crust Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 my mail came, dude shipped it in 2 boxes, the first (big box) arrived today. I hope the second (little box), comes tomorrow. Nice case, The Riviera fits perfectly. I seem to have lost my head... hopefully the broken off head stock will come in the mail tomorrow. He sent both items at the same time, in separate boxes, so no more damage would happen. I have the USPS tracking number if not and was surprised both items didn't arrive together. I got my fingers crossed nothing bad happened. Nice looking guitar, shame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g6120 Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 You know its seems there are a few Casinos that run into that situation and it must be because the neck is narrow and cant stand much stress ? Maybe there are a lot of owners of those instruments that have bad luck or they are careless . Every time I take out my Casino or my ES 330 I'm always very careful to where it goes once its out of my hands . Anyway hope your project turns out well and be rewarding for you when its completed best of luck . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crust Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 sad, and happy at the same time. I found my head. I will bring to my luthier on March 9 (next pay day). I did trade in the Fender GDEC Jr. and got a G-DEC 3-15 (was $150.00 more than the Jr.). My budget is tapped until next month. I guess I have enough guitars to act as a diversion until then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crust Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 I'm also going to build a prototype "baby mama" electric that we have been working on as another diversion. If this works OK, I have enough wood for 6 or 7 more body's. 1 1/2" thick plank. I might glue a couple plank pieces together and make a full size LP too. I am going to get a "Mighty Mite" neck "bolt on" (without mounting holes)neck, cut a key slot/channel into the neck heel and the pocket of the guitar body, install a "key" and contour the neck and body prior to gluing all 3 pieces (neck, key and body) together. I'm thinking I'll get some primer and some car paint. I think purple sparkle chameleon might look OK on this little guitar.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crust Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 I'm also going to build a prototype "baby mama" electric that we have been working on as another diversion. If this works OK, I have enough wood for 6 or 7 more body's. 1 1/2" thick plank. I might glue a couple plank pieces together and make a full size LP too. I am going to get a "Mighty Mite" neck "bolt on" (without mounting holes)neck, cut a key slot/channel into the neck heel and the pocket of the guitar body, install a "key" and contour the neck and body prior to gluing all 3 pieces (neck, key and body) together. I'm thinking I'll get some primer and some car paint. I think purple sparkle chameleon might look OK on this little guitar.. Also, I need some help designing a bridge/saddle for this "flat top". Here are a scan of a few ideas I have for a bridge/saddle. I don't think I will put an "intoneateable" bridge on the first one. here are a few ideas I have for now for the bridge saddle. this "thru body" screw might work without a bridge/ saddle (I could adjust the string height, not the intonation). or this in conjunction with the screw. Still thinking of other ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vomer Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 "purple sparkle chameleon" why does that sound sooo good? And what kind of wood is that? My only thought about those bridge designs is that it might not be comfortable resting the heel of your hand on them. I think the screw idea would probably look cool, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitmore Willy Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Crust, Just my 2 cents.... I like being able to intonate. In any case, don't forget to give yourself a way to ground the bridge/strings. Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crust Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 I'm not sure what wood it is, maybe maple ? It's just a plank that was in the basement. I have another one about the same size and a board about 6 feet long. This is just a fun little winter time project for me to work on. I'm going over my 87 year old pappy's place. He has all the woodworking tools I need at his place and he wants to help me (he was a registered professional electro/mechanical design engineer in his younger years). so, I will slowly build this. ya, I thought the "long screw" idea might make a good "saddle/bridge" combo. I might not even need a bridge/saddle if the screw thing works OK. I have to do some research as to where the "breakout" points would be for close intonation. I also have to get a vernier caliper so that very exacting measurements can be made. My oldest kid works in a machine shop. He has all the tools I need. He said if this works OK, he would reverse engineer the body on the Zeiss CMM (co-ordinate mesuring machine) and write a program to machine the body on a machining center. He is a machinist/engineer/programmer and will be making all the prototype parts I need for the initial design experiments. I'm thinking a wide saddle and bridge (the entire width of the body) might be better than "string thru" screws/bolts. Maybe give it more sustain, particularly because the body is so small. I wont know until it's complete. Maybe I'll make 1 each way and see which sounds better. I will round off and contour the bridge/saddle better. These are just my initial ideas. Mighty Mite necks are about $150, not too bad. I can swing one of those every couple months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crust Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 Crust, Just my 2 cents.... I like being able to intonate. In any case, don't forget to give yourself a way to ground the bridge/strings. Willy Ya, I'm going to show my design to the luthier that will work on the Casino. He has been very helpful to me in the past, gives out tips and "electrical details" freely, so I have 2 "engineers" (well 3 if you count my meager engineering skills)and a machinist to work with. Thanks for the tip. I think It will be grounded to the "tail pin" which I think will be a "plug in" style so I can plug the 1/4" male cable plug right into the very end of the guitar. Also, just an on off toggle switch with one "mini" pick up. In keeping with the "baby" size. I think that might work OK. I was also thinking of getting an intoneateable "nut" so the intonation can be set at the nut, not the bridge saddles. I have to find an intoneateable nut now, if they are even made (I think they are). I need to get the neck, see what the fretboard radius is and make a saddle, or a template, so any "saddle" (even the screw heights) are the same as the neck radius. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crust Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 I'm not sure what wood it is, maybe maple ? It's just a plank that was in the basement. I have another one about the same size and a board about 6 feet long. This is just a fun little winter time project for me to work on. I'm going over my 87 year old pappy's place. He has all the woodworking tools I need at his place and he wants to help me (he was a registered professional electro/mechanical design engineer in his younger years). So, I will slowly build this. ya, I thought the "long screw" idea might make a good "saddle/bridge" combo. I might not even need a bridge/saddle if the screw thing works OK. I have to do some research as to where the "breakout" points would be for close intonation. I also have to get a vernier caliper so that very exacting measurements can be made. My oldest kid works in a machine shop. He has all the tools I need. He said if this works OK, he would reverse engineer the body on the Zeiss CMM (co-ordinate mesuring machine) and write a program to machine the body on a machining center. He is a machinist/engineer/programmer and will be making all the prototype parts I need for the initial design experiments. I'm thinking a wide saddle and bridge (the entire width of the body) might be better than "string thru" screws/bolts. Maybe give it more sustain. I wont know until it's complete. Maybe i'll make 1 each way and see which sounds better. I will round off and contour the bridge/saddle better. These are just my initial ideas. Mighty Mite necks are about $150, not too bad. I can swing one of those every couple months. Well, how did I do that. LOLOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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