great to use. Just have to bear in mind that

is has to FIT thru the cable routs/holes in the Git, along with all the other wires.

 

I usually use 22 gauge wire for my mods (stay the AWAY from telephone wires).

I actually have used stranded 18 gauge Black wire for my grounds - I ran out of the smaller stuff.

Works just fine.

 

Regarding replacing Factory Parts - a personal choice. If your part dumps on you, by all means

get something better. I still have (other than PUPS) ALL original EPI electronics in my LPs.

I DO clean them on occasion (pots, 3 way switch), and so far, so good. When I see my Factory

part(s) is/are on their last legs, I'll go for the upgrade.

[mbrooks0711]

This is very common. It seems like every other week one of my friends brings me a guitar with the whole "IT JUST WENT DEAD OHMYGOSH IM GONNA DIE!" sort of thing. This usually happens about 15 minutes prior to a gig we are playing and they have no backup. Out comes the Phillips screwdriver and soldering iron and three minutes later we are good to go again. What seems to happen is that if the nuts are not tightened down correctly or there is no nut or lock washer on the INSIDE of the pots/jack then when you "tighten" the nut on the outside you are actually just causing the inside to rotate. When it rotates it puts strain on the wires soldered to it (because most guitar manufacturers won't put more than 1 inch of slack in the length) and then they snap off. It's really no big deal, it just happens over time (periodically tightening the input jack). If I were you I really wouldn't worry about replacing all the wires unless you really want to. Maybe replace that one stretch of wire that snapped off (probably going from your closet pot to the input jack) and leave a little bit of slack in there. Honestly, I'm glad people (at large) don't really understand the concept. It leaves those of us brave enough to use a screwdriver and soldering iron (sarcasm) to buy lots of "broken" guitars for under $100.

[MrSaint]

Thanks for the replies!

 

I was over at the DIY thread and was reading about electrical hum & noise.

There is something I just can't do to get rid of it - the electrical output jack on the wall. It's not grounded.

It would cost me more than I could ask for to get only my flat to be grounded, and then they would have to ground the entire flat (mine that is).

 

When I connect it to a grounded source i.e. in kitchen or bathroom - hum etc. is gone.

I had similar problems when I was building my own strat'. But got the advice to "shield it". However, that was easy, they gave me a list on what to buy and exactly what to do.

 

But the Epi is a bit different, but correct me if I'm wrong, the bridge is grounded, right? I think this would be one project to leave to an expert, but before that - buy some shielded cables. Also, I read that there are guitar cables that can eliminate that "hum". Don't ask me how, I don't know. They are a bit too expensive for my taste however.

 

Right now I'm using a Warwick Rockcable. The one they recommended was VOVOX Link Protect (about $75)..

[brad1]

Over the years I have frequently heard about the switches on Epis crapping out. But I've never had a problem with the 4 Epis I own. I bought my G400 new 4 1/2 years ago, and it still works great. But of course that doesn't mean it won't go out tomorrow. I've had much more trouble with the switches.

 

And Mr. Saint,you should always turn the volume down on your amp before turning it on. It's a good habit to get into.

Welcome to the forum.

[Chiseen]

i have to thank the people who have put these fixes on the forum... they are a great help.

 

I've had an 'dodgy' connection on my Korean Sheraton for ages and finally decided to pluck up the courage to fish the jack input out of the f-hole and replace the part. Armed with a brand new soldering iron and a spare evening.. (I'm not trained in the dark art of molten lead.)

 

The connections were still good but flexible springy metal bit (name?) was bent back through years of use and it was covered in 'gunk'.. like wax.... I gently heated it with the soldering iron and bent it back into shape.

 

I used a pencil eraser to remove the build up and corrosion, then some trusty WD40 and a cotton cloth, to a shine!

 

Good as new. I also remembered to test it before putting it back into position.

 

I used some elastic fishing wire and a paper clip to amke it easy to 'fish' it back into position. The elastic wire was amazing, it literally 'flicked' back into position... I'd set aside a whole evening for this job and it took me 10 minutes!

 

and to think, I nearly paid a pro to fix it!!

[Chiseen]

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