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Whitmore Willy

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Everyone,

I am installing a Gotoh locking bridge on my L.P. Special. It has "starter" slots in the saddles. Now, this is not my first hardware installation...but...something has occurred to me.

 

In the past, I have always filed the saddle slots down to about where the originals were. (very little filing on first two strings, slight bit a the G, progressively deeper on the D,A and low E.

So I got to wondering. Is there a correct depth...and why?

 

What makes me wonder is that even with the most minimal starter slots, all of the strings seem quite secure.

They are not slipping out of the slots. Even hard bends seem to have no effect.

 

What got me to wondering was bridges on acoustic guitars. Yes, the pins usually hold the strings in place. I do not recall, however, many (if any at all) having slots in the bridges.

 

So, once again, What do you think is a correct depth...and why?

All opinions welcome.

 

Willy

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Hey, Willy!

I won't make you dig thru the Tech Tip Archives in the DIY Thread... OR SHOULD I?

Hmmmmmmm..........

 

NAH - StewMac Site, "Trade Secrets". Read entire article (Duh), but this in particular

addresses your question -

 

"File the slot depths so that half of the wound strings sit above the top of the saddles,

and the tops of the unwound strings sit just below the saddle tops".

 

"Are you supposed to SLOT Tune-o-matic Bridge Saddles"?

(AKA - I like my Strings to FALL OFF the Bridge while I play - Duhhhhhh).

http://www.stewmac.com/tsarchive/ts0109.html

 

Cheerio, Old Boy!

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As the Stewmac article says, matching your fingerboard radius would be the "correct" depth for your slots, measured at the underneath of the strings. I tend to check them by eye and feel rather than using something like Stewmac's understring radius gauge. If you don't have nut files (expensive) you can get quite acceptable results with cheaper fine fretsaws or needle files as long as you smooth the slot with fine grit wet & dry later.

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Animalfarm and Vomer,

 

Thanks for the replies.....Guys.

 

AF...A Texan signing out with "Cheerio, Old Boy!" just ain't right. LOL

 

Anyway, I gave this subject considerable research and thought before starting the topic. I checked the links in the DIY as well as all the resources I could find on the net before hand.

 

I know some amount of slotting is necessary to prevent stings from sliding side to side or completely off the saddle.

I am aware that the slots need to be smooth to prevent string breakage.

It makes sense that the bottom of the slots should follow the neck radius.

I am also aware that most pros give the same explanations as to slot depth and how to accomplish it.

 

What no one seems to talk about is why the particular depth.

These are saddles not a nut.

 

Let's just take one of the wound strings as an example.

Why half the sting diameter? Why not 1/8, 1/4, 3/4...etc.

 

If someone said that after years of development it has been determined that 1/2 string depth results in peek resonance frequency for maximum sound transference from string to saddle...

That I could understand.

 

If someone said....They just look better that way. I could give it credence. ("Up Around The Bend"?) Ya, I know, different spelling.

 

So the question remains....Why?

 

Willy

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AF...A Texan signing out with "Cheerio, Old Boy!" just ain't right. LOL

 

I know some amount of slotting is necessary to prevent stings from sliding side to side or completely off the saddle.

I am aware that the slots need to be smooth to prevent string breakage.

It makes sense that the bottom of the slots should follow the neck radius.

I am also aware that most pros give the same explanations as to slot depth and how to accomplish it.

 

What no one seems to talk about is why the particular depth.

So the question remains....Why?

 

Willy

 

How about - "Cheerio, "Y'all"?

 

Your question intrigued me, so - I. too did some research.

Answers were as expected - keeps string from sliding off, V-notch vs rounded notch.

V-notchers feel the strings will eventually make their own "rounded groove". Etc, Etc,

Blah, blah. Match fretboard radius.......

 

So I did some thinking - WHY NOT go back to the beginnings of stringed instruments?

Like a VIOLIN? OK, "WE" went there (see Pic). Answer was no deeper than 1/3 of the string diameter.

HOWEVER, in those days, they weren't dealing with steel strings and bridges, so that was useless.

Looks like there is no DEFINITIVE answer - just keep strings from falling off.

 

TheWABACMachine-1.jpg]

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Animalfarm,

 

Peabody and Sherman....hilarious!

Thanks for doing research. I've continued to do the same.

 

From Elvin Bishop:

 

Travelin' Shoes

The situation is driving me insane

Somebody fetch me my hat and coat

And hand me my walking cane

(CHORUS)

Gotta put on my traveling shoes

 

So...Put on my travelin' shoes yesterday and went to the local guitar shop. Talked to a few "experts".

Looked at a whole lot of guitars.

 

Yup...pretty much came to the same conclusion.

 

I not only wanted the answer to satisfy my own curiosity but, you never know when a member might ask.

I hate to give out misinformation. So many things seem to be "somebody's best estimate".

Nothing wrong with that but I prefer it be backed by some sort reasoning....even if it is simply...

It Looks Better That Way!

 

"Frostio" (it's getting cold up here)

 

Willy

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The answer to your question of WHY, is that when more of the string is exposed at the nut, or bridge saddles, the less chance there is of the string being muted, or CHOKED.

 

Here is a bit of a checklist for nut, or bridge saddle slots.

 

1. The nut slot, or bridge saddle slot, should be rounded on the bottom.

 

2. It should be a couple of thousanths of an inch bigger than the string.

 

3. The wound strings should have about half of the string showing above the top of the nut/bridge.

 

4. The others should be even with the top. This is because most of the string bending is done on the smaller strings, and you want to have them secure in the slot.

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